Naniwa Pro 1000, Shapton Glass 1000 or Naniwa Pro 800

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vk2109

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Hello
i need to replace my Naniwa Pro 1000 (as broke due to a kitchen accident) that i really liked,
so taking the opportunity to either makee a change by considering either
(1) Shapton Glass 1000
(2) Naniwa Pro 800 (as heard that the naniwa pro is more like a 1500+)
or stick with (3) Naniwa Pro 1000.

The other stones i use are
Shapton Glass 320 and Naniwa SS 5000 for VG10, V1, WS1 and WS2 knives .

Any suggestion/recos amng the 3 ? thanks
Vadim
 
Thanks ! if using the 800 in terms of progression is that still ok to go from the 800 naniwa pro to the 5000 naniwa SS (based on the stones i have) thx
 
I like the Naniwa Pro 800. Fast cutter and silky smooth. Cuts as fast a Shapton 1k to me but feels much better.
I like both, the Naniwa Pro 800 and the Shapton Glass 1000.

But if I compare the two, I would choose the Shapton Glass at any time.

I find it cuts faster, stays flat longer, I like the cutting edge it leaves better.

I even like the feedback better, but it's a question of personal preferences and habituation, I'm used to Shaptons.

In addition, the Shapton Glass has a cheaper price (at least in Germany) and has no problem with hairline cracks, unlike the Naniwa Pro.
 
The Naniwa Pro 800 offers great versatility, depending on the amount of pressure, mud, water you use. Expect an end result in the JIS1200 range. The tactile feedback is remarkable. You really feel when the very edge has been reached, or a burr gets removed.
 
It probably comes down to personal preference. The only thing I would like to add to what other have written above is the use case. By that I mean: would you every consider stopping after you mid-grit stone (e.g. for softer stainless knives)?
If so, the Chosera/Pro 1000 will give you a slightly more refined edge compared to the other two (which may or may not be an advantage).
If you don't stop after you mid-grit stone, I would lean towards the Chosera/Pro 800. Great stone, if you can live with the potential cracking issue.
If you were to consider other (soaking) stones as well, I'd suggest a Cerax 1k or one of the Gesshin stones from JKI.
 
It probably comes down to personal preference. The only thing I would like to add to what other have written above is the use case. By that I mean: would you every consider stopping after you mid-grit stone (e.g. for softer stainless knives)?
If so, the Chosera/Pro 1000 will give you a slightly more refined edge compared to the other two (which may or may not be an advantage).
If you don't stop after you mid-grit stone, I would lean towards the Chosera/Pro 800. Great stone, if you can live with the potential cracking issue.
If you were to consider other (soaking) stones as well, I'd suggest a Cerax 1k or one of the Gesshin stones from JKI.

Yes i have the Naniwa SS 5k i use afterwards.

Thank you all. I will give a shot on the Naniwa 800
 
From all the research I've done, the Naniwa 800 seems to be very popular. It's on my list for sure.
 
Found this thread. I just ordered a Naniwa 800 and 3000 so I'll be taking these for a spin in the next week. Any idea on how they wear and how often they need flattening?
 
This depends on how flat you want em.
 
I flatten any new stone and chamfer the edges, but I happen to have an Atoma 140. Some stones have an inactive crust that should be removed before you can use them. With the Naniwa Pros it's not that common, with the Shapton Glass it's the case with every single one I've got.
A fair chance your stones come ready for use out of the box. They dish very little, but some day you will need a diamond plate. Better buy it, if possible, sooner than later. A part of the fun with these stones is in varying mud, water, pressure. Nothing better than a diamond plate for raising mud — while you're still flattening.
Flattening such a stone when it shows dishing is late, and no fun at all.
 
Found this thread. I just ordered a Naniwa 800 and 3000 so I'll be taking these for a spin in the next week. Any idea on how they wear and how often they need flattening?

I have been using that setup and it's working like a charm
on my Gyuto (V1), petty (VG10) and Usuba+ Deba (WS) ! no need to flatten very often.


I am now just wondering if i need to add another pass with a 5000 ? i got a gouken Arata 5000 (i.e chosera) for $50 on amazon JP and wondering if need to go 5000 or stop at 3000...
if so which type of knife would you recommend among the one above would you recommend to do 5k grit.

so far 800-3000 is great !!

thx
Vadim
 
I also have a Atoma 140 so I will also do a light edge chamfer along with a regular light flattening so the dishing does not get out of control. I'm planning on some sharpening this weekend to see how the combo works.
 
Found this thread. I just ordered a Naniwa 800 and 3000 so I'll be taking these for a spin in the next week. Any idea on how they wear and how often they need flattening?

I don't remember them needing any flattening routine. But this will obviously vary depending on the usage. The idea is the they aren't problematic by default.
 
