Glue or Epoxy recommendation for buffalo horn ferrule

[designed2fail]

A bit of a odd question by maybe you guys can help me out.
I am looking to attach buffalo horn ferrule to a wood handle. So was wondering would I be better off with West system G/Flex epoxy or System Three Blade pro work Epoxy? Or is there a better option?
The buffalo horn ferrule will be going onto a wood handle. I was thinking of hollowing out the horn with a compression router bit at a very low speed to not heat the horn. to make it a cap to slide over a recessed handle for more surface area to glue/epoxy together. then File out a opening for the tang of the knife.

I also have on hand Titebond 2 & 3 and also Startbond medium thick CA glue Not to keen on CA glue though as it is sorta a brittle way to attach items.
All help will be greatly appreciated. Any and all info will be of a great help thank you
my sketch of what I have in idea

 

[cotedupy]

Yes. Epoxy > Superglue, for exactly the reason you say - superglue can be a little brittle.

I use Araldite 2 part, usually 5 min, though I've used longer and shorter setting versions, all works fine. You don't necessarily have to hollow it out, it will work fine as a solid piece. But if you have the kit and want to make it a cap - then go for it.

 

[jjlotti]

Definitely agree expoxy especially if you are treating a hollow void. The wood worker devils advocate in me would say if you "dusted" the wooden butt with baking soda and a thin layer of CA on the horn it would be fine. If you drop your blade on a tile floor or something similar I doubt the handle will be your concern. Short of that either should be fine.
Off subject but baking soda is magical for Ca. Strengthens bond makes sanding easier(more wood like) and dramatically shortens set up time. Think one minute to almost instantly

 

[designed2fail]

Yes. Epoxy > Superglue, for exactly the reason you say - superglue can be a little brittle.

I use Araldite 2 part, usually 5 min, though I've used longer and shorter setting versions, all works fine. You don't necessarily have to hollow it out, it will work fine as a solid piece. But if you have the kit and want to make it a cap - then go for it.

Just curious have you ever doing something like that? I see no reason why it wouldn't work in theory. I cut a sliver off to see how well it can be machined and that worked pretty well. My idea is to make a jig so it can't move then in increments (1-2 playing card depth) at a time to prevent it from over heating remove the material to make a hollow cap to slide over the handle.

I very may well be over thinking this but wood end-grain connections are not exactly known for their strength. Id feel more a bit more comfortable with a bit of long grain connection as it will be a outdoor/field knife .

Definitely agree expoxy especially if you are treating a hollow void. The wood worker devils advocate in me would say if you "dusted" the wooden butt with baking soda and a thin layer of CA on the horn it would be fine. If you drop your blade on a tile floor or something similar I doubt the handle will be your concern. Short of that either should be fine.
Off subject but baking soda is magical for Ca. Strengthens bond makes sanding easier(more wood like) and dramatically shortens set up time. Think one minute to almost instantly

It wont exactly be a hollow void more like a tight mortise and tenon. The horn will acting as the mortise and the handle as the tenon. I will have to try the baking soda ca glue trick out some time I have never heard of it before actually.

 

[Justinv]

The mortise/tenon construction is traditional for japanese wa handles.

Alternatively an internal 3/8” dowel with precut slot is often used by western makers. Pins can be used to secure the butt joint connection, i think jobone does this. Both are covered in other threads.

 

[Justinv]

Here are a couple threads that cover dowels, adhesives, pins

Double dowel:
wa-handle-construction-martell-knives

Dowel, Adhesives, pins
wa-knife-handles-to-dowel-or-not-to-dowel

 

[designed2fail]

Here are a couple threads that cover dowels, adhesives, pins

Double dowel:
wa-handle-construction-martell-knives

Dowel, Adhesives, pins
wa-knife-handles-to-dowel-or-not-to-dowel

Those two threads were a very helpful read thank you

 

[jjlotti]

Field knife that will get banged around Def expoxy!
In general I don't like the spacer look on gyuto, but am a sucker for brass on a hunting knife now that I'm building your handle in my head har har

 

[designed2fail]

Field knife that will get banged around Def expoxy!
In general I don't like the spacer look on gyuto, but am a sucker for brass on a hunting knife now that I'm building your handle in my head har har

Wasn't really thinking or planning on a spacer. Going more for a tanto style like the attached picture but instead of the silver nickle have buffalo horn instead.

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