New Takedas coming

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I sold my Takeda gyuto on this forum basically because I didn't like that dead flat edge. Not sure now when I bought it but it was several years ago at the Atlanta Blade directly from Takeda. By the way, that knife went missing between me and another forum member in the USPS system. So if you see one cheap at a flea market or something-----
 
mkriggen said:
I love BKF, but I'm betting that with regular use it would thin out any KU finish out there
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BKF works just fine. I doubt it will harm the finish unless you make a thick paste and scrub aggressively.
 
I really don't know what the issue is. On all my Takeda knives, the hagane is more reactive than the jigane. Even the exposed cladding on the bevel is just not reactive. The core Aogami Super steel oxidizes far sooner than the cladding. I'm left with a nice blue hagane, and the cladding still looks kasumi grey.
 
Here you go. Very mild reactivity of the iron cladding while the patina forms on the blade. I've seen some horribly reactive iron claddings (the cheap Tojiro Shirogami line comes to mind as it rusts immediately). The Takeda iron is on the opposite end of the spectrum. The Aogami Super oxidizes faster than the cladding. Whatever Shosui is using for the cladding is very resistant to oxidation. Other owners of a Takeda should chime in. The utility value is always the opinion of the user, but I prefer the old kurouchi badass look as well as the lower price.

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The standard cladding is quite on the unreactive side for me as well. Definitely a hassle-free line of carbon knives.
 
Takeda changed the cladding several years ago. Because older Takeda cladding does seem quite reactive based on photographs I have seen.
 
bkdc said:
Takeda changed the cladding several years ago. Because older Takeda cladding does seem quite reactive based on photographs I have seen.
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I wasn't going to bother posting given how frequently I'm told I don't know what I'm talking about on this forum but your post would lead me to believe all of my Takeda knives are the older cladding. Very reactive and I have polished most of the black off of them over the years with various cleansers. So how long ago do you think "several years" was? I haven't bought anything off Takeda since his prices about doubled a while back.
 
Noodle Soup said:
I wasn't going to bother posting given how frequently I'm told I don't know what I'm talking about on this forum but your post would lead me to believe all of my Takeda knives are the older cladding. Very reactive and I have polished most of the black off of them over the years with various cleansers. So how long ago do you think "several years" was? I haven't bought anything off Takeda since his prices about doubled a while back.
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I really don't know. I just know that my particular knives don't react like some of the Takeda photos I've seen with plenty of brown oxidation showing up on the cladding. But none of my Takedas are older than.. probably 2 years old. For those who have previously had a rusty experience with Takeda knives, having a stainless cladding would sound reassuring.

I left my knife soaking in onion juice for 30 minutes trying to induce a patina, but the color barely budged. I may have to use some hot vinegar to really prove that this cladding is oxidation resistant.
 
nice pic to show the blade wear/reactivity. I would expect the black/burnt finish to be the thing helping you bkdc, but you def have enough wear via use that a major patina/rust could occur. Can someone explain how that burnt black finish is made or the technical name? It's on a lot of my tools and I don't even know anything about it haha

hot vinegar may help sway the populace! I can understand why Takeda doesn't really want to make two dif lines of knives..

Nice edge too!
 
there are quite a few ways it is done... i japan, the most common you see is residual scale from forging/HT
 
I looked at knife wear last night and the 270's were sold out. but of coarse I didn't email them.
 
Stainless is too new they aren't on the site yet, call and ask for one. I talked to a guy named Jeffery excellent service.

Crothcipt said:
I looked at knife wear last night and the 270's were sold out. but of coarse I didn't email them.
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Aphex said:
Here's a pic of the stainless takeda's

2s8hjja.jpg
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so stainless kurouchi finish? this is the first time ive heard of this. anybody else heard of this? im i misunderstanding this, is there even a functional purpose for stainless kurouchi?
 
Recall these? It is for a darn cool look, mainly, I think. Although, I have fallen for it and got one from Heiji himself.

heiji_kurouchi_damascus_animation_4-1-12.gif

611-5.jpg
 
from a functional standpoint, wouldnt one of the main purposes of Kurouchi finish be to minimize reactivity? if so, just having kurouchi on a stainless clad knife would be for aesthetics only im guessing? nice looking heijis!
 
I thought a 'nashiji' finish was typical after forging stainless. Unless there's some anti-stick property of the finish, it would be cosmetic. Based on the picture, it appears that the hammer marks are visible on the stainless Takeda.
 
WillC. has made some too.
Beyond being a protective layer, I think kurouchi is cool because it reduces sticking both because of the finish and because of the slight variations in the forged surface. I have respect for the skill that goes into grinding / stock removal method of shaping a blade, but I think that doing it with just was a hammer is even cooler.
 
kasumi & migaki(polish) finished require more time/process to do then kurouchi finished. stainless with kurouchi finished will keep cost down.....I think......not 100% sure....
many people like kurouchi looking but hate kurouchi rough/rusty finished & will peel off/discolor overtime....... kurouchi Damascus solve this problem, basically just for aesthetics only!
@schanop, FYI, top picture is from Heiji, bottom picture is Yoshikane SLD
 
Any info on the ID of the stainless core?
 
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