I have been using that setup and it's working like a charm
on my Gyuto (V1), petty (VG10) and Usuba+ Deba (WS) ! no need to flatten very often.


I am now just wondering if i need to add another pass with a 5000 ? i got a gouken Arata 5000 (i.e chosera) for $50 on amazon JP and wondering if need to go 5000 or stop at 3000...
if so which type of knife would you recommend among the one above would you recommend to do 5k grit.

so far 800-3000 is great !!

thx
Vadim
I found the Chosera 5k an unpleasant stone. Softer than I'm used to, but above all giving no feedback at all. In your case, as you have a Naniwa Pro 3k, I can't see much improvement to be expected at a 5k level. From time to time I use a Naniwa Junpaku 8k or a hard Arkansas after the 3k, but it's purely for fun. Be aware that the 3k leaves a 4k end result.
 
:Iagree:

From what i read, everytime the chosera 3k is mentioned it is said that the finish is a fair bit higher than the grittnumber says. So your chosera '3k' will be closer to a 5k than you might think.
Ofcourse there are 5k's that are coarser or give higher finish then their number tells you, but next to a chosera 3k it would be of little use.

I can imagine a rika 5k (which is often being said to finish around 4k?) is damn close to a chosera 3k in practise, while a superstone 5k will give your that extra shine you are expecting from 3k to 5k (superstones tend to finish higer than their number tells you).

If you want something after a chosera 3k, I would look further away than a 5k... Just to really be sure you get that 'next step in finishing' you probably aim for,
 
Thank you very much @Kawa @Benuser. Very helpful. may look into these. But my other is really,
how high i need to go for a Deba, Usuba, Gyuto....so far the chosera 3000 gives me very great results. Going to upper # may make the knife more brittle....

Thanks

Vadim
 
Don't think going higher does in general make an edge more brittle, but the benefit of a highly polished edge doesn't last — speaking only of double-bevelled knives, used in Western cuisine, with substantial board contact.
 
I'll just chime in with another vote on NP800. Pretty amazing stone that admittedly leaves an ugly finish (thinning work) but works well doing everything on steels ranging from 1.4110 to AS in my experience.

Also that it's less the idea of the type of knife you want your finishing stone to work on but the steel - which also defines how relevant it is to bring it past the fine kitchen edge of 3K-5K range, or even bring it there to start with. 1.4110 I either do a full on NP800 or finish from NP800 with SP2K.

Have fun!
 
My point is not to go against the grain, but I would not recommend NP800 (chosera) as part of the progression. I find myself seldom using it.
The stone is great on its own, and it is the stone I would keep if I only could have one. Its a very versatile.
But as part of progression, there are better 800 stones, better 1k stones, better 2K stones. And then, I usually finish on something along side 4-6K.
So, as it stands, it is not the stone I use a lot, however it is a great one.
 
My point is not to go against the grain, but I would not recommend NP800 (chosera) as part of the progression. I find myself seldom using it.
The stone is great on its own, and it is the stone I would keep if I only could have one. Its a very versatile.
But as part of progression, there are better 800 stones, better 1k stones, better 2K stones. And then, I usually finish on something along side 4-6K.
So, as it stands, it is not the stone I use a lot, however it is a great one.

Perhaps the OP would like to have specific suggestions of said better stones? I can always say there are a lot of better stones than NP3K for example, but if I don't provide with a suggestion of which, what's the point? I for one would like to hear your take on it - and add that to the legendary bulk of stones data around here.
 
Shapton Pro 1000
Shapton Glass 1000
King Hyper 1000 (from what I understand)
Gesshin 2k
And if OP is looking at more 600-800 grit then Chosera (NP) 400 is actually closer to this grit than NP800

Each of this stones are better for its grit than NP800, non of them come close to the versatility of Chosera 800 though.
 
Funnily enough I came to like my SP1K better since I have the NP800 - it's like a numbed and dumbed down straightforward version of the NP800 that is sometimes what I need or feel like in a progression.
 
SS800 and SS3000 is all you’ll ever need for day to day sharpening. I agree the SS5000 is a pain in the ass unless you use a slurry stone on it first which can change it into a great stone ok maybe not great but good. I have not flattened mine in two years and I check them frequently I think it’s more about really using all edges of the stones and that these stones are hard, I have flattened my SS400 a couple of times but it is a much softer stone.
 
SS800 and SS3000 is all you’ll ever need for day to day sharpening. I agree the SS5000 is a pain in the ass unless you use a slurry stone on it first which can change it into a great stone ok maybe not great but good. I have not flattened mine in two years and I check them frequently I think it’s more about really using all edges of the stones and that these stones are hard, I have flattened my SS400 a couple of times but it is a much softer stone.
Is it a typo, or you are reffering to Naniwa SuperStone in your post? Coz SS is not the same as NP (formerly Chosera).
 
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