It's not just about toughness... it's also about the profile. The two main virtues for me in a honesuki is that you both get a really small and agile tip, and it's easy as pie to sharpen - even at the tip area. Compared to western boning knives; they tend to be narrow along the whole blade and then have this curve at the front... which sees the most use yet is the most difficult to sharpen (at least to me).
Never used that Mune petty but it looks a little bit on the tall side for me to fall in love with it for boning work. I just don't see myself poking that tip into a joint to cut a tendon.
When it comes to thickness... personally I think I'd lean mostly towards the sturdier side if that's all I had to choose between... but most of all I'd go for the 'this is a work knife approach'. No super fancy ultra hard steel, no super fancy handles (especially when you're an amateur who's likely to get both hands dirty). If you're new to this you're unlikely to have flawless technique and precision from the get go. I sure as hell didn't.
Personally I like that mine has pakkawood handles so I can just clean the handle with liberal amounts of hot water and soap without worrying about the handle falling apart in no-time. The blade on mine is a bit on the thin side and if I could change anything about it I'd give it a bit more heft in the blade. I agree on more substantial handles being nice (compared to the usually quite anemic petty handles); it's one of the things I really like about mine.
Using it as a petty; I mostly never tried it much because I'm not much of a petty user in the first place; I tend to only use the mid length knives for meat work. Shape feels a tad awkward for board work though. I'm sure you could make it work somehow but I'd mostly wonder why.
When it comes to the edge; I do that 99/1 thing, even if mostly because it's really easy and fast to sharpen.