Monosteel western handle Gyuto discussion thread
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I think I want ginga. Had Kato workhorse choil shot 
https://www.yuisenri.com/products/yuuraku-white-yodeba?variant=2279803650076
https://www.yuisenri.com/products/yuuraku-white-yodeba?variant=2279803650076
And a Togashi winter Honyaki spineI think I want ginga. Had Kato workhorse choil shot
https://www.yuisenri.com/products/yuuraku-white-yodeba?variant=2279803650076
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My Misono 165. If any damage occurs, it's so easily restored.
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You could debone a full grown dragon with that thing and not get a single chip I bet.
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And after a few strokes on BB chopping parsley again without bruising.
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Spine at heel 1.8,
Spine halfway 1.4
Spine 1cm from tip 0.5mm
166g
250 mmx 47.5mm
Almost like a hook grind, there's a mini shinogi, great food release, glides through food too due to thinness, not much sticking. Steel is harder, doesn't respond to bending unlike almost every other japanese monosteel I've had . Maybe harder? I had to use a chisel hammer, because the bending sticks didn't work. Feels like SK sort of thing. Had a lot of recurves when I got it
Spine halfway 1.4
Spine 1cm from tip 0.5mm
166g
250 mmx 47.5mm
Almost like a hook grind, there's a mini shinogi, great food release, glides through food too due to thinness, not much sticking. Steel is harder, doesn't respond to bending unlike almost every other japanese monosteel I've had . Maybe harder? I had to use a chisel hammer, because the bending sticks didn't work. Feels like SK sort of thing. Had a lot of recurves when I got it
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The brand has other makers it look likes, different style of gyuto
Ended up getting a 270 kogetsu. Quite different from the 300. Shorter and thinner overall. Still plenty of convexity and could probably be thinner behind the edge but works great as is. Very very happy with it. Will see how long the sticker lasts...
You already lost 2 of them!
Fortunately those two were intentional.You already lost 2 of them!
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The larger one makes me wonder about the curve in handle and spine. Far from uncommon. I know it from Misono, Suien and others. What's the idea?
These videos popped up in my feed...
Jovidah
I'll make you a sponsor offer you can't refuse...
Sadly not how they perform out of the box (mine certainly didn't). As mentioned in the video description he spent quite some time thinning them.
But they are definitly great 'blank slates' if you're willing to put in the time. Would go for the 240 though if you want to go down that road; the 210 and 180 have very low blade height.
But they are definitly great 'blank slates' if you're willing to put in the time. Would go for the 240 though if you want to go down that road; the 210 and 180 have very low blade height.
Looking forward to hear your thought, it’s a series I’m confident to recommend to anyone
Jovidah
I'll make you a sponsor offer you can't refuse...
I just wished it didn't have the ugly logo and text on it. Carbonext is more elegant in that regard.
The Hattori line is even worse; it still has the old KF forum logo on it from over a decade ago... I guess no one ever gave Koki the heads up he should take it off? But it bothers me enough to not buy the knife...
Also, I think ES is a bit of a misnomer? Basically what they do is put a steeper bevel on it, so the main result isn't so much that it has a better edge but that it's somewhat thinner behind the edge.
The Hattori line is even worse; it still has the old KF forum logo on it from over a decade ago... I guess no one ever gave Koki the heads up he should take it off? But it bothers me enough to not buy the knife...
Also, I think ES is a bit of a misnomer? Basically what they do is put a steeper bevel on it, so the main result isn't so much that it has a better edge but that it's somewhat thinner behind the edge.
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The main advantage of the ES is in showing how to sharpen a strongly asymmetric blade.
Question...
In terms of thinning and blade work and what you prefer working on, how do you stack up mono SK to shirogami to aogami to stainless?
Not concerned with aesthetics or rehabilitating looks after work. Just performance focused stuff.
In terms of thinning and blade work and what you prefer working on, how do you stack up mono SK to shirogami to aogami to stainless?
Not concerned with aesthetics or rehabilitating looks after work. Just performance focused stuff.
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It's essentially about abrasion resistance. The usual suspects, with large chromium carbides, are little fun: Krupp's 4116, Chromova by Global, soft stainless cladding. Not only slow, but loading your stone, and a gummy feeling.
Good VG-10 is quite abrasion resistant. But not unpleasant. Start coarse.
As for the carbons, the differences are very small. Aogami Super may take a bit more time than others. Take a coarser stone to start with. Can't say I've ever noticed much difference between a C60 Sab @56Rc and an Aogami#2 @62Rc.
Stainless with small carbides, AEB-L, 14C28N aren't very different from carbons in this respect. With a poor HT AEB-L may feel gummy as well.
As you see, it's not that different from what you experience when sharpening.
Thanks buddy that's about what I figured. Some of those mono shirogami's and aogami's are enticing.
Like this one from @JBroida: https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/collections/gyuto/products/suien-vc-210mm-gyuto
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I have its larger brother, the 240, and it's a favourite. Came from Japan though, with a chisel grind edge. Changed it in a more common one, and did some thinning. No problem at all. If you order with JKI I guess you get it sharpened.
Man, this is 1000% accurate!
I just colored my bevels and did some light work on the BBW and was shocked at the angles! I guessed the right side would be low but I had no idea just how low. Maybe around 5 or 6 degrees. The left is probably in the 10-12ish range.
The ES option really gives a good educational visual.
