My first knife, Would like some advice.

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

So. After a bit of research and seeing what was available I bought an old HC F dick chefs knife 10 in

have better image but dont know how to attach from PC.

What I was hoping you all could tell me what angle should I put on the blade for optimal performance.

How old is it?

and can anyone give me a little history on the F. Dick knife I purchased?


and when I eventually get around to re handling it what are some examples of things that can be done that are amazing? I have seen some really nice forge craft re handle jobs

 

[Benuser]

A narrow fingerguard without a full bolster: typical for the twenties and later if made for the North-American market. In Europe people expected a full bolster in later years.

If you upload your photo to an image host you get a link you may post here. Something like this, with postimage.org:

(Robert Herder 1922 series)
Your knife looks quite OK. No reverse belly or protruding fingerguard, or damaged tip as far as I can see.
I would start at the lowest angle you're comfortable with. For a first sharpening, I normally go on with that very low angle on both sides until I raise a burr. Once a relief bevel created the final bevel will be very narrow and easily maintained. For the final edge I would try something like 15 degrees per side and see how it works.

 

[Benuser]

About the handle: see what it looks like after oiling it and wrapping in cling film for a few days.

 

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

What does the cling film do and what oil would you recommend use? and does anyone have experience with old F dick knives? what would be the recommended grit/stones to buy for the knife as well as what would be a good steel to pair with it. this is my only kitchen knife aside from random crap from china that cant cut butter for more than a day that my wife has.

 

[Benuser]

These old carbons are excellent performers once they are well-thinned and yours has a pleasant French profile. The Dicks of that generation are among the best you may find.
Steel is in general C75, finely grained, and can get incredibly sharp. Edge retention is not that spectacular, but maintenance very easy. I wouldn't use a steel or ceramic rod if it's only used at home. Better strop it on your finest stone, or leather, or cardboard.
As for the stones: the carbon (non-stainless) steel isn't very abrasive resistant. I would use my Chosera / Naniwa Pro 400, 800 and finally 3k. Some use even a 8k for maintenance.

But you may very well build that relief bevel (=perform thinning) with a 600 or 800.
Basic function of the finer stone is to complete the deburring. But stropping on cardboard will reduce the burr already a lot. These are the easiest knives to sharpen.
I use cling film to restrain oil evaporation or hardening.

 

[Benuser]

By the way: where do you live? That may be decisive when looking for stones, as prices and availability may vary a lot.

 

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

These old carbons are excellent performers once they are well-thinned and yours has a pleasant French profile. The Dicks of that generation are among the best you may find.
Steel is in general C75, finely grained, and can get incredibly sharp. Edge retention is not that spectacular, but maintenance very easy. I wouldn't use a steel or ceramic rod if it's only used at home. Better strop it on your finest stone, or leather, or cardboard.
As for the stones: the carbon (non-stainless) steel isn't very abrasive resistant. I would use my Chosera / Naniwa Pro 400, 800 and finally 3k. Some use even a 8k for maintenance.

But you may very well build that relief bevel (=perform thinning) with a 600 or 800.
Basic function of the finer stone is to complete the deburring. But stropping on cardboard will reduce the burr already a lot. These are the easiest knives to sharpen.
I use cling film to restrain oil evaporation or hardening.

By the way: where do you live? That may be decisive when looking for stones, as prices and availability may vary a lot.

Back in NC I have alot of stuff including a tormek and several stones for whatever needs to be sharp.

that said. I am currently in eastern Europe Ukraine to be precise. and the options for generally anything quality is hard to find. nicest knives I have found is one store carrying wustof so far in the whole city same store had peugot pepper mills only place i can find for those too.


as for sharpening options I have yet to find any so as with the knife. its getting sent to my house in the states, my father will do an initial sharpening at 1000 and then use the 4000 wheel and then i will order whatever stones
if you had to recommend a hone what would you recommend? and what would you recommend for a blade angle for optimal performance .

DO you think there is a way to pin to within +- 10 years when it was made?

 

[Benuser]

If you link a better photo the logo will become recognisable. Often there's documentation available about logo evolution in time. And F. Dick can certainly tell you from there on.
The choice of an final edge angle after thinning is a very personal one. Once the blade thinned performance will not that much affected by a conservative edge, but edge retention will. Factors that are to be taken into account are your technique, board material and your expectations. That's why I suggested a middle of the road solution with a very thin relief bevel and a medium conservative 15 degrees per side final edge. That should perform very well. You may change it easily if needed afterwards, with only a few strokes.

 

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

So I did as you said but F dick only has photos going back to 1950. They told me to contact the soligen knife museum. their reply to my question as to its age and if there were other knives in the set was..

the knife is made around 1910 - 20. A cook/chief knife.
At this time it was possible to buy knives in the same style but in different sizes.
It varies, but mostly you have between 4 and 10 different blade lenghts.

Kind regards

Seems its got another few decades of work ahead of it.

 

[Benuser]

Excellent news! Thanks for sharing. So we have here a typical French profile with a modern full tang. Until the fifties the French used nogent handles with a rat-tail tang.
Could you tell us where is the balance point?

 

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

I will when I get it. its in the USA still my dad is going to sharpen it with the tormek but he showed me a video of him looking it over he said its in immaculate shape the edge angle is good but needs a little touch up and the handles are tight. I will take some detailed pictures in a few weeks when I receive it. he also said it has a nice musical ring if you flick it like a tuning fork

 

[HRC_64]

that knife has a nice profile,
...good find...please keep
us update on how it turns out

 

[rick alen]

The Tormek I think will be difficult to use with the full finger gaurd.

 

[Friend_of_Epicurius]

The Tormek I think will be difficult to use with the full finger gaurd.

the guard will be reprofiled with the blade it will still keep its original appearance.