Deep rust removal

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Happy holidays everyone
With all this free time I decided to do my first ever knife restoration project.
I don't have access to any tools so this is a stones and sandpaper only project. I started with 140 grit sandpaper which did a great job removing most of the rust,but under that layer there were deep pits as you can (hopefully) see.
Should I keep grinding down? Or is it okay to leave them?
Any tips or advice would help,
Thanks

IMG_20181231_001214.jpg IMG_20181231_000359.jpg
 
I wld .that by now you wld have lost at least ard 25 grams.. main consideration wld be thin it wld become.

rgds Z
 
Use 120 (or 140) until you don't see any more rust at all.
Then work your progression through the grits--220, 320... upto hoever high you like (800, 1500, or whatever you like).
With each grit, go heel to toe with long strokes. Short strokes or back and forth strokes can make "fish hooks" in the scratch pattern. Use a backer.

The pitting won't go away but it will also round out a bit (if that makes sense).
 
Have you tried the sabitoru rust removers? They’re not expensive. 13 on amazon as of now
 
Happy holidays everyone
With all this free time I decided to do my first ever knife restoration project.
I don't have access to any tools so this is a stones and sandpaper only project. I started with 140 grit sandpaper which did a great job removing most of the rust,but under that layer there were deep pits as you can (hopefully) see.
Should I keep grinding down? Or is it okay to leave them?
Any tips or advice would help,
Thanks

/QUOTE]

Unless it is on the edge itself I personally would not bother with trying to get the rust-damage ground out. The pits will not affect the performance of the knife.

However, if it is for aesthetic reasons then go your hardest
 
Try using bar keeper's friend (which is oxalic acid plus an mild abrasive) to react with the rust remove some of it, or at least the more red parts.
 

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