Does My T-F Petty have an Overgrind?

[robenco15]

FWIW, my opinion of the Teruyasu Fujiwara knives is low. I can't think of another knife who's fit 'n finish is so poor. The western handles are by far the worst with crazy shaped bolster and tang fit ups. The bevel grinds aren't good at all and the spine is usually sharper than the edge.

That's too bad. Mine came with an oval rosewood handle that is gorgeous and comfortable. The spine was super smooth and apart from the uneven bevel that I fixed just by stropping, everything else was good. Sounds like I got lucky.

 

[robenco15]

I'm not sure I follow the second part of this. Using a straight edge? Not quite familiar with what you are suggesting.

After stropping it more, inspecting it more, using it, and getting about 10 other opinions, I'm pretty confident I was just confused by the uneven bevel grind as I didn't even know what an overgrind is (still don't think I do). If you want to elaborate on that "using a straight edge" I will definitely go ahead with that though. Appreciate the input Dave.

 

[Dave Martell]

That's too bad. Mine came with an oval rosewood handle that is gorgeous and comfortable. The spine was super smooth and apart from the uneven bevel that I fixed just by stropping, everything else was good. Sounds like I got lucky.

Going with a wa handle certainly took a good amount of the F&F issues away.

Are you sure that stropping corrected the uneven bevel? Strops have a tendency to conform and with such a slow cut rate I'm thinking that maybe you polished the bevel to appear to be fixed/even vs actually even. Try a stone to be sure and like I said before a straight edge will show you a lot about what's going on as well.

 

[Dave Martell]

I'm not sure I follow the second part of this. Using a straight edge? Not quite familiar with what you are suggesting.

After stropping it more, inspecting it more, using it, and getting about 10 other opinions, I'm pretty confident I was just confused by the uneven bevel grind as I didn't even know what an overgrind is (still don't think I do). If you want to elaborate on that "using a straight edge" I will definitely go ahead with that though. Appreciate the input Dave.

There are several different types of "straight edge" tools, my personal preference is for an engineer's square (2-3" blade)...

You can position the edge of this tool's "outer edge" of it's blade along the knife's edge (just above the bevel - in different sections) and check for low spots (overgrinds) which will show as light under the tool's blade.

You can also use the tool in the same manner positioning it against the bevel's shoulder and cutting edge. This will almost always show light (since a wheel is most often used to grind this bevel and creates a hollow grind) but you can compare the amount of light along the length and can assume more light equals a larger gap which can possibly mean a heavy grind...possibly an overgrind.


*Note - rulers are NOT straight edges unless specifically made as such and you have to look for them, they're not for sale in Wal-Mart.

 

[robenco15]

Thanks Dave. Appreciate the explanation.

 

[robenco15]

Going with a wa handle certainly took a good amount of the F&F issues away.

Are you sure that stropping corrected the uneven bevel? Strops have a tendency to conform and with such a slow cut rate I'm thinking that maybe you polished the bevel to appear to be fixed/even vs actually even. Try a stone to be sure and like I said before a straight edge will show you a lot about what's going on as well.

Yeah Mark at CKtG puts a rosewood oval handle on it, smooths the spine out, checks the F&F, and touches up the edge to remove what I guess is the initial factory metal which has a tendency to chip. He also let me know that he checked for an overgrind and that there wasn't one. Not sure if he checked with a straight edge, but as I don't own a straight edge, I'm going to stop worrying about it. From what I can tell, there are no areas on the knife that appear thicker, out of proportion, or uneven. It lays flat with no light shining through. I am going to be purchasing stones shortly and I guess will sharpen it to fix the bevel if I haven't already.

Thanks again!

 

[daveb]

Given the disdain that this forum has for CKtG (which I've discovered in my 3 days here) I wonder if any knife that CKtG community highly recommends comes under some sort of bias here. Everything I read here that may not jive with what I've read on CKtG (and vice versa now) I feel like I have to take with some consideration that this place hates CKtG. But, that is just some observations from more or less an outsider.

Preferably, as I have gotten my answer already and this thread is starting to go off the rails, I'd love it if it could be deleted.

Most of the folks here are CKTG neutral. Some have had issues there, may choose not to shop there, but "distain" and "hate" is too harsh. (I'm in this group) And then there are a few hat are more vocal. I realize they have their reasons, some quite valid - others piling on. It's pretty easy for the reader to sort through applicable posts.

We don't delete posts here but as the OP if you want it closed we can do that.

