Cork - does it work?

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ma_sha1 said:
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Just run the edge on stone at higher angle than sharpening, both sides, they’ll come off. I don’t dare to run it near vertical like Kippington does.
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I was very reluctant to use the angle that @Kippington showed in his video. Seemed counter-intuitive to use such a steep angle after sharpening at a very acute angle. After having it explained and then demonstrated, I gave it a go. Very happy with the result.

As already mentioned, many materials and techniques can work for you. Just feel and practice. Done well, the steep angle method above removes burrs very quickly. YMMV.
 
Yeah I like Kippington's example more than I expected. You need to do some extra polishing/touch up strokes afterward, but it's pretty darn reliable.
All respect to Jon's methods, but it needs a little finesse.
 
Because that might be a bit like gently "killing" the edge on a razor and easily getting it back. You remove everything that would be problematic, but just in the right amount.
 
captaincaed said:
Yeah I like Kippington's example more than I expected. You need to do some extra polishing/touch up strokes afterward, but it's pretty darn reliable.
All respect to Jon's methods, but it needs a little finesse.
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For the record, I didn't intend to dis Jon's methods at all. They are great instructional videos. I learnt about deburring from him: the final stropping motions on the stone, the lateral pulls, then using cork or a scourer.

Using the high angle approach is not for the faint-hearted. It requires a deft touch and a good understanding of the remaining burr. Even after doing it, I will usually do a couple of very light "slicing the water" strokes (edge leading) and may still go with cork/felt/napped leather etc. Am I obsessive? You bet! 😇
 
Deburring is best done with dental floss, making sure all those microscopic teeth are really really clean.

But yeah otherwise, it's always nice to see it coming off on the stone first. If you find it hard to make happen, just flip the burr as many times as it takes. Even on the coarser sharpening stone (say you use a progression), flipping a burr patiently enough usually starts to yield some results towards deburring - then just the passage to the next finer stone of the progression is usually good enough to deburr in little time.
 
"Kippington's technique" has been mentioned several times in this thread. Can someone point to the video or explanation please?
 
Anyone have a good source for hard felt and rock hard felt other than Martell or Cktg?
 
Vacuity... I don't have any knife to sharpen..

So I first listened to your link - interesting.

Then I listened to a sharpening session with an angle clip from sharp edge shop... basically it's ok though. Just unnerving music and general lack of interest.

Then I listened to Gage from SKS taking out his top pics... knife porn pause, and not so good.

Then I listened to the Outdoor Chef reviewing cheap Amazon knives...

Why did I get trapped into this **** IDK.

Going to sandpaper polish my Victo Santoku now... I feel like a bad hollow grind job.
 
Ok so that's done - 40 minutes dirty cheap job. Plus a couple of smokes.

See here:
ModRQC said:
Thought I'd cut in with a 40 minutes dirt job sandpaper polish... using my fingers, mind you.

I present to you... the new and improved two tones Victorinox Santoku.... Or... what have you... cheap stainless steel core Victorinox cladded with the same cheap stainless steel... :p

View attachment 84351View attachment 84352View attachment 84353View attachment 84354

Stupidly holds the farce under many kind of lighting and angles...

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But of course the veneer doesn't stand true...

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And with the proper angle or lighting the dirty trick is revealed...

Still better on first sight than when out of thinning. That's about all there is to say. Oh yeah and still some marker to remove out of the dimples.

To cheap knives, cheap treatments.


What you guys do... is another thing completely. Kudos and fascinating pictures guys!
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Back to more vacuity... although that polishing seems to have taken a bit of a toll out of the Victo's edge. Time to get the brand new Naniwa 800 out I believe. :D
 
I also just drag the knife through the edge of my cutting board. I actually do that with some regularity, after a long chopping session or whatever. After sharpening I can hear scratching, feel rough dragging, and seeing a little black matter show up on the board. After a pass or two it smooths out. If it hasn't smoothed out then I know its time to touch up on the stones.

I find soft wood like that to be the most aggressive fastest method of deburring, for me.
 
Tried @Kippington method just today with two Victorinox sharpened on NP800. It works amazingly well even though I’m sure I could do it better. Surprising still, very quick sharpening job, just follow with a couple of one handed edge leading strokes as instructed, and in my case some cork to remove small remnants, and both knives where used in a long prep and kept an amazing edge. Still glide through paper.

Very nice of Kip to share such amazing tricks.
 
And again after polishing my Moritaka blue 2, made a light burr on sp2K, flipped it, « kipped » it, one leading stroke per side, cork, and finished with half a dozen light swipes per side on sp5k. Nice no nonsense edge, push cuts paper, good bite, can’t wait to test it on some food tomorrow.
 
Moritaka's edge tested - very true. And yet a weird stone progression that I didn't know what results would come out. The knife needed a full sharpening and the SP2K is a weird place to start that - it takes patience. Still, the fact is this knife now push cuts - and tap cuts - like a demon. Of course it's been slowly re-grinded to something new altogether. Another subject entirely - but I'm still impressed at how Kippington's trick works even from a noob's standpoint, and from Krupp to Blue #2, and with very different behaving stones.
 
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