cabarete_cub
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 73
- Reaction score
- 0
Please take a look at the pictures. What would you do? The knife: http://imgur.com/Jixh201. The most damaged part: http://imgur.com/YUU6QCS
Blade restoration advice needed.
- Thread starter cabarete_cub
- Start date
Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:
ThEoRy
Founding Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2011
- Messages
- 4,648
- Reaction score
- 26
I would just sharpen it out. The real problem is the full bolster you have there. That needs to be ground down to the level where the repair would take place at least. That's why many here don't **** with that style of knife. It's a pain in the ass to sharpen and repair.
- Joined
- May 3, 2011
- Messages
- 9,820
- Reaction score
- 4,538
And the steel is very abrasion resistant.
Like others have said, it's a screwed situation. Even if you totally remove the chip and get the profile to where it's supposed to be, you would have to lose quite a bit of steel and knife height proportionally. I'd buy a cheap Harbor Freight belt sander, some decent belts and go to town on that knife as a practice.
If you want to use the easy button, I suggest you punt to someone like Dave Martell. (He hates me now...) Or replace knife with another Henckels.
Hand grinding the blade and bolster would prob be 8 - 12 hours with stones you prob don't have. (DMT plates come to mind for a repair, xc, c, m, f. ) From the fine plate go to something like a 1200 Bestor.
Hand grinding the blade and bolster would prob be 8 - 12 hours with stones you prob don't have. (DMT plates come to mind for a repair, xc, c, m, f. ) From the fine plate go to something like a 1200 Bestor.
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2013
- Messages
- 1,510
- Reaction score
- 8
Horizontal Belt grinder to remove enough steel including some of the bolster to get rid of the chip (I'd use my 2 x42 Ryobi from Home Depot for this) and then, of course, you end up with what would pass for a very expensive butter knife. So there is more work to be done!
Also be sure to wet it constantly while using the grinder or your will screw up the heat treat.
The next step is to thin it as you have moved up the face quite a bit (probably I would do that with a horizontal belt grinder but that can be scary and you could ruin the knife pretty easily) but I get lazy on abrasion resistant steels and use my vertical grinder on them instead of stones usually.
The final step after thinning is to put a new edge on it using a full set of stones or a vertical belt grinder. (Then see if you have to thin some more...
)
I actually learned a lot about grinding working on knives like this with various kinds of grinders - on the other hand I ruined a bunch of cheap knives in the leaning process
With grinders you could probably do it in less than an hour with diamond plates it would be a whole day job
Also be sure to wet it constantly while using the grinder or your will screw up the heat treat.
The next step is to thin it as you have moved up the face quite a bit (probably I would do that with a horizontal belt grinder but that can be scary and you could ruin the knife pretty easily) but I get lazy on abrasion resistant steels and use my vertical grinder on them instead of stones usually.
The final step after thinning is to put a new edge on it using a full set of stones or a vertical belt grinder. (Then see if you have to thin some more...
)I actually learned a lot about grinding working on knives like this with various kinds of grinders - on the other hand I ruined a bunch of cheap knives in the leaning process
With grinders you could probably do it in less than an hour with diamond plates it would be a whole day job
milkbaby
Well-Known Doofus
+1 WingKKF and glc's belt sanding suggestion. I wouldn't wear down diamond plates on that knife, not worth the cost of the plate or my time.
Use a file on the bolster
