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Ok__mode_6953 said:
289g of sheer Mazaki 😍

B#1 custom from Ikkyu. I gave it a little spa treatment by polishing off the spine and choil to 400 grit - may take it to 800 at some point if I can be bothered.

Unfortunately there was a minor casualty with the handle on install due to some overenthusiastic burning in - tips on the best way to seal these cracks up and get the superglue/epoxy etc to penetrate are welcome. I have some of the tang slot filings ready to mix with the sealant to get an invisible finish.

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Beeswax or boardwax combo and hope they don't get worse. I think you'll be fine.
 
Ok__mode_6953 said:
289g of sheer Mazaki 😍

B#1 custom from Ikkyu. I gave it a little spa treatment by polishing off the spine and choil to 400 grit - may take it to 800 at some point if I can be bothered.

Unfortunately there was a minor casualty with the handle on install due to some overenthusiastic burning in - tips on the best way to seal these cracks up and get the superglue/epoxy etc to penetrate are welcome. I have some of the tang slot filings ready to mix with the sealant to get an invisible finish.

Click to expand...

Dibs
 
Ok__mode_6953 said:
289g of sheer Mazaki 😍

B#1 custom from Ikkyu. I gave it a little spa treatment by polishing off the spine and choil to 400 grit - may take it to 800 at some point if I can be bothered.

Unfortunately there was a minor casualty with the handle on install due to some overenthusiastic burning in - tips on the best way to seal these cracks up and get the superglue/epoxy etc to penetrate are welcome. I have some of the tang slot filings ready to mix with the sealant to get an invisible finish.

Click to expand...


Hot damn 🥺🥺
 
Corradobrit1 said:
Beeswax or boardwax combo and hope they don't get worse. I think you'll be fine.
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Melted beeswax would do a great job penetrating the cracks and sealing it up, but I assumed having some kind of glue/epoxy bond would be beneficial for strength.

The tang was getting stuck half way in prior to burning in, so i've learnt my lesson about how much I get get away with there...
 
Sawdust and epoxy-mix can seal and blend in. Don’t know if this helps you and how much sawdust you can find that matches you handle.

Personally I would make or buy a new handle.
Swing by Copenhagen and I’ll fix it for you 😂
 
Uncle Danny said:
Don’t know if this helps you and how much sawdust you can find that matches you handle.
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I have two other ebony handles that need filing out, so sawdust is plentiful! Do you have any tips for getting the mixture into the cracks?

I would knock it off but it's brand new and seems a waste if I can salvage it!
 
Would just use something like a wooden ice cream stick and jam it in, and wipe as clean as you can - you’re going to have to resand the handle anyway.
 
daddy yo yo said:
Isamitsu AS 241 / 53 / 226.6g with Mulberry handle

Shown with a red handled Denka 244 / 54 / 253g for obvious reasons.

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That Isamitsu is pure fire brother. Congrats!👍❤️🔥
 
Rader came in today and is as beautiful as the pictures. Ironically, I also bought a Damascus style I asked Mike to do but he didn't have the right tools now. A rising up and comer, ABS Apprentice Jordan Buckley. My favorite style of Damascus, feather:
 

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Ok__mode_6953 said:
289g of sheer Mazaki 😍

B#1 custom from Ikkyu. I gave it a little spa treatment by polishing off the spine and choil to 400 grit - may take it to 800 at some point if I can be bothered.

Unfortunately there was a minor casualty with the handle on install due to some overenthusiastic burning in - tips on the best way to seal these cracks up and get the superglue/epoxy etc to penetrate are welcome. I have some of the tang slot filings ready to mix with the sealant to get an invisible finish.

Click to expand...

You can CA glue and sand back smooth. If you try to make a paste with epoxy and sawdust you won't get much in there.
 
Ok__mode_6953 said:
289g of sheer Mazaki 😍

B#1 custom from Ikkyu. I gave it a little spa treatment by polishing off the spine and choil to 400 grit - may take it to 800 at some point if I can be bothered.

Unfortunately there was a minor casualty with the handle on install due to some overenthusiastic burning in - tips on the best way to seal these cracks up and get the superglue/epoxy etc to penetrate are welcome. I have some of the tang slot filings ready to mix with the sealant to get an invisible finish.

Click to expand...

I have used CA glue on some vintage knives with cracks in the handle. Works well. Then sandpaper and your finisher of choice (tung oil, beeswax + mineral oil, etc)
 
JPAU said:
Any recommendations on mineral oils and bees wax? Any idea what Japanese makers like Taihei use?
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mmm good question about Taihei. Not sure what they use, feels like some sort of lacquer? Not beeswax or tung oil for sure…

I do a homemade mix of beeswax and mineral oil. 1:4 ratio, just heat everything in a small pan (low heat) until the beeswax is melted and mix everything together. Pour onto a glass container while it’s still hot. I use drugstore mineral oil sold as a laxative and got the beeswax at a farmers market.