 

[Corrado]

FWIW, my opinion of the Teruyasu Fujiwara knives is low. I can't think of another knife who's fit 'n finish is so poor. The western handles are by far the worst with crazy shaped bolster and tang fit ups. The bevel grinds aren't good at all and the spine is usually sharper than the edge.

I think this comment is a little unfair and maybe applies to older batches of the TF Nishiji's. I've seen the weird spine with the depression of the core steel creating a channel which could trap moisture leading to corrosion. But this wasn't the case with the two 210mm gyuto's I received direct from TF this morning. I'll post some photo's tomorrow.

The spine's of both knives were sanded smooth and slightly rounded. The only sharp edge (apart from the cutting edge:laugh was the choil but its not uncomfortable. Overall, for the price paid I was pretty impressed with the fit and finish, especially after hear all the negative reports in the past. I got the D-shaped handles knowing I'd install a custom handle at some point. OOTB edge is scary sharp but this may also because the blades I specified were to be very light and thin. The 49mm heel height example is only 105g so it really feels and performs like a laser although there is virtually no flex in the blade. The 45mm is 125g and a little thicker along the spine. I can't detect any over grind on either blade.

I would agree completely regarding the western handle. Its butt ugly and seems poorly executed.

 

[robenco15]

I think this comment is a little unfair and maybe applies to older batches of the TF Nishiji's. I've seen the weird spine with the depression of the core steel creating a channel which could trap moisture leading to corrosion. But this wasn't the case with the two 210mm gyuto's I received direct from TF this morning. I'll post some photo's tomorrow.

The spine's of both knives were sanded smooth and slightly rounded. The only sharp edge (apart from the cutting edge:laugh was the choil but its not uncomfortable. Overall, for the price paid I was pretty impressed with the fit and finish, especially after hear all the negative reports in the past. I got the D-shaped handles knowing I'd install a custom handle at some point. OOTB edge is scary sharp but this may also because the blades I specified were to be very light and thin. The 49mm heel height example is only 105g so it really feels and performs like a laser although there is virtually no flex in the blade. The 45mm is 125g and a little thicker along the spine. I can't detect any over grind on either blade.

I would agree completely regarding the western handle. Its butt ugly and seems poorly executed.

Glad to hear this and glad you like yours. I agree with everything you said. Same exact spine and my choil, funny enough, has that weird sharp edge you are talking about, but it isn't something that bothers me or would bother anyone. I'm already thinking about the possibility of a T-F 240mm Gyuto, but I would want a thin one like yours. My petty isn't as sharp as I'd like (which may be unfair because I want it to be as sharp as my Konosuke HD2 Gyuto) and wedges a little bit. Thinning it may be in the cards in the future, but it is too early to really worry about that as I've only had it 3 days. I bought some stones so I'm sure it is about to get even better.

I got a wa handle thanks to Mark at CKtG so I can't complain at all about the handle. It is fantastic.

 

[Corrado]

Top is the 105g 210 Gyuto with 49mm heel height. Cutting edge is exactly 211mm.

Bottom is the 125g 210 Gyuto with 44mm heel height. Cutting edge 210mm. This one also has a machi.





Here are the choil shots.

49mm


44mm


Finally a photo of the nicely eased spines. Hard to see the core steel on these blades. 49mm on the left.

 

[Chicagohawkie]

W

Top is the 105g 210 Gyuto with 49mm heel height. Cutting edge is exactly 211mm.

Bottom is the 125g 210 Gyuto with 44mm heel height. Cutting edge 210mm. This one also has a machi.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/Haydn/DSC_0412_zpscmxm9nwq.jpg[/IMG]



Here are the choil shots.

49mm


44mm


Finally a photo of the nicely eased spines. Hard to see the core steel on these blades. 49mm on the left.

It appears that one seems to be the older style and the other the new style. The older being the thicker angled tang. All my Nashiji knives are the new style and have the raw unfinished spines. How old are these examples?

 

[Corrado]

W




It appears that one seems to be the older style and the other the new style. The older being the thicker angled tang. All my Nashiji knives are the new style and have the raw unfinished spines. How old are these examples?

Arrived yesterday. I had these custom made by TF and specified the machi. I went into a little more detail in my post in the new acquisitions section.

 

[Chicagohawkie]

Agh, very cool. I'll have to check out that thread. Did you specify the smoothed spines or is this a new direction for Fujiwara?

