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Nothing is sacred.

Thinning from 300 grit upwards.

Going to see how nicely it can polish up, but the bevels were tidy and stone ready.
 

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A bit of time later - closer but some way left to go.

Ended up dropping down to the Debado 180 for the first time, which was very satisfying to use!
 

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An update with some thoughts on the grind of #077 after spending some time thinning:

Choil progress:

- I second guessed myself a lot on which parts of the knife needed the most attention. The right hand face of the knife has a lot more core steel exposed than the left, which has cladding running almost up to the edge in some areas, even still after a solid amount of time on the Debado 180. I have spent about 3 hours total on the 180 before breaking for the day.

- Looking at the latest choil shot, there seems to be more meat on the left (i.e. the right hand face of the knife) as you go up the bevel, but it has more core steel exposed than the other side.

- Is that part and parcel of wabi sabi hon warikomi forging, and I should focus on maintaining symmetry by referencing how the choil looks and pinching my fingers down the blade to feel the geometry, or should I be trying to chase even core steel exposure across both blade faces?
- The bevels were largely flat, but that might just be because this knife has been thinned before.
- There is a little bit of wonkiness going on up by the shinogi, with a slightly uneven grind around that area which I tried to correct and even out as I went without chasing it too much. Nothing major, and can be continually worked out with future maintenance thinning.

Current state of the bevels:
 
Wa handle would be better IMO. But this cuts very well. I think the 255mm are the best ones out there. Grind is very nice and comparable to your 255 @Ok__mode_6953.

Would benefit from rounded spine and rounded/tapered handle at the pinch. Should be fun getting to know this one.
 

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Can anybody suggest a good way to remove the patina without damaging the ku? I’m thinking of using Flitz but still wary of how the ku will hold up.
 
Can anybody suggest a good way to remove the patina without damaging the ku? I’m thinking of using Flitz but still wary of how the ku will hold up.
I think Jiro has provided a solution. Masking tape. Helps to maintain that crisp linear Ku line too.
 
If you put tape over that kind of KU, I'd be afraid it will strip the KU when you pull it off.
Shushhhh, we get nasty looks when such aspersions are made. 3M decorators masking tape (the blue stuff) should be fine.
 
https://www.instagram.com/stories/j...rce=ig_story_item_share&igsh=OHlubjY4eWpkd2d3Forget hours and hours of stone work and good forged geometry, tape seems to be the key to a crisp linear KU
The link is dead. The incriminating evidence removed.

How can he claim "No chemicals used" which is disingenuous and downright dishonest. The Ku is painted on the blade and I assume the solution he uses contains chemicals. Clearly chemicals are being used.

The tape obviously does it job
 
I’ll upload mine later today but it’s been a very enjoyable knife.

I did goof up and put it back into the paper blade cover while there was still some moisture present….thus some light rust on the KU

Anyone have any ideas? Very light sandpaper (2000) started to take it off
 
I’ll upload mine later today but it’s been a very enjoyable knife.

I did goof up and put it back into the paper blade cover while there was still some moisture present….thus some light rust on the KU

Anyone have any ideas? Very light sandpaper (2000) started to take it off
You can definitely say goodbye to that Ku finish if you try using an abrasive that strong. Do you have 1500 grit silicon carbide powder? A paste in oil or water will take care of the rust with mild pressure and should help preserve the Ku. Remember light touch needed.
 
You can definitely say goodbye to that Ku finish if you try using an abrasive that strong. Do you have 1500 grit silicon carbide powder? A paste in oil or water will take care of the rust with mild pressure and should help preserve the Ku. Remember light touch needed.
Will give it a shot. I barely touched it with the sandpaper, so no real damage done
 
You can definitely say goodbye to that Ku finish if you try using an abrasive that strong. Do you have 1500 grit silicon carbide powder? A paste in oil or water will take care of the rust with mild pressure and should help preserve the Ku. Remember light touch needed.
Is this a better solution than Flitz?
 
How can he claim "No chemicals used" which is disingenuous and downright dishonest. The Ku is painted on the blade and I assume the solution he uses contains chemicals. Clearly chemicals are being used.

Given the context ("Natural whetstone, hand sharpening finish. No chemicals used."), I suspect he's talking about using nugui or an industrial abrasive solution on the main bevel and indicating he didn't do a powder, buffed, or etched finish.
 
Given the context ("Natural whetstone, hand sharpening finish. No chemicals used."), I suspect he's talking about using nugui or an industrial abrasive solution on the main bevel and indicating he didn't do a powder, buffed, or etched finish.
Curiously he doesn't say 'No chemicals used" in Japanese. Just "Natural whetstone, hand sharpened and finished"
 
The link is dead. The incriminating evidence removed.

How can he claim "No chemicals used" which is disingenuous and downright dishonest. The Ku is painted on the blade and I assume the solution he uses contains chemicals. Clearly chemicals are being used.

The tape obviously does it job

I think the story just expired after 24h, as they do
 
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