So what do I see when I look at the (in this scenario) horn ferrule/tang juncture? Just horn? Or are you letting the dowel come all the way through the ferrule?
I hide my dowel by stopping it about 1/4" from the end of the ferrule...so all you see is a tang slot.
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When I assemble it there is no evidence of the dowel at all.
I do something very similar. I run my dowel to inside but not all the way through the ferrule. I then work from a predrilled center hole in the ferrule to create an opening for the tang.
In my case, on larger handles I also use a 5/8 dowel. With a larger dowel, I can get a better burn in result than if I were trying to burn in to harder/denser exotic woods which may not respond as well to heat.
so..................the lighter wood that I'm seeing at the machi is probably a dowel? That makes sense. I'll try to post some pics during the lathe process and see how it goes.
Thanks, great thread for us dummies.................
So far I've only mounted my own knives...and all of my tangs are a standard 1/2" in width, and around 2-3mm in thickness. For that reason I don't really need a 5/8" dowel...though to be honest I may go that way to ease overall positioning of the knife in the slot.
This thread got me interested and I was looking at some of my handles yesterday. On a wa-handle, the width of many of my handles is around 3/4" at the ferrule end, so if I used a 5/8" dowel in there, the ferrule wood might be very thin in spots of I didn't center the hole perfectly. I'm afraid of taking away too much material somewhere and exposing the ferrule!
Not on my, CPD, or Stefan's handles its not. On some others you'll see a dowel (or the wood of the handle if they use a tenon).
I was just looking at that! My handles are all pretty much 3/4" square (give or take 1-2mm) at the ferrule. 5/8" would definitely be cutting it close. I mean...I could do it, but for overall strength on my handles I'm not sure it would be the best idea. CPD's handles may be a bit larger than that as he did mention 'on larger handles'.
So I would just see the horn.....................?
Thanks
Gotcha.
I'm thinking of just boring it out about 3/4", leave the rest. That should be adequate glue surface for the epoxy.
Great, I'll take a run at this when I get home.
i use a full length dowel, minus 1/4 at the ferrule ans i leave a bit more meat at the butt i use a mini mill to match the tang slot to the point of initial fit is hammered on. i have a full wip i did on this i will post.
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