Cherry knife and board

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Active Member
Sep 6, 2011
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Hope this is the right section to put this, if not Mods feel free to move it or let me know where it better belongs and I'll re-post there.

I have a good friend who's help and support has been invaluable to me. I think I can say, without exaggeration, that without his help I would not be able to do what I do. And for that I will likely never be able to thank him enough. I've just made my first personally sized butcher block and matching knife set so as a small token I gave it to him as a gift this past weekend. I was pleased with how it turned out so I thought I'd share it here.

cherry block 1.jpgcherry block 2.jpgcherry block 3.jpgcherry block 4.jpgcherry chef1.jpg

The block is air cured cherry framed in maple, the front and back is faced with figured cherry and I applied cherry handles flush to the sides. The frame and handles are secured with walnut dowels that penetrate well into the block center. The knife scales are cherry and pinned with walnut dowels as well to compliment the board. Both pieces were treated with boiled lye and rinsed with slacked lime to bring out the natural color of the woods. The block was finished with several rubbings of pure tung oil and bees wax. The knife scales were finished in with 6 rubbed coats of a quality clear satin spar resin varnish to withstand regular soaking/washing. The blade is Japanese AUS 8 high carbon SS and a rolled edge was applied with 6 stepped bevels on the tormak at 1k, polished out on hard white Arkansas and finished on a pasted strop. It's about 12.6 inches overall length with a 8.7 inch cutting edge. .070 thickness at the spine tapering to 0 at the tip and has a very slight convex grind, practically flat ground. Hardness testing places the blade between 57-58 with some hardness being sacrificed for toughness and flexibility. I should be clear that I didn't make the blade but bought it on the recommendation of other knife-makers who do work and heat treat their own steel as an example of an affordable quality blank. I then tuned the blade to my specs for the owner. The blank was semi bright polished and the spine softened for comfort. It has a double bevel design and the rolled edge gives an almond shaped cross-section, as opposed to wedge shaped, to give a smoother cutting action. The bevel is slightly offset to show a preference for right hand use, but may be used by either hand. The blade has a full tang and the scales have a taper of 3/16 from butt to bevel and 1/16 from center to the edge which has slightly over a 1/8 radius round. All shaping on the scales was done with cabinet makers rasps and files. I did not weigh the complete knife as I should have but it is very light as every one who has held it has commented. The balance is right at the bevel where the scales meet the blade. It took a very nice edge that easily dry shaved my forearm and will pop a hair at about 1/2 inch. It slices straight and true without wander in the right hand. My camera is pretty lousy so the one pic of the knife is less than I would like and the one showing the taper to the scales didn't turn out at all. enough with the excuses here are the pics.
You're a very talented woodworker! I think they look great! Very nicely done.
That board is more fit for my wall than my counter. I would feel bad cutting on it!
Very nicely done sir.

That board and knife look awesome! Keep up the great work.
Really beautiful work. Your friend will be blown away, no doubt!