Have you also tried the SG2 line?Takada (Yohei) is asymmetric and Myojin is symmetric. I prefer Myojin but my top 2 knives are the Takada dammy and the Tetsujin metal flow. My other Takada I did not like as much. Not sure if the non-dammy has a different grind or it’s natural variation. All 5 Myojins I’ve used have been stellar
Takada (Yohei) is asymmetric and Myojin is symmetric. I prefer Myojin but my top 2 knives are the Takada dammy and the Tetsujin metal flow. My other Takada I did not like as much. Not sure if the non-dammy has a different grind or it’s natural variation. All 5 Myojins I’ve used have been stellar
Yeah I've triedHave you also tried the SG2 line?
Seems atypical but maybe they changed at some point? I know I heard they were symmetric before I bought either of mine, but mine were both asymmetric. This Ginsan here looks very clearly asymmetric Takada no Hamono - Ginsanko - Suiboku - 240mm Gyuto - Ho Wood Handle.My Takada Ginsan is symmetric
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/knife-findings.38952/page-163#post-900056The Tanaka/Kikuchiyo Yohei Kasumi lines are not at all similar to the suiboku line. If anything its much closer to the slightly heavier and thicker Reika line. Based on my personal experience with a 240 reika, suiboku w1 & kikuchiyo yohei b2
FWIW I do think there was only 1 available at Miura, the stock doesnt seem to update instantly, unless someone else managed to luckily snag 1 as well?
Additionally, the JPY prices are cheaper than the USD prices on Miura, so if your credit card can accept foreign currencies with no surcharge, thats a better alternative.
Seems atypical but maybe they changed at some point? I know I heard they were symmetric before I bought either of mine, but mine were both asymmetric. This Ginsan here looks very clearly asymmetric Takada no Hamono - Ginsanko - Suiboku - 240mm Gyuto - Ho Wood Handle.
I just put a straight edge on mine and the right side is definitely way more convex than the back, which is nearly flat, and I remember the back side of the suiboku I had was flat as well.
How would you compare both?My Myojin SG2 is symmetric. My previous Myojin Kono FM in the same size was more right biased.
How does the tip in Suiboku compare to FM? The Suiboku pic on CKC looks like it have really nice taper down to a much thinner tip, I find the tip on my B2 FM still bit thicker than my taste and looks like Suiboku is better in that regard.My Takada dammy is the lighest and most laser-ish. The FMs and SG2 also are pretty laser-ish and light. Suiboku was in the same range, but less laser-ish and more food-release-y and substantial feeling while still being light and nimble. The Tetsujin is a little closer to a midweight, but still cuts well. I've heard the Tanaka Yohei and Reika are a bit more midweight-ish.Thick FM is the heaviest of course. All of these are good, but I would recommend FM for laser-ish, Tetsujin overall, and SG2 if you need stainless (given that all these others are full reactive). You probably won't be disappointed with any of them though.
The tip on the Suiboku I had was very meh. The tip on the Dammy is very good. I think it may just be inconsistent so you may be rolling the dice there.How does the tip in Suiboku compare to FM? The Suiboku pic on CKC looks like it have really nice taper down to a much thinner tip, I find the tip on my B2 FM still bit thicker than my taste and looks like Suiboku is better in that regard.
Got it, thank you!The tip on the Suiboku I had was very meh. The tip on the Dammy is very good. I think it may just be inconsistent so you may be rolling the dice there.
So weird how much variation there is. Pretty sure I stated this before somewhere but my yohei wh1 was a meh cutter (amazing heat treat) both takadas I’ve used were a lot more exceptional with grind.Takada (Yohei) is asymmetric and Myojin is symmetric. I prefer Myojin but my top 2 knives are the Takada dammy and the Tetsujin metal flow. My other Takada I did not like as much. Not sure if the non-dammy has a different grind or it’s natural variation. All 5 Myojins I’ve used have been stellar
I've heard a complaint before from someone who bought one early when they were super cheap that the grinds were inconsistent. My first one I thought I maybe it just wasn't for me but now I'm wondering if it was just a dud. I felt comfortable buying the dammy to try because I knew it would be easy to re-sell if it was like the first one, but I ended up loving it.So weird how much variation there is. Pretty sure I stated this before somewhere but my yohei wh1 was a meh cutter (amazing heat treat) both takadas I’ve used were a lot more exceptional with grind.
My Myojin SG2 is symmetric. My previous Myojin Kono FM in the same size was more right biased.
Despite the slightly different grind immediately behind the edge, overall the SG2 and Kono FM feel practically identical to me.How would you compare both?
Here are pictures of the spine and choil of my Kikuchiyo Yohei ginsan 240mm gyuto. The choil might look a bit thick, but the knife cuts really well and has surprisingly good food release for its thinness. I think that the grind is pretty even/symmetrical, and I haven’t had any issues with it as a lefty. I do wish that the tip was thinner though. In my (relatively inexperienced) opinion, I would call this knife a light mid weight knife. The approximate specs for this one is 225mmx46mm and 170g.
Nice! I am glad that you got the Suiboku ginsan that you initially wanted.I m glad you're digging the knife I finally got my hands on a Suiboku ginsan, which that knife was supposed to be lol.
After cutting some meats with my 240 tetsujin, I would say it feels somewhat similar to my 210 FM, length aside.
Potentially newb question here since I don’t have the finances myself to buy a lot of things, but is asymmetry really that big of a deal?
As a lefty yes. The left side will be near flat ground so will result in poor cutting performance
No. It can help steering but you won’t be easily able to change the fundamental geometry on a true asymmetric knife (many cheaper ones have an asymmetric edge only, not grind). FWIW I don’t think poor cutting performance is a given but it definirltely won’t cut as intendedthank you for the reply. Is that something that can be alleviated by sharpening? I think I saw something by Jon Broida that talks about sharpening being able to help with those issues in one of these recent threads
Enter your email address to join: