Recent content by SABOL BROTHERS

We like to make them up to 40 mm. Anything above 40 mm feels a little bit weird for a petty.

Is that olive wood on the handle?

K390 is also surprisingly corrosion resistant in the kitchen. You did a low temper on your 10V gyuto, right? Have you also tried 10V with high temper? If yes, is there a big difference in corrosion resistance?

Were any of those edges close to what you can get with diamond stones? Or did they lack the aggressiveness and bite of a diamond/CBN edge?

Just curious, what is the edge angle on this knife? Is it the same on the entire edge length?

Interesting. We strop a lot more than "three strokes per side" and yet we get excellent results and insane sharpness levels, especially on K390.

Anything in Z-Wear/4V/V4E will always be much better than any blue or white paper steel.

Haven't tried Z-Wear yet, but based on Larrin's testing it looks like an amazing steel at around 62 Rc.

So, using a low-toughness steel doesn't make much sense, does it? What about something like 4V/V4E? This is an excellent PM steel that can take a lot of abuse as we can see from Bladesports competitions.

Guys, can someone define a "workhorse" for us briefly? Is it about blade grind? Or is it about steel toughness/edge retention? Or is it something else?

K390 from start to finish. There is no need to use stainless steel even though MagnaCut is really nice.

Flood coolant is a must when you are grinding very thin kitchen knives. They are so easy to overheat on a belt grinder.

Just curious... Do you have water-cooled belt grinder?

Looks good. What's the blade finish?

What's wrong with testing and comparing different grades of steel? Why not compare plain carbon steels, stainless steels, cold work tool steels and high speed steels under the same test conditions and see which steel is the best and most aggressive cutter/slicer?