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Both.By this, do you mean an edge with a more acute angle rather than a blade which is thinner behind the edge?
Both.By this, do you mean an edge with a more acute angle rather than a blade which is thinner behind the edge?
Thanks.Both.
For sure that salesman sells up to 64k. On poly boards I don't go anyfurther than 2k. But I'm quite aware we live in different worlds.Schwartz'd to 64000 grit.
i stop at 3k for carbon, 1k for stainless.
I have noticed a few members saying that they stick to lower grits for their stainless like a 1k. Can you help me understand why that is the case? Thanks!
I assume that Aus8 and similar steels at 58 HRC would also fall into the "too soft to polish past 1k" category? What about Aus10, VG10 and gin3 at say 61 HRC?
Thanks.I find Aus8 to do just fine with higher refinement. I take my wife's Suisin western knives to 3k and they hold a nice edge well enough. Actually, that is about 3k as I finish on an aoto.
Does this mean that for 19c27, G3 (and presumably VG10) you use around a 1k edge deburred on 3-5k?I believe it has to do with carbide size. Sandvik's 19c27 -- used in Misono's UX-10 -- and its Japanese answer Ginsanko-3 are made to provide a toothy edge. For sure you will need fine stones to get rid of the burr, but looking for a high polish makes no sense here, IMHO. Do that with AEB-L or so.
Does this mean that for 19c27, G3 (and presumably VG10) you use around a 1k edge deburred on 3-5k?
Do you sharpen AEBL (presuming a good HT) like a carbon steel?
Thanks. I'm going to give 1k edge, 3k deburr a go next sharpening on Aus8 or Gin.For sure. I want to enhance existing qualities. No polishing for coarse steels, fine polishing with fine stuff.
Thanks. I'm going to give 1k edge, 3k deburr a go next sharpening on Aus8 or Gin.
Grab something like a Vic, sharpen it at 12deg/side or so, then strop in a micro-bevel at 25-30/side with a 6K stone. I think you'l be surprised at what it will do.
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