Or buy some board butter, plenty available online. It’s usually a mix of beeswax, mineral oil and some other good stuff.
 
Have you tried that axe wax I keep seeing everywhere? If I can avoid creating a proprietary blend that’d be ideal! I accidentally stripped a tiny bit of whatever coating was in my Taihei off (not completely stripped but is uniform) when applying acetone to remove lacquer. It feels 90% like my brand new Taihei but just want to resell it to be certain
 
tostadas said:
You can CA glue and sand back smooth. If you try to make a paste with epoxy and sawdust you won't get much in there.
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I tried the epoxy/sawdust method yesterday and unfortunately the majority was just surface level, I’ll give this a shot next.

@tostadas @Choppin do you use ultra thin or just thin CA? It looks as though the former is better for deeper penetration, but the latter is good for filling gaps.

Here’s how the handle is looking currently for reference after a failed epoxy and sawdust attempt yesterday (don’t mind the curing tung oil).

IMG_1542.jpeg
 
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Ok__mode_6953 said:
I tried the epoxy/sawdust method yesterday and unfortunately the majority was just surface level, I’ll give this a shot next.

@tostadas @Choppin do you use ultra thin or just thin CA? It looks as though the former is better for deeper penetration, but the latter is good for filling gaps.

Here’s how the handle is looking currently for reference after a failed epoxy and sawdust attempt yesterday (don’t mind the curing tung oil).

View attachment 310534
Click to expand...
I use ultra thin to fill deep cracks / gaps, like on vintage Sabatier knives that often come with deeper voids.

For this specific use, I'd try regular CA, or just thin. It's easier to use - ultra thin is messier as it runs everywhere before settling. And the crack here looks more superficial.

Also, maybe better to wait for the tung oil to dry before applying CA (like 48h?).
 
JPAU said:
Have you tried that axe wax I keep seeing everywhere? If I can avoid creating a proprietary blend that’d be ideal! I accidentally stripped a tiny bit of whatever coating was in my Taihei off (not completely stripped but is uniform) when applying acetone to remove lacquer. It feels 90% like my brand new Taihei but just want to resell it to be certain
Click to expand...
I haven't really tried it, but looks solid. Probably beeswax mixed with other oils. The fact that it fully hardens is a plus IMO, probably has some carnaúba in there for the hardening.
 
Choppin said:
I use ultra thin to fill deep cracks / gaps, like on vintage Sabatier knives that often come with deeper voids.

For this specific use, I'd try regular CA, or just thin. It's easier to use - ultra thin is messier as it runs everywhere before settling. And the crack here looks more superficial.

Also, maybe better to wait for the tung oil to dry before applying CA (like 48h?).
Click to expand...
Good pointers, thanks!
 
Ok__mode_6953 said:
I tried the epoxy/sawdust method yesterday and unfortunately the majority was just surface level, I’ll give this a shot next.

@tostadas @Choppin do you use ultra thin or just thin CA? It looks as though the former is better for deeper penetration, but the latter is good for filling gaps.

Here’s how the handle is looking currently for reference after a failed epoxy and sawdust attempt yesterday (don’t mind the curing tung oil).

View attachment 310534
Click to expand...
I would use medium thickness.
 
When I really like something repeat buy. I'm sure not alone on this. Since bought mono steel Bradford magnacut one of most used knives. That & Yoshi SKD.

Looking for custom Magnacut saw a lot of what didn't want. Wanted plain satin finish mono steel. Found this one.
Gabriel Mabry former Marine, Chef, resturant owner. Started making knives on grandfather's large anvil. Won 2017 Forged in Fire. Bought from Epicurean Edge.

Only one with desert ironwood handle tall flat geometry for push cuts & chopping. Other favorite Yoshi skd I put a wa ironwood. Bradford magnacut & Yoshi SKD got a new friend.
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AFKitchenknivesguy said:
Rader came in today and is as beautiful as the pictures. Ironically, I also bought a Damascus style I asked Mike to do but he didn't have the right tools now. A rising up and comer, ABS Apprentice Jordan Buckley. My favorite style of Damascus, feather:
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Jordan, makes a great knife and at still a very good price. I think if you reach out direct you could knock another chunk off the price vs EE
 
Molokai Livin' said:
I got this in a couple days ago. Lucid k-tip, 243x57, 294g. I love the aesthetics and it feels great in hand. Although I haven’t used it yet, I have two other Lucid’s, so I know it’ll perform great. My other Lucids are a gyuto and bunka, so thought I’d add a k-tip.

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amazing pick up, Lucid may put a bigger smile on my face than any other knife I own. I just got added to his custom list for a Nakiri
 
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