Putting a Good “Grind” On a Sticky Knife?!?

Japanese Knives - by Tokushu Knife
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Dave Martell said:
Put the pennies back in your pocket. :thumbsup:

Maybe this can help...

Asymmetry - The REAL DEAL









The King 6k has never been a favorite of mine, seemed to always make things worse but I was a new sharpener back when I used it last.

My personal favorite general purpose stone in that range is the Suehiro Rika 5k. It makes for a really toothy edge that's sort of like a 3-4k yet refined and best of all it crunches down burrs nicely. It can make some single bevels look nice too but that's a side use type of thing.

The Chosera 3k is a pretty nice stone in this range too.

I use a Beston 500x, Bester 1200x, and Suehiro Rika 5k for almost all (small) double bevels, it's the core of my sharpening set up. Not everyone loves these stones though, especially the Beston 500x as this needs pressure to work correctly or it loads up from lack of capillary action. If you sharpen lightly this stone won't be your friend. The other two are winners and easy to use, they go together like peanut butter and jelly.

If the King 1k is your coarsest stone then this is your PRIMARY problem - fix this before moving on. :wink:







Most leather will work on some level. Getting a softer leather that has some draw/drag to it is nice to help with deburring but if it's too soft it'll round (dub) over your edge. It is important to mount the leather on a hard substrate to help it to resist movement and compression.

Maybe the ebay strop is good, who knows? It's always an experiment even if you do it yourself.

On compounds, avoid chromium oxide (the green stuff) as it's particles are round, it rounds an edge easily. It can also make for a very keen edge too. A keen smooth edge works great on a yanagiba but it's horrible for a gyuto. Think diamond compounds for a gyuto, they'll make for a toothy edge that grips those tomatoes.

Technique is pretty important when using a strop, especially a leather strop. I always see people going ballistic on their strops and they wonder why they ruined their edge or they say the strop sucks, etc.

See Stropping/De-Burring with Leather for some tips here.







You're welcome! :)
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Thanks for the stropping link!

Does it matter exactly what kind of leather? I found some at michaels that’s like an assorted pack of leather scraps, though most seems pretty tough, I assume this is good? Then I’m going to go up to hobby lobby tomorrow they should have a block of balsa wood for cheap so I can make my own. Thanks so much again for your help, it’s helped tremendously
 
panda said:
you can also soak amakusa first
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Oh okay... I didn’t know if it’d be okay. I think I soaked it the first time and I think I got a good slurry then.


On the strop, should I Just use a Balsa block with compound? Or should I use leather on the balsa? Should I use compound on every side? At least I’m going to do like 1micron and either .5 or .25micron on a block ... which would be better the .5 or .25 I’m comjuction with the 1.mic? Or I may do like saltys block and have four sides... 1. - .5 - .25 - (nothing? He uses an 1/8micron), should I do this? And should I use just balsa or add leather? Thanks so much
 
panda said:
dont bother with strop, that sh*t is stupid
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Why do you say that? I haven’t used one, I’ve just been using newspaper. But I want to make one so I don’t have to sharpen as much. I tried Murray Carters method the other day with a newspaper sheet on a stone, it was alright.
 
TEWNCfarms said:
Now this one just threw me for a loop! One of what?
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It's just trigonometry. Lay the blade flat on the stone. Raise the spine by half of the blade's height and you have made a 30 degree angle (sin 30 deg = 1/2).

Raise it by a third and you have about a 20 degree angle (sin 20 deg is about 1/3).

A quarter- you have about a 15 degree angle (sin 15 deg is about 1/4)

A fifth- you have about an 11.5 degree angle (sin 11.5 deg is about 1/5)

A sixth- About 9.5 degrees (sin 9.5 deg is about 1/6).
 
Rise over run to give slope. So if you lift the spine of a blade that is 60mm deep off the stone surface by 10mm, leaving the edge on the stone, you will have created a (roughly) 9.5 degree sharpening angle.
 
Nemo said:
It's just trigonometry. Lay the blade flat on the stone. Raise the spine by half of the blade's height and you have made a 30 degree angle (sin 30 deg = 1/2).

Raise it by a third and you have about a 20 degree angle (sin 20 deg is about 1/3).

A quarter- you have about a 15 degree angle (sin 15 deg is about 1/4)

A fifth- you have about an 11.5 degree angle (sin 11.5 deg is about 1/5)

A sixth- About 9.5 degrees (sin 9.5 deg is about 1/6).
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Ohhhh! Man that’s so crazy! I had no idea, thanks for that, that helps with a lot of different things!
 
As to your question about raising a slurry on the amakusa, I'd just use a diamond plate or diamond slurry stone. That is what I do on the harder amakusa. Mine is so soft it gets loaded with slurry when I look at it.
 
K813zra said:
As to your question about raising a slurry on the amakusa, I'd just use a diamond plate or diamond slurry stone. That is what I do on the harder amakusa. Mine is so soft it gets loaded with slurry when I look at it.
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Cool thanks
 
Looks a lot better, but the edge still seems to be rather jagged and might benefit from a bit more time in sharpening and a lot more effort in burr removal
 
JBroida said:
Looks a lot better, but the edge still seems to be rather jagged and might benefit from a bit more time in sharpening and a lot more effort in burr removal
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Okay cool thanks for the input
 
JBroida said:
Looks a lot better, but the edge still seems to be rather jagged and might benefit from a bit more time in sharpening and a lot more effort in burr removal
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When you say more time in sharpening, do you mean back to the rough grit or just medium grit? When I felt the edge and ran through paper I didn’t feel a burr anywhere on it... could it still have a burr? Usually I’ll feel it and it will get caught in paper or tear it
 
Yeah... burrs can feel very sharp and cut paper nicely, but may not hold up in actual cutting tasks. It may just be the pictures, but the edge does not look as clean as i would expect it to.
 
JBroida said:
Yeah... burrs can feel very sharp and cut paper nicely, but may not hold up in actual cutting tasks. It may just be the pictures, but the edge does not look as clean as i would expect it to.
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Cool thanks I’ll work on that
 
7jqZegOh.jpg


The wire edge in the third drawing can often cut paper well, but once you start cutting food or making board contact it won't be sharp. It will roll or break off in an irregular manner, which may be leading to the jagged look at the edge in your pics.
 
milkbaby said:
7jqZegOh.jpg


The wire edge in the third drawing can often cut paper well, but once you start cutting food or making board contact it won't be sharp. It will roll or break off in an irregular manner, which may be leading to the jagged look at the edge in your pics.
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Ahhh now that makes complete sense! What’s the best way to remove a wire edge? Cork? I didn’t think about the wire edge
 
nonoyes said:
First, take a sharpening stone in your left hand, and a knife in your right hand, and do some single-pass edge-leading stropping strokes...

https://youtu.be/EoRijNUQPAw

It probably works but it's still funny.
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You do know I was being facetious? The kid could prob tell you how to remove a pimple but anything knife related I'm asking a grownup...
 
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