Help with Hidden Tang Design

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tostadas

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Hey folks, I'm looking to order some custom cut profiles in thin stock for a couple projects. I'm curious what considerations I should make with regard to length, thickness, height, shape etc. One of them is going to be for a very small handle (maybe like 15mm tall), so I guess I don't want it to snap or something at the connection.
 
^ What B said.

My answer might change but... first thing - I'd get the blade and tang hardened together uniformly.

On the Tosa blades I work with a lot I sometimes mod or alter the tang slightly to make it more uniform / easier to drill the slot for. Occasionally you come across one where the tang has been ht-ed along with the blade, and it's very noticeable... hardened steel is hard! And seriously difficult to deform or break.
 
What re the dimentions of the blade and use case?
^ What B said.

My answer might change but... first thing - I'd get the blade and tang hardened together uniformly.

On the Tosa blades I work with a lot I sometimes mod or alter the tang slightly to make it more uniform / easier to drill the slot for. Occasionally you come across one where the tang has been ht-ed along with the blade, and it's very noticeable... hardened steel is hard! And seriously difficult to deform or break.
Currently thinking about doing a thin veggie cleaver around 210x90ish. I much prefer a shorter stubby handle to a long Japanese octo for this style, so I'd like to get a rough idea of appropriate minimum tang dimension.
 
Currently thinking about doing a thin veggie cleaver around 210x90ish. I much prefer a shorter stubby handle to a long Japanese octo for this style, so I'd like to get a rough idea of appropriate minimum tang dimension.

Ah ok... I don't know if this helps in any way, but here's a picture of a similarly sized knife I'm working on atm. The tang is actually a bit thicker than the start of the spine at around 4mm. I terms of width it goes down quickly to 1cm +/- a few mms for most of the length. Length I've cut it off to 8cm, which is plenty. Though I also like shorter stubbier handles on this kind of thing, and it'll mean careful drilling as the tang will extend almost all the way to the bottom. (And as I think you might have seen on my ig - I do it by hand... cleaver handles like this are a nightmare!):

IMG_1974 (1).jpg


It might also depend on how the knife is going to be held. I use a two fingered pinch grip on knives like this with my fingers running down the outside of the blade in a v-shape. Used like this there's very little stress on the tang/handle, though if someone's holding it with a hammer grip it'd be more of an issue.

I'd have thought 1cm x 3mm x 5cm should be alright...
 
Ah ok... I don't know if this helps in any way, but here's a picture of a similarly sized knife I'm working on atm. The tang is actually a bit thicker than the start of the spine at around 4mm. I terms of width it goes down quickly to 1cm +/- a few mms for most of the length. Length I've cut it off to 8cm, which is plenty. Though I also like shorter stubbier handles on this kind of thing, and it'll mean careful drilling as the tang will extend almost all the way to the bottom. (And as I think you might have seen on my ig - I do it by hand... cleaver handles like this are a nightmare!):

View attachment 134462

It might also depend on how the knife is going to be held. I use a two fingered pinch grip on knives like this with my fingers running down the outside of the blade in a v-shape. Used like this there's very little stress on the tang/handle, though if someone's holding it with a hammer grip it'd be more of an issue.

I'd have thought 1cm x 3mm x 5cm should be alright...
Have you ripped the handle off of a CCK slicer? Any idea what the tang on that looks like inside? The blade portion is similar to what I'm trying to go for.
 
Have you ripped the handle off of a CCK slicer? Any idea what the tang on that looks like inside? The blade portion is similar to what I'm trying to go for.

Aye, that's what I figured... that picture above is actually a Leung Tim Sangdao #2, same size as the CCK 1302, so basically what you're going for, maybe marginally taller blade. I have also done to CCK - tangs are identical. Obviously though both are hammered round the wood at the end, so then I saw the end of the tang off.

The dimensions @branwell quoted above is kinda what the ones I do normally work out as. The dimensions I put were what I thought would be a safe minimum.

Hope that helps!
 
Aye, that's what I figured... that picture above is actually a Leung Tim Sangdao #2, same size as the CCK 1302, so basically what you're going for, maybe marginally taller blade. I have also done to CCK - tangs are identical. Obviously though both are hammered round the wood at the end, so then I saw the end of the tang off.

The dimensions @branwell quoted above is kinda what the ones I do normally work out as. The dimensions I put were what I thought would be a safe minimum.

Hope that helps!
Excellent, that's really helpful info!
 

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