Heavy Chef's Knife - A New Project

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I have a Western handle design in my head that would have a heavy bolster (a guard) and if needed, a metal endcap. Along with the weight of the handle, I am pretty sure I can bring the balance point closer to the handle even on heavy knives.

I am going to solicit more of feedback on the gap before I make a decision, but consensus seems to emerge that a wide gap is not necessary.

M
 
I would start the bolster right after the choil, no gap. And I like knife to be blade heavy, even in a pinch grip I want the blade to balance in front of my pinch.
 
JohnnyChance said:
I would start the bolster right after the choil, no gap. And I like knife to be blade heavy, even in a pinch grip I want the blade to balance in front of my pinch.
Click to expand...

It's quite difficult to start a bolster without any gap with S geometry (think Shigefusa Western handle). On full convex blades it should not be a problem. In any event, I will try to keep the gap as small as possible.

M
 
What are your thoughts on 255mm heavy chef's, with one of the geometries (Mizuno, Kato, Heiji), with a Western handle, Coca-Cola shape, in PM stainless, 62-63RC?
 
Ground my first true asymmetric grind. So far so good. Taking blade home for test cutting. Pics tomorrow.

This one will have a western handle with SS bolster.

M
 
I love a good western. Dirty Harry was the man.
 
Ok, this knife is almost ready to be sent for testing (almost - still am working on the handle).

Steel - Stainless PM#2, 62-63RC.

Final weight will be in the area of 270g. Length on the edge 253mm
 
No, unfortunately it is written off as an error in my trial-and-error book. There will be a replacement for it in the same steel and geometry. Making some progress on Western handle as well, but that too has a learning curve.
 
Marko Tsourkan said:
No, unfortunately it is written off as an error in my trial-and-error book. There will be a replacement for it in the same steel and geometry. Making some progress on Western handle as well, but that too has a learning curve.
Click to expand...

Here is the experimental error - undue force will break even steel. I guess, I could make a nice small knife out of this. :(

A positive thing - I got to see the grain to evaluate HT (in addition to other tests) and the grain is extremely fine and uniform, so I feel pretty confident about the HT for this steel.

20131003_150059.jpg
 
Lesson learned - don't force (hammer) a thick guard on the tang unless you file the slot to slightly below the thickness of the tang. Other than that, the Western handle project is on track. Right now I am finalizing the joinery and shape.

M
 
I don't think welding is possible. I cold shorten the blade and make it a 225mm western gyuto.
 
I have been working on this project for some time now, and have to admit that all geometries that I selected have pros and cons, but all will make pretty good heavy workhorse gyuto.

I have been soliciting feedback from a small group of people, but I think I need to widen the pool, so I know how the knives are received in a wider community.

I decided to make a few knives in each geometry, in different steels (carbon and stainless) and get them out into public.

The first few will be in 255mm lengh, in modified convex geometry, in A2 and 52100. There are no preorders or reservations on these as I will work on these around my other projects. Once they are done, I will post them in for sale in my subforum.

Handle option will be cocobolo or Lignum Vitae and both will come with sayas and D handles for a right hand use. Left-hand user handles will be an option for custom and future ready-made knives.

I prefer D handles over octagonal because I think they are better suited for heavy, long work sessions (many of you probably remember, that I used to make octagonal handles). D shape makes more sense to me, and I am willing to spend more time making handles in this style (D style in generally is harder to make then octagonal), not for any other reason.

Thanks,

M
 
Just want to add that these will have a vary special HT, so performance wise should exceed expectations.

M
 
What would be a handle preference for a heavy workhorse chef (240-270mm), Wa or Western? I am mulling a hybrid of both, with D mounted on a knife without a neck (machi) and ferrule taper all the way to the blade. Transition between handle and heel will be seamless, and between spine and handle, handle will be raised by 1-2mm.

M
 
Marko Tsourkan said:
What would be a handle preference for a heavy workhorse chef (240-270mm), Wa or Western? I am mulling a hybrid of both, with D mounted on a knife without a neck (machi) and ferrule taper all the way to the blade. Transition between handle and heel will be seamless, and between spine and handle, handle will be raised by 1-2mm.

M
Click to expand...

The heavy convex will have a D handle tapered all the way to the blade, and 5mm neck and is to go out for testing on Monday.

Thanks for looking.
 
Marko Tsourkan said:
What would be a handle preference for a heavy workhorse chef (240-270mm), Wa or Western? I am mulling a hybrid of both, with D mounted on a knife without a neck (machi) and ferrule taper all the way to the blade. Transition between handle and heel will be seamless, and between spine and handle, handle will be raised by 1-2mm.

M
Click to expand...

Worked on it over the weekend, almost done, pics later today.

I think I am onto something.

M
 
Marko Tsourkan said:
Worked on it over the weekend, almost done, pics later today.

I think I am onto something.

M
Click to expand...

Please forgive for a poor quality pictures.

Heavy gyuto in 52100 with a hybrid D - D style handle on a Western style blade. 230mm on the edge. Neck width about 4.5mm. Handle - fiddle-back maple, blackwood and brass.

This was an experiment, so with subsequent knives, the length on the blade is going to be 255-270mm, ferrule length will be longer, and there will be contrasting (same as ferrule) butt cap.

I am not sure if this is limited to heavy knives, but shorter neck seems to make whole a lot of sense to me. I think with a balance point closer to a handle, this allows for a better control of the knife.

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