Sharpening scratches

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The OP suggested that sandpaper only goes to 2500 grit. Automotive sandpaper that is purchased in a hardware store goes by "P" grit.

P2500 sandpaper in nothing like the micro-mesh abrasive (which uses "A" grit sizes) to which you have linked.

You are correct that 2500A micro-mesh will get you very close to mirror polish.
 
I think a mirror polish is a good option for those not a fan of patina in terms of stain resistance; albeit a touch higher maintenance, maybe.
 
On a very convex one, which therefore has to be quite thick.

Like my konosuke mioroshi deba. Mirror polish, thick, no problem with sticking. Gyuto may be different though.
 
I'll probably try the sandpaper thing or micromesh pad thing next week on my gyuto. I would like to make the knife face look better because i scratched it up a lot learning how to hit the edge correctly. Its beautiful at the heel but once it starts curving it looks really funny. What is the best way to go about this? Tape the bevel and go at it? or just go at it and sharpen again (carefully) after?

Also, even though tons of people say mirror finish is not worth it I still want to try....I think everybody wnats to try it once....I may not though,l depends if I have the willpower to stop sanding!
 
go at it and then sharpen it again. remember that you have to get all of the original scratches out first, so you'll have to start with fairly coarse paper.
 
If you use a powered buffer be prepared for the blade to fly across the room, possibly after going though you!
 
I have a question. How scratched up are everyone's knives? The ones I haven't thinned, there is maybe a few light scratches a little up the blade where my hand wobbled a little but they are barely noticeable. I ask this because I have seen on other forums the odd time someone posts a knife in BST and says there are a few light scratches and they seem very noticeable to me and are halfway up the blade. Is this usual or are everyone's knives more like mine where there is the odd scratch here and there? Just curious
 
other than thinned knives, i have the odd scratch here and there, mostly caused by very muddy stones abrading right above the bevel. when i first started out, however, it wasn't quite the case. i agree that often times what are described as "lightly used" or "slightly scratched" in a for sale ad are actually pretty heavily used and very un-slightly scratched!
 
I would suggest the utmost respect and care when dealing with a powered buffer. It is the most dangerous machine in the shop and has probably caused more injuries than all other machines combined.
 
I have a range of the yellow-backed, wet-dry 3M automotive sand paper that I have used progressively to get rid of scratches. It took a while, and you'll need to concentrate to keep a consistent scratch patter. Get a good vise. I then have some micro mesh pads if I want to take it up a step into mirror territory. Also some steels are more abrasion resistant and will take longer yet.

k.
 
I have a question. How scratched up are everyone's knives? The ones I haven't thinned, there is maybe a few light scratches a little up the blade where my hand wobbled a little but they are barely noticeable. I ask this because I have seen on other forums the odd time someone posts a knife in BST and says there are a few light scratches and they seem very noticeable to me and are halfway up the blade. Is this usual or are everyone's knives more like mine where there is the odd scratch here and there? Just curious

Depends on the steel. The softer and/or clad ones are pretty scratched up. My DT ITK has scratches on the left side from parsley stems and all sorts of stuff. My Hiro suji has a ton of scratches on the right hand side from salmon spines. My Shige has a couple small scratches from god knows what. My solid carbon knives seem to get less scratches.

I would refinish them, but meh, they would just get scratched again.
 
This is true, but even when I remove the patina or look carefully/closely, the aren't as scratched as my clad knives.
 
I understand that the cladding is for higher stain resistance, but still, does it have to be so soft? Are all clad knives prone to such scratching. The few I have, have turned me off...
 
Another function of the clad is shock absorption. Imagine the 0.5mm Aogami Super core in a Hiromoto AS without the soft clad of 2X 0.75mm. Would it survive in any kitchen?
 
And the softer steel is easier to work with and finish. Shigefusa would not be able to shape their blades they way they do if the cladding was hardened as much as the core is.
 

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