Getting and Feeling a Burr

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alfreedo

Active Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
I'm a rookie sharpener and need help in the basics. I have an Edge Pro and use it for kitchen knives. I modified it buy installing some rare earth magnets to hold the knife flat to the platform. I just bought an Angle Cube digital level to help me with the grinding angle. I'm practicing on some beater knives but so far haven't gotten them as sharp as I'd like. I've started with a 200 or 400 grit stone but am having trouble establishing and feeling a burr so when I know when to start working the other side. How do I know when I have a burr, and what's the best way to feel it.

Appreciate any help.
 
What knives are you doing and what is your sharpening angle? Sounds like you are not quite hitting the edge.
 
Working on a couple of Chicago Cutlery knives. Set the angle to 20 degrees and marked the bevel with a sharpie. Took a couple of passes, and the sharpie was removed, so I thought I had the correct angle.
 
You can definitely raise a burr on them with a 200 grit stone. Are you using the original stones? The stock stones are actually a higher grit than there numbers would imply. The stock 400 compares to 1500 to 2000 grit stone. Recheck your angle. Use the sharpie again. Stay on a lower grit, be patient until you raise a burr. You'll get it.
 
What I do is just slide a finger from the spine across the edge (back of the knife toward the edge NOT along the edge!). A burr sort of stands up and you will feel that tiny nearly right angle of thin metal -- the other side is quite smooth.

Chances are your Chicago Cutlery is like the set I bought -- never ever sharpened and used quite a bit. Hold the knife edge upward with the tip raised toward a lamp and you will likely see lots of light reflecting off the flat parts of the edge where it has been folded over or mashed down in use. So long as you can see bright reflections off the edge, you won't feel much of a burr as you have not yet ground enough steel off to have reached it yet.

I don't know what the original angle was, but some of them seemed quite blunt to me, took quite a while on a 300 grit stone to draw up a burr.

If your sharpie is vanishing, you are indeed working the bevel, but it may take quite some time to remove enough metal to reach the edge. Chicago Cutlery knifes draw up a distinct burr, at least the stainless ones, you should not have much trouble feeling it when you get one.

If you have trouble finding the burr with a fingertip, you can also lay the knife flat on the back of a fingernail. A burr will catch as you draw the edge away from you (at 90 degrees, don't slide the edge down your fingernail). The side you were working on the stone will NOT have a burr, you should be able to tell the difference once you pull one up.

Do be careful, once you get a burr on a medium stone, the knife will be sharp enough to cut you rather badly if you are not.

Peter
 
The stock stones are actually a higher grit than there numbers would imply. The stock 400 compares to 1500 to 2000 grit stone.

That may be a bit of a reach. Certainly many factors affect the way an abrasive behaves but the stock 400 stone is FEPA-F graded which has roughly the same specified particle size as JIS 700. Even allowing for variation in grading method I doubt it is more than JIS 1200.

http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/s...-in-Micron-Scale-Grand-Logarithmic-Grit-Chart
 
MY fingers are insensitive as a result of age, so I have trouble feeling a burr. A trick I use is to use a blue paper towel to move upward from the spine, the fibres in a blue paper towel seem to be especially good at catching a burr
 
A woolen thread stretched tightly and dragged along the edge works well, too.
 
... How do I know when I have a burr, and what's the best way to feel it. Appreciate any help.

Especially since you're using a beater, work one small area and one side aggressively until you feel the burr (or 'lip') form on the opposite side. Since you're hitting the sharpie ypu probably just need to work longer in one spot to compensate for a beat up, thick edge. What angle are you at (because you could always go higher by just a fraction)
 
Thanks all for the good suggestions. I may have the same sensitivity issue as gic, so I'll try using a paper towel or woolen thread. As a rookie, I'm a bit confused about the "numbers" associated with stones. Mr. Wizzard indicated that the stock 400 stone is FEPA-F graded which is roughly the same specified particle size as JIS 700 or even 1200. I'll post a new thread about recommended stones for the Edge Pro.
 
The question or confusion about EP stone grit vs. the rest of the world has been tossed around for a few years. I found this on BladeForums:
From an email with the owner of Edge Pro, when I asked about the grits of his stones compared to Japanese waterstones
We have new crossover numbers to compare our stone's grit ratings with others that are much more accurate than previously.
I just tested a set of Shapton Stones that were made for the Edge Pro. The 2000 was the same as our 320, the 5000 was the same as the 600, the 8000 was just a little coarser then the 1000


and this on the EP website:

http://www.edgeproinc.com/Sharpening-Tips.html#tip-crossover

Either way, for the OP, start and stay with the coarsest stone until you get the burr

That may be a bit of a reach. Certainly many factors affect the way an abrasive behaves but the stock 400 stone is FEPA-F graded which has roughly the same specified particle size as JIS 700. Even allowing for variation in grading method I doubt it is more than JIS 1200.

http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/s...-in-Micron-Scale-Grand-Logarithmic-Grit-Chart
 
I've set the angle at 20 degrees, which seemed to match the bevel using a sharpie. If I go to a higher angle, about how much increase?
 
Don't know anything about an edge pro but from twenty degrees I may go with a lower angle but not higher. J-knives probably shouldn't be any more than maybe fifteen degrees/side.

Sure would be easier and less expensive to just buy a combo King stone.:dontknow:
 
Thats what I meant....Raising the collar on the EP will give you a lower angle

Don't know anything about an edge pro but from twenty degrees I may go with a lower angle but not higher.
 
Regarding mikemac's comment if he is using a drill-stop collar raising that will result in lowering the pivot and angle, so you're both right. :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top