inferno
( Ķ”Ā° ĶŹ Ķ”Ā°) <*))))><
i read somewhere that a chinese carbon fiber worker has a lifetime of around 2-3 years so its not really that healthy it seems.
So you both agree there are no over grinds near or on the edge?Just a quick update for posterity... I brought the Mabs back to the shop and the shop owner and myself went over the knife together. We also compared it to a Denka.
Conclusion was that the Mabs has a 'wavier' (for lack of a better word) grind than that particular Denka he had. Perfectly usable though. The shop owner gave me some more time to think it over, basically because he left for a vacation.
Just a quick update for posterity... I brought the Mabs back to the shop and the shop owner and myself went over the knife together. We also compared it to a Denka.
Conclusion was that the Mabs has a 'wavier' (for lack of a better word) grind than that particular Denka he had. Perfectly usable though. The shop owner gave me some more time to think it over, basically because he left for a vacation.
Well, not to the point where Iād be faced with a hole down the road.So you both agree there are no over grinds near or on the edge?
The thought did cross my mind... But at some point I got the feeling he was selling me the Denka, e.g. by saying its grind was less of an issue. The Denka comes in at 600 though, versus the 300 I paid for the Mabs.great opportunity for you to pick up the denka
At least he did help you and gave you some time - albeit self-helping in the process - to think about it.
This whole situation makes me wonder if there wouldn't be a way to assess how much work there is. Of course it wouldn't talk much about the "depth" of an overgrind, but possibly painting the bevel with washable marker and thinning on a towel wrapped around the stone? Where paint wasn't removed, one could use a caliper and try to see if any painted spot left is a real problem. I feel most overgrinds of your decently ground bevel is a matter of "undergrinds" surrounding it - where paint was removed is because the knife is thicker there, not ground enough, not necessarily ground too heavily where paint wasn't removed.
If you use a fine compound, it won't leave any scratches. Something like 1 micron or smaller diamond paste will slowly rub off the sharpie. If you keep at it, it'll make it shiny.Never worked with loaded strops, but I'm assuming you understood that the goal was to do that without scratching or abrading anything, so that you know from experience that any compound won't visibly scratch?
It'd only be loaded for a little bit. Might cause you to become loaded thoughA better one than having an acetone loaded bare balsa strop, you mean?
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