Cerax 320

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Blank Blades.

Blank Blades.

Blank Blank.
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I didnt want to start a new thread. But didnt know where else to post about this

I got a new cerax 320 in. And it looks .. different than the one i had before. I still have pieces of the old one, i used up. And they just dont look the same. I wonder if the one i had before was just extra soft or something. Because it was extremely, extremely, extremely soft. This one though i havent used yet just seems to appear different.

Gonna try it out later when i get the chance.

IMG_20231208_155100192.jpg
 
Blank Blades. said:
I didnt want to start a new thread. But didnt know where else to post about this

I got a new cerax 320 in. And it looks .. different than the one i had before. I still have pieces of the old one, i used up. And they just dont look the same. I wonder if the one i had before was just extra soft or something. Because it was extremely, extremely, extremely soft. This one though i havent used yet just seems to appear different.

Gonna try it out later when i get the chance.

View attachment 286834
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm misremembering, but I swear it had a blue tint to it.
 
Yeah my old cerax 320 was super soft and fast and blue. These newer ones are whiter, harder, slower, less porous, less thirsty, have mud binder inside or something. I liked the older one because it cut everythinggggg
 
refcast said:
Yeah my old cerax 320 was super soft and fast and blue. These newer ones are whiter, harder, slower, less porous, less thirsty, have mud binder inside or something. I liked the older one because it cut everythinggggg
Click to expand...
I’m on my 2nd 320 and it’s blue or atleast looks very different from my cerax 1k which is very white. But I don’t find it to be thirsty at all?
 
It has the correct code to a Cerax #320. IIRC 401 is the 29mm thick.

However indeed the #320 is usually blue-grey. However, as Jon Broida once said, colors can be varied pretty easily, and are usually used mostly to distinguish stones.

It could be that Suehiro decided to turn all of the "Old" Cerax to White, now that the New Cerax is the colored coding.

Also, Cerax #320 feels coarser/thirstier in few first uses - until you perm soak it, or until you've gave it enough short soaks. Would tend to dish more also IIRC but it's been like 2 years since I "started" one so I'm not entirely sure about the last part.
 
refcast said:
Yeah my old cerax 320 was super soft and fast and blue. These newer ones are whiter, harder, slower, less porous, less thirsty, have mud binder inside or something. I liked the older one because it cut everythinggggg
Click to expand...
Ok. See. I knew i wasnt crazy. I could tell something was different even before i tried it.

Still havent had time to test this one. But i will tonight.
 
ModRQC said:
Or it could be a mislabeled 1K. It very much looks like it. You could ask Suehiro for clarifications. They’ve been known to master a rough english.
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Ill go ahead and start soaking.

It does look very smooth for a 320. But that could just be because its new.

So. Its in the water. Still doesnt look blue like the old one. Took a few minutes before it started bubbling. Now it finally is.

I'll probably give it a good 30 minutes.
 
I hope even if this one isn't as soft as the old one i had. Its still pretty soft. Thats the whole reason i bought it.
 
If it feels quite harder, does load some with carbon/iron clad blades even with copious splashes for little dishing, and/or otherwise initially presents with a watery-swarf slurry, it’s much more probable to be a mislabelled 1K. If it goes into a thick mud even with copious water splashes and dishes deeply wherever any more strokes/pressure is carried it’s most probably a #320 in needs of a longer/perma soaking. Also #320 leaves a dark or dull scratchy finish over anything it touches. Cerax 1K has some obvious mid grits clearing powers.
 
So i tried it out.

It does act just like i remember my cerax 320 acting. Extremely soft.
 
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