Beginner technique question

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mikes

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I watched a number of videos on YouTube (links to which I found on this forum) where the person sharpens the knife on a stone on both strokes (away and back)).

I'm trying to create a burr using this technique, but not getting anywhere. Is the person really sharpening on both strokes? If so, doesn't one of the strokes remove the burr?

How much pressure should be applied ?

(BTW, I'm using Shapton 1000 and 2000 pro stones, and I have Victorinox knifes (mostly)).
 
when was the lastt time the knives were sharpened and what angle are you using? I mostly use enough pressure to hold the knife to the stone and guide the stroke, so I'm not really leaning into it. Beginning angle on my Forschner/Victorinox knives (20+ years old) would be in the 20-22* range. IMHO equal pressure applied to both forward and backward strokes is not going to remove a burr on these knives before you feel it. And the 1k stone is fine, but it may take awhile to get to a burr if these knives haven't been sharpened in awhile.
But raise the spine and sharpen at a higher angle.
 
I watched a number of videos on YouTube (links to which I found on this forum) where the person sharpens the knife on a stone on both strokes (away and back)).

I'm trying to create a burr using this technique, but not getting anywhere. Is the person really sharpening on both strokes? If so, doesn't one of the strokes remove the burr?

The burr forms on the side of the blade that is not in contact with the stone, so it would not be affected by the direction of the stroke. What is hard to see in the video is that the pressure used changes with the direction - when the blade is moving spine first (edge trailing), pressure is applied, while only enough pressure to maintain contact with the stone is used on the edge leading movement.

How much pressure should be applied ?

You should let the stone do most of the work, applying light to moderate pressure. Repetition, not pressure, is what does the job. As you work with grits above 4-5k reduce the pressure you use.

(BTW, I'm using Shapton 1000 and 2000 pro stones, and I have Victorinox knifes (mostly)).

As mentioned, if your knives are very dull it may take some time for you to grind the bevel to meet the edge. Use a Magic Marker to color the edge and a loupe to examine what you are doing so that you can see when you have reached the edge. That you are having difficulty raising a burr means that you are either sharpening at too shallow an angle or that you have a lot of work to do.

Rick
 
Rick's advice is spot on. I would further suggest that you pick up a low grit (300 - 500) stone to establish a fresh edge with. Will save you time, wear on your 1K and no doubt some frustration.

The same properties that allow the Vnox to hold a decent edge for awhile will also make it a bear to get started.
 
If you're still a beginner experimenting with freehand sharpening, I would suggest staying away from lower grit stones. You're bound to make mistakes at first, and the coarser the grit - the more those mistakes would affect your blade.
I think your 1k is perfect for a dull Victorinox. I personally put on some mild pressure on the back stroke, and less on the forward stroke (to prevent the blade from cutting into the stone).
At 55-56HRC, which is what most European knives go by, raising a burr on the opposite side of sharpening should be pretty easy.
Perhaps you are raising a burr, but don't quite know how to feel for it?
 
Rick's advice is spot on. I would further suggest that you pick up a low grit (300 - 500) stone to establish a fresh edge with. Will save you time, wear on your 1K and no doubt some frustration.

The same properties that allow the Vnox to hold a decent edge for awhile will also make it a bear to get started.

First off - thanks much for the advice. I'm pretty sure I was using too much pressure overall; I was using too much pressure when moving the blade in the direction of the edge.

Previously, I was sharpening all my knives on a Tormek. +/- 5 degrees of geez that feels OK to me. I'm really not a knife guy per se - I'm a food guy. Knives are a just a mean to an end, but since they are one of my primary tools in the kitchen, I definitely need to learn more about them, and especially how to keep them in tip top order.
 
If you're still a beginner experimenting with freehand sharpening, I would suggest staying away from lower grit stones. You're bound to make mistakes at first, and the coarser the grit - the more those mistakes would affect your blade.
I think your 1k is perfect for a dull Victorinox. I personally put on some mild pressure on the back stroke, and less on the forward stroke (to prevent the blade from cutting into the stone).
At 55-56HRC, which is what most European knives go by, raising a burr on the opposite side of sharpening should be pretty easy.
Perhaps you are raising a burr, but don't quite know how to feel for it?

I think I know how to feel for it (I use a couple of techniques - I'll try to catch it on a nail, or by dragging my thumb from the back edge of the blade towards the supposed to be sharp edge).

If there's a better way (or a correct way), I'm all ears. (The burr I used to get on the tormek was pretty darn obvious).
 
Tormek? That is a tool-sharpening machine, right?
I could see how using machines such as this would take off waaaay too much steel, and thus raise a ridiculous burr.
Your way of sliding the tip of your finger/thumb over the edge to feel for burr is correct. That is how you do it.
I'm not familiar with your Victorinox knives, but I have had experience freehand sharpening many other European knives. It's pretty soft steel, really.
You could go with what daveb has suggested, and just try a coarser stone that would remove more metal. I still think that using a 1k stone with mild pressure for a couple of minutes on one side, should raise a thin burr on the other side.
 
