Stone for thinning

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I moved to a sandpaper camp. I do not thin that much, but when I need a substancial thinning I use dry sandpaper glued onto the back side of the Atoma plate. Just watch out for the blade heating, it can get very hot very fast.
For the same reason, stay away from the edge!
 
I have limited experience with thinning, but it seems that good stones remain hard to find, especially since they are always a compromise between cutting, wear resistance, feedback... Obviously, stainless knives are even more resistant to abrasion, so I'm not sure if my suggestions will be relevant (I thin mostly carbon steels), but If it can help, I've had good results with the following stones:
-JNS 220: is expensive, but the best I had so far.so
-Shapton Glass 220 is cheaper, feels harder, but feedback wasn't great, if this is important to you. (Can be found her for 43€:https://www.knivesandtools.fr/fr/pt...lDCV82bBZMmEjjJvtHXbcjr-IsWCAR0AaAoxWEALw_wcB)
- Shapton pro 220 feels better, but is softer/dishes more easily (40€ here: https://www.knivesandtools.fr/fr/pt...n-220-coarse-pierre-a-aiguiser-moss-k0706.htm)
-Debado 180 (56€ here: https://hiomakivi.fi/en/p37253/suehiro-debado-ld-21-180)
-Aroto 220 (45€ here: https://hiomakivi.fi/en/p37166/imanishi-arato-220) was recommended by @milangravier in one of his video.
-The naniwa suggested earlier is even cheaper (28€ here: https://www.dictum.com/fr/pierres-a...sir-naniwa-traditional-stone-grain-220-711350)
Hope it helps!
 
Norton crystolon coarse (120).

Can also rec6the debado 200. The 220 "pink brick" also comes well regarded, I look forward to trying it out in the future.
 
I haven't tried many low grit stones, the fastest was a SP120 but I felt it was significantly slower than Cubitron paper. Are you using it wet or dry? Dry is where you get the real speed advantage, but again, it's super messy and you really need a dedicated space to do it in.
Why does it get messy?
I planned to do it above the sink actually.
And what about loading, what exactly is that, how do I ‘unload/clean’ an India stone?
Also at what angle should I set the edge after thinning? Since it’s a soft steel, should I do like 15 degrees per side and a microbevel of like 30 per side?
 
@Sas Water or oil trap particles quite effectively. Dry will let dust get into the air and spread around.
Stones are easily conditioned and cleaned with loose silicon carbide grit on a sacrificial hard surface (float glass, granite tile, synthetic stone countertop cut-off), as below form Stefan Wolf (RIP). Did you look at the Zandstra FOSS stone? It is like a Crystolon but better for water.

 
You're going to thin those German knives like one time. I'm a fan of coarse stones but they are limited in usefulness as you move up in knife quality.

I still say to jus use sandpaper to get your German knives fixed up a little and invest in one or two good mid-grit stones that will serve you well when you jump deeper into Japanese knives. A Shapton Glass 500 will take you a long ways, even with the German knives. You could put $100 into a stone holder, a stone, and one decent but inexpensive knife.

Also, coarse stones tend to dish quickly. That's another aspect you'll need to deal with and that isn't so easy on those stones.
 
You're going to thin those German knives like one time. I'm a fan of coarse stones but they are limited in usefulness as you move up in knife quality.

I still say to jus use sandpaper to get your German knives fixed up a little and invest in one or two good mid-grit stones that will serve you well when you jump deeper into Japanese knives. A Shapton Glass 500 will take you a long ways, even with the German knives. You could put $100 into a stone holder, a stone, and one decent but inexpensive knife.

Also, coarse stones tend to dish quickly. That's another aspect you'll need to deal with and that isn't so easy on those stones.
I can get a zandstra voss for around 20,- that is lightly used and vintage, what do you think about that?
 
I can get a zandstra voss for around 20,- that is lightly used and vintage, what do you think about that?

I think that's 10% of the budget you posted in another thread. Doesn't sound like a bad deal but let me ask you, what are you going to use it for after you do this thinning project?
 
I think that's 10% of the budget you posted in another thread. Doesn't sound like a bad deal but let me ask you, what are you going to use it for after you do this thinning project?
Well I’m not very sure of the grits on both sides, closest guesses are 120&320, which indeed would just be for thinning (perhaps grinding away choils) of like 2 chef knives and 1 carving knife and any future thinning jobs.
 
