2nd time at kasumi finish, ehhhh

[brianh]

Practicing on a free knife that had some rust. Started on gesshin 400, then 2000, then jinzo aoto. Not horrible but I need guidance. I'm trying to push the shinogi up a bit, then go back and hit near the edge to the edge. I feel like I'm rolling near the edge.

Also, scratches have to be from me wobbling and not getting a uniform finish at each progression?

Any an all input welcomed!

 

[Grunt173]

Practicing on a free knife that had some rust. Started on gesshin 400, then 2000, then jinzo aoto. Not horrible but I need guidance. I'm trying to push the shinogi up a bit, then go back and hit near the edge to the edge. I feel like I'm rolling near the edge.

Also, scratches have to be from me wobbling and not getting a uniform finish at each progression?

Any an all input welcomed!

View attachment 38053View attachment 38054

Read what Jon has to say about that stone on the website.Sounds like it will leave some scratches because it is a medium stone and not a finishing stone.Also,he mentions you have to create a mud to smooth things out.I don't have that stone but just trying to help out the best I can.With that said,your knife looks pretty darn good to my eyes.

 

[valgard]

This looks like a little deba/ajikiri? That will be a difficult knife to get you started in general, at least near the tip and especially in the curved area. Try to get a very even finish with uniform scratch pattern on the 400 before moving up, also u probably want a 1K after the 400 to delete the 400mm scratches. Can do the grinding perpendicular to the edge or diagonal and then move to parallel to the edge for the 1K and up (for polishing) make sure you have deleted the scratches from previous stone and have uniform scratch pattern before moving up. For polishing big jumps are not the best idea. That is just some basics but should get u started hopefully.
Cheers,
Carlos

 

[chinacats]

In my mind you're combining 2 different processes. While I'm sure it can be done that way, I would do the grinding/thinning and then go thru whatever progression it takes to clean/finish it to your liking.

 

[brianh]

Thanks for the input!

 

[brianh]

Assuming only double bevel knives...

Are both the secondary and primary bevels treated exactly the same during normal progression and then finishing?

For example, would you start with say a 400 grit synthetic on the larger primary bevel, then blend into the smaller secondary bevel as you move up the progression? When finally done with thinning and sharpening the bevels, then finish both primary and secondary bevels with a jnat?

Most videos I see seem to hint that the hagane and jigane are both flat,which is not the case.

Thanks.

 

[unprofessional_chef]

I think you mean single bevel if that knife is similar to a deba. This video covers how you should grind the primary and secondary bevel. Yes, in normal sharpening you would remove the same amount of material in both primary and secondary bevel. The primary bevel should be as flat as possible. Pushing the shinogi line up... pay attention to the where you're applying downward pressure (jump to 2m25s in the video). And lighten up on pressure, build more mud as you approach the finishing stones. You want to keep the scratches uniform and in one direction.


[video=youtube;kA0vdeDDSJI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA0vdeDDSJI[/video]

 

[brianh]

Thanks. I did mean double bevel, my practice knife is a mini deba im using just to try practicing. Not ideal but it was free.

 

[valgard]

Assuming only double bevel knives...

Are both the secondary and primary bevels treated exactly the same during normal progression and then finishing?

Normally I do. I some special cases for a specific effect you might want to hit the core with a different stone (typically to get a bright core and foggier cladding).

Sometimes the whole bevel is flattened but I do convex for most of my knives even though that makes polishing a more difficult task.