kasumi, kurouchi, low carbon steel/iron

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olpappy

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Do most here keep their kasumi knives pristine or let them patina?

I have noted that many including myself have had problems with kurouchi cladding rusting. I am under the impression that the low carbon steel used to clad KU knives is close to or the same material used to form the soft layer of a kasumi knife, anyone know if this is right or wrong? I know some here have visited some of the manufacturers in Japan and seen knives being made, perhaps someone knows the answer. My assumption is that the only difference between a KU and a migaki knife is the finishing process, not the materials.

Right now I have KU blade which is rusted and the black is more than halfway gone. The surface itself is not terribly irregular, no really deep hammer marks. I am thinking of rubbing it on coarse and fine stones to make a migaki finish. If I do this it shouldn't be any harder to maintain than a kasumi type knife, should it?
 
Pretty much. The kurouchi is the forge scale being left on. Kasumi is the scale being ground off then polished
 
Is it possible then to remove kurouchi with a diamond plate and turn it into a kasumi? Or is that just a great way to ruin a knife?
 
It's doable. @nutmeg has done it with a Watanabe knife that came out amazingly.
 
It's doable. @nutmeg has done it with a Watanabe knife that came out amazingly.

Doable fore sure! But one would better be skilled, patient and rather well equipped.
If I add to do smth like that for a a knife that is valuable: I would like it send it to a professional.
 
I have never removed a KU finish so I will not be any help there. However, you asked who keeps their knives polished or lets them patina. I let my Kasumi knives patina and then clean them up every time they get a full sharpening. Kind of like a rinse and repeat sort of thing. Maybe I am just lucky but I have not had a KU knife rust. (Knock on wood.) I think if I wanted to keep my knife patina free I would just go with something stainless clad. I don't particularly care for orange and black onions. :lol2:
 
A fine stone won't usually do a migaki finish - you would most likely end up with all-over kasumi (blade face will look like blade road). And even that requires absolute flatness (nearly guaranteed not to be there. Make sure not to destroy an s grind that way!), which can turn out to be far more work than intended.

For Migaki-like, usually sandpaper (lot of work!) is recommended; see all what has been written on knife thinning and refinishing. BTW, authentic migaki (likely rare on a hocho) is a metal-on-metal polishing technique (no, haven't bothered trying it after all).

Hands off new/untested/cheap diamond stones for that - they can make out-of-grit scratches that will take you hours to grind out.


...


Usually grinding the blade road clean on any knife with a shinogi when doing full sharpening, not bothering with removing patina inside an urasuki, dealing with superficial rust on cladding with toothpaste.
 
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