Well I’m not very sure of the grits on both sides, closest guesses are 120&320, which indeed would just be for thinning (perhaps grinding away choils) of like 2 chef knives and 1 carving knife and any future thinning jobs.
And then I could get another stone (shapton 1K was often recommended, although I wouldn’t mind another combination stone of like 800/2000 perhaps
 
Okay so they aren't "German" knives, they're Chinese.

You do what you want, I can only tell you what I would do and that is not bother with those knives. I might take some sandpaper to the shoulders but that's about it. 5Cr is soft steel.

I absolutely would not buy a stone specifically to work on them.

I would set my sights on one or two good stones, a flattening stone, and decent knife.
 
320. (45,-)
1K (50,-)
1,5K (50,-)
2K (50,-)

But all not in stock atm
C2899600-CC4A-4A90-8E48-77C7EA8C370F.png
 
Okay so they aren't "German" knives, they're Chinese.

You do what you want, I can only tell you what I would do and that is not bother with those knives. I might take some sandpaper to the shoulders but that's about it. 5Cr is soft steel.

I absolutely would not buy a stone specifically to work on them.

I would set my sights on one or two good stones, a flattening stone, and decent knife.
I see, the thing is I thought I could use them as project knife to learn on you know, learn about thinning etc, I found a Zandstra that is like 15,- shipped, that would also be useful for future thinning of better knives no?
And then I can get a nice mid grit stone and a knife perhaps? Or save for a better knife maybe not sure tbh
 
I see, the thing is I thought I could use them as project knife to learn on you know, learn about thinning etc, I found a Zandstra that is like 15,- shipped, that would also be useful for future thinning of better knives no?
And then I can get a nice mid grit stone and a knife perhaps? Or save for a better knife maybe not sure tbh

They will suck to thin.
 
I would recommend saving your money towards higher quality stones.

If you want to practice thinning sh!t stainless, just go to a hardware store and buy an actual brick.

 
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I would recommend saving your money towards higher quality stones.

If you want to practice thinning sh!t stainless, just go to a hardware store and buy an actual brick.


You think a brick would be flat enough? What grit do you think it would be? Im happy to do that lol :)
So you think the zandstra is not a quality stone?
 
You think a brick would be flat enough? What grit do you think it would be? Im happy to do that lol :)
So you think the zandstra is not a quality stone?

Flat enough for a cheap knife, and frankly, likely flatter than I keep my coarse stone.

Coarse.

What sort of results are you looking for?

I have no experience with Zandstra or any other skate stones but I definitely am not poopooing them. If you are concerned about learning and practicing the motions, any stone will do.

If you are on a tight budget, i would recommend against getting something that you will replace down the road. Obviously i dont know your situation, so if you are looking for a short-medium term solution, @Mr.Wizard is giving you a solution that they have had positive experience on and is closer to your price range.

I dont know how much they go for in your area, but Shaptons are not terribly expensive and can be a last purchase (until used up).

I did the "buy the bootleg versions" of things, and ultimately wasted a bunch of money. YMMV
 
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You think a brick would be flat enough? What grit do you think it would be? Im happy to do that lol :)
So you think the zandstra is not a quality stone?
There are only a few stone makers in the world. Zandstra is none of them. They put their name on it and have their margin. With knivesandtools you have the Shapton Glass 320 for €39.
 
I know someone who’s in Japan right now, should I just ask them to bring me a shapton 1K and I buy a brick at a hardware store and that’s it for now? Any ideas where in Japan he could pick one up?
 
There are only a few stone makers in the world. Zandstra is none of them. They put their name on it and have their margin. With knivesandtools you have the Shapton Glass 320 for €39.
Why are you disparaging this? No, Zandstra is not an abrasives company. FOSS used to be, hence the name, but they are out of business. That does not mean that this is not a well made stone at a good price. You get more abrasive by both volume and surface area than the Norton JUM3 at a lower price, and it's set up out of the box to work well with water.

I know someone who’s in Japan right now, should I just ask them to bring me a shapton 1K and I buy a brick at a hardware store and that’s it for now? Any ideas where in Japan he could pick one up?
You don't seriously think a construction brick is going to compare favorably to a purpose made sharpening stone, do you? Just because it can be used with some skill doesn't mean it should be used.

If you want the best cutting soaking stone get the FOSS. If you prefer using oil get the JUM3. If you want a splash-and-go stone get a Shapton 120, but you'll have to buy a second stone to get the equivalent of the fine side of the FOSS or JUM3.
 
I found a Zandstra that is like 15,- shipped, that would also be useful for future thinning of better knives no?
I don't know what you found but it probably is not the No. 7205 FOSS stone. Get the one that is proven if you go this route.
 
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