Wood identification
- Thread starter tarnschaf
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Looks like an end grain maple board that needs some *serious* love.
Hard to tell from the picture, I mean, what does it feel like?
Is it kinda smooth?
As for oiling, I use linseed oil ("Leinöl") as we eat it regularly anyway.
Is it kinda smooth?
As for oiling, I use linseed oil ("Leinöl") as we eat it regularly anyway.
Thanks for the replys.
It feels kind of smooth but some parts are coarse a bit waxy. no negative smell.
Do i sand both sides ? is it advisable to get some kind of feet ?
Dimensions are 48x37x4.5 cm
Edit: which sandpaper grit ?
It feels kind of smooth but some parts are coarse a bit waxy. no negative smell.
Do i sand both sides ? is it advisable to get some kind of feet ?
Dimensions are 48x37x4.5 cm
Edit: which sandpaper grit ?
1. Tung oil has to be the pure kind(check bottle and safety datasheet).
There are many oils with tung oil in them that are not food safe.
2. Tung oil properly hardens and thus if you have tung oil near the surface it will influence the hardness of the board (in a negative way)
I can say the same for linseed oil.
I ll check if they are food save thanks for the heads up!
First i would need to sand them right ? Edit: Sand the board. Not them -.-
How do i increase the chance that the surface stays flat / level during sanding ?
First i would need to sand them right ? Edit: Sand the board. Not them -.-
How do i increase the chance that the surface stays flat / level during sanding ?
Yes, point 1 surely is true for linseed oils too. (purity)
Tung oil has to be cured to be food safe though if I remember correctly which takes up to 30days.
Linseed oil is edible anyway.
I did not know that linseed oil hardens the same way as tung oil.
Wood that I treat with linseed oil, has to be re-oiled rather often.
Whereas tung oil leaves a lacquer-like surface that I don´t have to renew at all ( as it seems)
May be an illusion and depending on amount of soap that is used for cleaning?
Hmm, maybe mineral oil is the better oil in the end!?
It does not have any curing times, so you can apply and use the board immediately.
Has to be re-applied more often though.
You make a good point I suppose. I just oiled my knife handles 3 days ago with Tung oil and now have to wait eternity and they already have that lacquer like sheen surface which I never get with BLO(not food safe). I got a thing about not using petroleum products no matter how pure they.
I also didn't know that Tung oil wasn't food safe until cured, perhaps pure linseed oil is the best way to go.
Pure tung oil is supposed to be food-safe.
Tung oil Finish on the other hand is not food-safe.
Check the ingredients, if it contains other than Tung Oil then it's not food safe.
Tung oil Finish on the other hand is not food-safe.
Check the ingredients, if it contains other than Tung Oil then it's not food safe.
Thanks for the insight. I have not found a local store for Tung-Oil so i went with Linseed-Oil.
I bought some sandpaper (120 / 180 / 240 ).I found different information on how to treat wood.
Some claim first oil then sand some the other way around. Also some say oil and wait for drying after each grit stage.
Any insight you can share ?
Thanks
I bought some sandpaper (120 / 180 / 240 ).I found different information on how to treat wood.
Some claim first oil then sand some the other way around. Also some say oil and wait for drying after each grit stage.
Any insight you can share ?
Thanks
Does the board need sanding at all? Very dirty (unknown) marks, deep scratches etc.?
Otherwise I wouldn´t bother and just
wash (water and a little bit of soap, always both sides!, especially when not oiled or unknown state, or else it can warp/break etc.),
let dry (wipe off and let it stand upright) then
oil (liberally when its real dry but wipe off excess after 30min. or so; also: both sides!) and let dry for a couple of days.
If it still looks very dry after that, apply more oil and let dry again.
Otherwise I wouldn´t bother and just
wash (water and a little bit of soap, always both sides!, especially when not oiled or unknown state, or else it can warp/break etc.),
let dry (wipe off and let it stand upright) then
oil (liberally when its real dry but wipe off excess after 30min. or so; also: both sides!) and let dry for a couple of days.
If it still looks very dry after that, apply more oil and let dry again.
Bodine
Senior Member
Sand with 120 then 220 using a palm sander. Oil all sides until it will take no more.
