Burning a Wa handle?

[Theeeel]

My dear fellow J-Knives enthusiasts,

Do you have any tips or advice about "torching" a Wa Handle? I love the style, especially with the Kurouchi finish on Bunkas...!

- Should I attempt to do it myself using a kitchen torch?
- Should I strictly avoid doing it myself?
- Should I simply entrust it to a professional? (I understand that this is likely the recommended option...)

Thank you for your insights.

Best regards,

Flo

 

[tostadas]

• You can torch it yourself, it's not hard. Burn it hot and fast. Then brush away the ash.
• Protect any horn, which can melt
• Not all wood burns the same way. For example, oak and chestnut have hard and soft grain which burn at different rates and give you the pronounced grain. Other wood types like standard magnolia ho wood burn more uniformly and basically just turn dark.
• Keep in mind that burning removes material, so don't go too long or your handle will shrink.

Here were some pics I took a while back on what an oak handle looks like with various degrees of char.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...ks-finished-handle-projects.49832/post-981210

 

[Theeeel]

• You can torch it yourself, it's not hard. Burn it hot and fast. Then brush away the ash.
• Protect any horn, which can melt
• Not all wood burns the same way. For example, oak and chestnut have hard and soft grain which burn at different rates and give you the pronounced grain. Other wood types like standard magnolia ho wood burn more uniformly and basically just turn dark.
• Keep in mind that burning removes material, so don't go too long or your handle will shrink.

Here were some pics I took a while back on what an oak handle looks like with various degrees of char.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...ks-finished-handle-projects.49832/post-981210

God thank you a ton for your answer and advises !
I will follow your steps. And will send you the results

 

[refcast]

1. Burning dries out wood, and it can crack, especially near the tang hole. Wood becomes more fragile afterwards too, if you install the handle via the burn in, tap handle in method. It tends to crack more easily. Maybe soaking in water afterwards would help but I didn't try that

2. Wire brushing after touching to exaggerate the wood grain and remove charred, powdery wood

3. I like to finish with beeswax after torching and brushing. I rub the solid beeswax directly on in a light coat, then use a cloth to even it out and bring to a gloss, then repeat. I also like to oil before beeswax too. It helps remove char dust.

4. I used tongs to hold the handle. I think it's better to torch the handle, when the handle is off the knife. . . I didn't want to cut myself or drop the knife or ruin the temper accidentally

I think it's doable yourself, but char some wood as practice first

 

[Theeeel]

Thank you alot @refcast