How then do the diamonds not abrade the fixer more than vice versa?
What Is Your Go-To Coarse Stone For Heavy Lifting?
- Thread starter HumbleHomeCook
- Start date
Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:
You’re not trying to abrade the diamonds, you’re abrading the resin. It wears down the sic flattener fairly quickly but the flattener is cheap. Something like a sintered diamond plate the diamond resin stone will just rip out the sintered diamonds which then embed in your resin stone to wreak havoc later. And shortly thereafter your diamond plate is useless anyways.
I own the NSK200 flattening plate for my diamond stones and it’s a joke - maybe I got a total dud, but no idea how this product made it out of testing. Laughably bad. Worst sharpening purchase in ages. The 1k flattener on the other hand works great. I don’t know…
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2018
- Messages
- 2,091
- Reaction score
- 4,277
Yeah. If thats what i think it is. I thought it was a really dumb idea as soon as I saw it, and a huge waste of money.
I didn't want to go around trashing it, because I hadn't tried it, and was absolutely not spending my money in it. But seems like the wrong solution.
To me. The best option for diamond stones, is by far loose sic powder. Get one of the sets with 60, 220, 500, and 1200 aluminum oxide on amazon. Then you can use the 500 and 1200 for polishing too. That and buy a floor tile (i find they wear much slower than glass). You can flatten and condition any grit stone with that set.
I also use sic stone fixers, which dont work quite as well. But they do work fine. And is good for quicker touch ups. As well as using different synthetic naguras, depending on the grit of the stone im using. The combo extra coarse and coarse one they have at jki is pretty good for coarse stones. I think suehiro makes it iirc, that or they make one like it.
Them being dishy is what makes them great. They cut anything, and do it fast. Like they mentioned. Theyre so cheap just get another once its done.
Unless its san mai, doing any coarse work on anything harder than a king 220 type stone is just terrible, and even the king 220 can glaze on some harder stuff. Especially if it has some mc, type carbide. Like that aogami 1 i messed with not long ago on the togashi honyakis. That stuff would glaze stones pretty quick.
The softer cladding of a san mai construction is very easy to abrade.
Yep, I use loose sic on tile for flattening on my diamond stones. Don’t need to do it very often at all but periodically. That’s very effective in my experience. I use the sic flattener for on the fly touch ups of surface glazing, which I find it’s more than sufficient for.
Blank will answer for himself I’m sure and I’m not presuming to know his reasons, but in general it’s harder to get decent feedback and engagement on monosteel and honyaki than something san mai when doing bevel work or thinning.
In a polishing context, some of my favorite san mai stones are glassy and awful used on honyaki. Likewise I have a couple stones that are incredible on honyaki and leave a lot to be desired in the way they finish soft cladding.
While polishing isn’t the same and thinning or coarse bevel work, a lot of the principles transfer. I can very much see why someone would have a much better time with a soft stone for a fully hardened blade than a harder stone.
With san mai. Basically you can use the soft cladding to work up a slurry on the stone if it stops cutting.
I dont know the exact physics going on with it. But what I do know, is this does happen. Basically the soft cladding somehow makes a stone release abrasive more easily. So if you are cutting only hard steel, and the stone isn't very soft. It wont release abrasive, and expose fresh abrasive. And glaze over.
So basically if you are working with san mai you can make much harder stones work. And very very soft stones become a bad idea, because they will dish even more than they should and the ammount of slurry will impede cutting.
Also if It's a knife with a bevel the excess slurry build up with roll up the bevel and make your shinogi all hazy or even erode some KU above the shinogi.
My experience has been, hard stones work better with clad knives, especially stainless cladding.
Softer stones work better with mono steel knives.
Softer stones work better with mono steel knives.
Wrong, with stainless cladding you have to try every stone you have and none of them will work well and then you'll go back and whatever one seemed the worst at the start will suddenly work best adding to your headache. At least that's my experience with every TF I've worked...
Do you have a SP 120?
Nope
That stones eats stainless cladding. Also good for grinding the spine for tip repair.
Otherwise it glazes over really easily.
I always thought my shapton 120 was pretty decent. Though at the time i just used it for thinning san mai stuff mostly.
But once it got a slurry going. It cut really well.
I don't get the clown face, that's heckin' perfect!
aporigine
The slow blade penetrates the winter squash
I like the cooling slots for aggressive sharpeners.
MowgFace
Senior Member
Put some drywall screen on that and never buy a stone flattener again
Sounds like Cerax 320, it’s a good stone but I won’t buy another… Constant flattening is not fun
what did you expect for $20?
Is it getting into the range of Coarse India hardness?