Mineral oil is my choice.
Mineral oil is my choice.
It got some unknown stains and marks i would like to remove bevor using. Washing did not help. I am using a sanding block as i have no tools.
I have a very sunny kitchen can i leave the wood on the counter to dry or should i move it to a more balanced spot ?
Cheers
I have a very sunny kitchen can i leave the wood on the counter to dry or should i move it to a more balanced spot ?
Cheers
Corradobrit1
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Would not expose to direct sunlight. A handsander is not expensive and will remove the surface contamination. Then lather on the mineral oil or a mix of mineral oil and beeswax.
Ah this is a misconception i thought palm sander is something like https://www.amazon.de/MAXXT-Exzente...hwindigkeit-Trockenbauschleifen/dp/B0BPM643YS.
I got a "Schleifklotz" handsander palm sander :`)
I got a "Schleifklotz" handsander palm sander :`)
Sand first!!!!!
Do not leave it in direct sunlight. It'll warm and dry unevenly.
Also, sand before oiling. Sanding block is fine. Just make sure to sand everywhere evenly. Can pay a little extra attention to anywhere that may be higher/less worn than the rest of the board (like the corner areas usually), if needed.
Thanks for all your help!
I started sanding and left the board on the floor over night. Is it possible that it curved because the floor was so cold ? My flat is parterre and it was pretty cold last night.
Anyway i realised that sandingpaper from the hardware store is crap... it clumped up very fast and i was just pressing instead of cutting.
Is it worth to get something like Indasa, Klingspor, Mirka or Starke ?
Cheers
I started sanding and left the board on the floor over night. Is it possible that it curved because the floor was so cold ? My flat is parterre and it was pretty cold last night.
Anyway i realised that sandingpaper from the hardware store is crap... it clumped up very fast and i was just pressing instead of cutting.
Is it worth to get something like Indasa, Klingspor, Mirka or Starke ?
Cheers
aporigine
The slow blade penetrates the winter squash
I’d say so.
Quality abrasives are more expensive, but more than pay for themselves with the amount of frustration they save.
To emphasize something...
Both Tung and Linseed are 'drying' oils. Exposure to oxygen causes polymerisation and they cure to a hard surface. Don't use them on a chopping board.
You want mineral oil, and because it's end grain and quite dry looking - you'll want a lot of it.
Also - 'food safe' vs not 'food safe' mineral oil probably makes the square root of f all difference, it's gonna be exactly the same stuff. Just that one comes in a smaller bottle that costs ten times as much, because it's been certified.
(Don't sue me if you get sick though, yh.
)
Both Tung and Linseed are 'drying' oils. Exposure to oxygen causes polymerisation and they cure to a hard surface. Don't use them on a chopping board.
You want mineral oil, and because it's end grain and quite dry looking - you'll want a lot of it.
Also - 'food safe' vs not 'food safe' mineral oil probably makes the square root of f all difference, it's gonna be exactly the same stuff. Just that one comes in a smaller bottle that costs ten times as much, because it's been certified.
(Don't sue me if you get sick though, yh.
)In fact the whole idea of 'food safe' for chopping board oils is irrelevant. Imagine how little of it you're ingesting. You'd need to soak your board in arsenic after every use to possibly see a side effect from that kind of thing.
Maybe don't use peanut oil if you have a peanut allergy. Otherwise - go wild. Lots of other things are going to kill you before the chopping board oil does.
Maybe don't use peanut oil if you have a peanut allergy. Otherwise - go wild. Lots of other things are going to kill you before the chopping board oil does.
Last edited:
Frickin' thank you. Just put some mineral oil on it, oh my lord this thread.To emphasize something...
Both Tung and Linseed are 'drying' oils. Exposure to oxygen causes polymerisation and they cure to a hard surface. Don't use them on a chopping board.
You want mineral oil, and because it's end grain and quite dry looking - you'll want a lot of it.
Also - 'food safe' vs not 'food safe' mineral oil probably makes the square root of f all difference, it's gonna be exactly the same stuff. Just that one comes in a smaller bottle that costs ten times as much, because it's been certified.
(Don't sue me if you get sick though, yh.