 

[playford]

I have a 150 Nashiji Petty, like the one above ordered direct from TF, it was something like $70 incl free post to the UK from Japan (plus uk taxes).

They are pretty roughly finished, but I found the petty to be a great cutter. It reminds me a bit of the SFGZ carters, back when they were cheap, they had a pretty rough finish and a cheesy handle, but that was reflected in the price. Some of the US prices for TF are a bit crazy and I wouldn't pay that much.

I like the petty enough that I'd consider a 240 nashiji, but I'd have to factor in a new handle.

I wish the whole CKTG thing would just stop, I think whatever pointed needed to be made at this point has been.

 

[Chicagohawkie]

I have a 150 Nashiji Petty, like the one above ordered direct from TF, it was something like $70 incl free post to the UK from Japan (plus uk taxes).

They are pretty roughly finished, but I found the petty to be a great cutter. It reminds me a bit of the SFGZ carters, back when they were cheap, they had a pretty rough finish and a cheesy handle, but that was reflected in the price. Some of the US prices for TF are a bit crazy and I wouldn't pay that much.

I like the petty enough that I'd consider a 240 nashiji, but I'd have to factor in a new handle.

I wish the whole CKTG thing would just stop, I think whatever pointed needed to be made at this point has been.

The 150 petty with the decent handle is about 90 bucks and the 240 Nashiji is about 250 with the decent ho wood / buffalo ferrule, this includes shipping. This is a reasonable value. The western handle and the cheap round handle with the plastic ferrule are junk and not well executed. But at as high as 175 for the petty and up to 495 for the 240 gyuto in the US make them not a good value and not on my radar.

 

[robenco15]

The 150 petty with the decent handle is about 90 bucks and the 240 Nashiji is about 250 with the decent ho wood / buffalo ferrule, this includes shipping. This is a reasonable value. The western handle and the cheap round handle with the plastic ferrule are junk and not well executed. But at as high as 175 for the petty and up to 495 for the 240 gyuto in the US make them not a good value and not on my radar.

I got my petty for 142 dollars from CKtG, and while not as cheap as direct from Japan, Mark checks the F&F, installs a rosewood oval handle, and slightly sharpens it or something to remove the leftover factory metal that causes it to chip out of the box. He will soon be adding the rosewood handles to the 240mm Gyutos. I know CKtG isn't popular, but you gotta appreciate that he spends 15 to 20 minutes on each of these T-F knives to make sure they are good to go. Ordering from Japan may be cheaper, but it also seems to be much more of a gamble. Just my two-cents.

 

[Corrado]

I got my petty for 142 dollars from CKtG, and while not as cheap as direct from Japan, Mark checks the F&F, installs a rosewood oval handle, and slightly sharpens it or something to remove the leftover factory metal that causes it to chip out of the box. He will soon be adding the rosewood handles to the 240mm Gyutos. I know CKtG isn't popular, but you gotta appreciate that he spends 15 to 20 minutes on each of these T-F knives to make sure they are good to go. Ordering from Japan may be cheaper, but it also seems to be much more of a gamble. Just my two-cents.

And takes a lot more investment in time and effort to get things right. But for me in this case that was half the fun.

 

[Chicagohawkie]

I got my petty for 142 dollars from CKtG, and while not as cheap as direct from Japan, Mark checks the F&F, installs a rosewood oval handle, and slightly sharpens it or something to remove the leftover factory metal that causes it to chip out of the box. He will soon be adding the rosewood handles to the 240mm Gyutos. I know CKtG isn't popular, but you gotta appreciate that he spends 15 to 20 minutes on each of these T-F knives to make sure they are good to go. Ordering from Japan may be cheaper, but it also seems to be much more of a gamble. Just my two-cents.

How is the rosewood handle? Does it have a ferrule? I was looking a picture of the 210 mm Nashiji and the black ferrule part of the handle looks as if it's painted on?

 

[robenco15]

How is the rosewood handle? Does it have a ferrule? I was looking a picture of the 210 mm Nashiji and the black ferrule part of the handle looks as if it's painted on?

I really like it. Very comfortable. I thought I would miss the octagonal handle like I have in my Konosuke HD2, but it is great. The black ferrule is not painted on as far as I can tell. There are definitely two distinct parts to the handle, the longer brown (rosewood?) part and the black part. I can see and feel a break between the two parts. If you contact Mark I'm sure he'll give you the exact breakdown of the handle. As Dave said earlier in this thread, with Mark replacing the handles he is eliminated most of the F&F issues.