I don't remember off the top of my head if a Tormek is vertical or horizontal -- if the stone is vertical is will grind a slight hollow in the bevel (the wheel is 9 or 10 inches in diameter I think). Not a huge issue unless you have ground them with a very blunt angle on each side.

I use a fairly simple trick for determining my sharpening angle on a blunt knive (or one sharpened on a pull through sharpener, as they always seem to leave very wide sharpening angles and huge shoulders -- take a square cornered piece of paper and fold it in half through the corner. This give 1/2 of the original 90 degree angle -- this is what the total edge should look like on a Victorinox, roughtly 22 degrees on each side.

Fold the paper again through the point equally, and you will have 22.5 degrees, or roughly the angle at which the knife needs to be to the stone. Will get you quite close.

Now for the "I can't get a burr" part -- if this knife has been sharpened very much at a shallower angle, or sharpened quite a bit on a Tormek, it is likely very fat behind the edge. Two ways to check -- sight down the edge from the heel (known as the choil -- the knife should point directly away from your eyes so you see the cross-section of the blade from the heel) -- fairly fat with a steep bevel to the edge means the blade needs to be thinned, else it will wedge horribly, splitting things like carrots with the shoulders above the bevel rather than the edge cutting. Or you can simple hold the blade lightly in between your forefinger and thumb and slip from the spine down and off the edge. If you feel a distinct "lip" as they go off the edge, the knife is quite thick behind the edge.

If the knife is thick behind the edge and you are sharpening at an angle more acute than it has been sharpened in the past, it will take quite a while to grind off the excess steel. Took a long time on my friend's Vict. to get to the edge, it had been dragged through a pull-through a lot and was quite fat. Really needed to be thinned, but I didn't have time, just sharpened starting on my King Deluxe 300 to more like 15 degrees a side. Took long enough at that, and the tip is still blunt (a design feature, not a bug....).

I recommend the black Magic Marker trick, as you can easily see where you are grinding on the blade. You won't feel a burr until the bevel you are grinding intersects the bevel from the other side, and Vics are fairly tough. On a 1000 grit stone it's gong to take a while.

As far as pressure goes, the weight of your hand is plenty. Shaptons are pretty hard and don't wear quickly, but excessive pressure will dish them much faster without gaining much in grinding speed. If you are making black swarf (ground off metal) you are using enough pressure. Flip the knife fairly often so you don't displace the edge from the centerline of the blade by accident.

I think you will like the edge you get once you finally grind the knife to a proper bevel -- Vics are not the hardest knives out there, but once you get the grinding to shape done with proper bevels and possibly thinning, they stay sharp pretty well and will tolerate 15 degrees per side if you are careful with them. It won't be anywhere near as much hassle re-sharpen in the future if you touch it up often rather than letting it get into really bad shape before you do so.

I'm working on a pile of wood plane blades I obtained recently as an example of waiting far too long. These poor blades were visibly rounded off at the edge, I cannot imagine how much effort it must have take to force them to cut. Nicely smoothed off, no palpable edge at all by touch. I'm having to grind off at least half a millimter of steel on most of them to get rid of the rounded edge and to get a clean apex (plane blades are flat on one side, usually have a 25 or 30 degree bevel on the other). The steel is O1 at probably 60 RC -- it's taking a long time on a coarse diamond hone. Some of them may get a quick run with the bench grinder and a soft stone to remove the bulk of the metal, it takes forever on a 2" hard blade by hand!

A couple of minutes on an Arkansas stone a few times would have eliminated much of this effort....

Peter
 
Sharpen a Vic to 15 not 22.5 it'll handle it. I'm pretty sure that's how they leave the factory.
 
If your finger tips are insensitive like mine are, I find using a blue paper towel makes it easier to feel the burr, for me a burr that is obvious with the blue towel move upwards, can't be felt with my fingertips. Also as a previous poster said,sharpies are your friend and since Jon turned me on to the amusingly named "magnum" sharpie, it's been trivial to apply them properly..
 
Rick's advice is spot on. I would further suggest that you pick up a low grit (300 - 500) stone to establish a fresh edge with. Will save you time, wear on your 1K and no doubt some frustration.

The same properties that allow the Vnox to hold a decent edge for awhile will also make it a bear to get started.

I kinda agree on the low grit, but maybe go slow so you don't remove too much metal and mess up the profile. I got to bird beak a few knives when I started learning.
 
I recommend the black Magic Marker trick, as you can easily see where you are grinding on the blade. You won't feel a burr until the bevel you are grinding intersects the bevel from the other side, and Vics are fairly tough. On a 1000 grit stone it's gong to take a while.

:plus1:

Color the edge bevel with a black sharpie, and get a magnifying glass, jeweler's loupe or pocket microscope to inspect your work. With just the sharpie, you should be able to eyeball it to check if you are hitting the edge. With a good loupe or pocket microscope you will be able to see the scratches and burr that you form, even without the sharpie.

Also, are you using brand new stones? I don't know about Shaptons, but most synthetic stones have some amount of "crust" on them that you need to lap off before you will get peak performance.
 
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