shinyunggyun
Banned
I've tried the yoshihiro 1000 stone before. It loads up like crazy. Made me mad. Cerax 1000 all the way.
Yoshihiro whetstones.
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What steel were you using?
shinyunggyun
Banned
I've sharpened my sukenari zdp 189, akazawa aogami super, yoshihiro hap 40, and yoshihiro vg 10 on it. loads up with every one of them. I use mostly white steel now, and have not sharpened any of my white steel knives on it however. But I wouldn't be surprised if it loads up with that steel also.
Hmm. Ok. Were some better than others? Or were they more or less all the same?
shinyunggyun
Banned
Same. It's not a good performing stone. I started using the Masahiro 1000 stone from knifemerchant next. The Masahiro completely outclassed that stone.
Good to know. What would you compare the masahiro to?
shinyunggyun
Banned
The Masahiro 1000 is the muddiest and fastest dishing medium grit stone I have used. The closest thing to a stone like this would be the Gesshin 1000. But I use neither of them too much anymore. I do sushi, and I have to sharpen my yanagiba constantly. And I find that it is much easier to do that on the Cerax 1000 because the Cerax doesn't dish as fast as the Gesshin or Masahiro. I like my stone to be as flat as it can be when sharpening my yanagiba. I use the Cerax for all my gyutos as well. I freakin love that cerax. And for my finishing stone, I use the Masahiro 3000. Unlike the Masahiro 1000, the 3000 doesn't dish as fast, and it is also a super smooth and great feeling stone to sharpen on. It is also possibly the cheapest high quality 3000 stone you can get.
Have you tried the shapton 1000 or chosera 800? Those both stay flat for quite a while, even better than the cerax. If you you haven't you should definitely give them a chance.
shinyunggyun
Banned
I tried them. I don't really like those ones. They are overly hard, and I don't like the way they feel. And their feedback is also not as great as everyone says.
mpier
Senior Member
Thanks for the input.
Steel+Fire
Well-Known Member
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Hello. I have the exact set of stones in question. The set was a gift from my sister 3 years ago for Christmas and I have used them extensively since then. I also have other brands and a couple JNats as well.
I think this is a solid set of stones but you can do much better buying individual stones. I also have the 400 grit Yoshihiro stone which I purchased later.
The 400 grit is great as is the 1000 grit. I see some people who mentioned that the 1000 grit glazes or loads very quickly. I just refresh the face of the stone with a nagura when I notice this so it has not been a huge issue to me. The 400 grit doesn't have this issue only the 1000 grit in my experience. The 3000 and to a lesser degree the 9000 grit stones (likely because I rarely use it) seem very muddy and do not feel gritty at all. They definitely remove metal as they produce muddy swarf while using them. I just do not like the feedback they provide. I have bought other high grit stones to find ones I like. The Suehiro Rika 5K is my favorite synthetic finisher right now for kitchen knives and it gets used in my progression most of the time. The 3000 grit Yoshihiro gets used too but when I do I usually start looking at 3000 grit options to replace it. Not sure I need to since I do not have issues producing good edges, I just do not like the waxy no friction feel as compared to other stones.
Like I said, you can do better getting individual stones. This was a great set of stones to get me started especially since it was a gift.
I think this is a solid set of stones but you can do much better buying individual stones. I also have the 400 grit Yoshihiro stone which I purchased later.
The 400 grit is great as is the 1000 grit. I see some people who mentioned that the 1000 grit glazes or loads very quickly. I just refresh the face of the stone with a nagura when I notice this so it has not been a huge issue to me. The 400 grit doesn't have this issue only the 1000 grit in my experience. The 3000 and to a lesser degree the 9000 grit stones (likely because I rarely use it) seem very muddy and do not feel gritty at all. They definitely remove metal as they produce muddy swarf while using them. I just do not like the feedback they provide. I have bought other high grit stones to find ones I like. The Suehiro Rika 5K is my favorite synthetic finisher right now for kitchen knives and it gets used in my progression most of the time. The 3000 grit Yoshihiro gets used too but when I do I usually start looking at 3000 grit options to replace it. Not sure I need to since I do not have issues producing good edges, I just do not like the waxy no friction feel as compared to other stones.
Like I said, you can do better getting individual stones. This was a great set of stones to get me started especially since it was a gift.
Steel+Fire
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Follow up on my last. I soak my stones for 15-20 minutes and the finer the grit the longer it soaks. The literature that accompanied the set instructed the user to soak for at 10 minutes.
I have knives in Aogami 1, 2 and Super; Shirogami 1 and 2; VG-10; Chromax; and whatever Kono uses for the HD2.
The 3000 and I awanna say 9000 stones came with a silly 1000 grit nagura which makes not much sense. The wooden stands are fine. I dry my rocks on a book shelf standing upright so they get really good airflow. I do not have issues with mold but YMMV. I actually do like the mounted stones as no matter how worn they get I will always be able to use them in my stone holder. At some point my Rika and other stones will need to be glued to a wood block to ensure the backhalf of the stone can be used.
These stones are 3 years old and have held up great. Over priced, so like I said look around at other options.
I have knives in Aogami 1, 2 and Super; Shirogami 1 and 2; VG-10; Chromax; and whatever Kono uses for the HD2.
The 3000 and I awanna say 9000 stones came with a silly 1000 grit nagura which makes not much sense. The wooden stands are fine. I dry my rocks on a book shelf standing upright so they get really good airflow. I do not have issues with mold but YMMV. I actually do like the mounted stones as no matter how worn they get I will always be able to use them in my stone holder. At some point my Rika and other stones will need to be glued to a wood block to ensure the backhalf of the stone can be used.
These stones are 3 years old and have held up great. Over priced, so like I said look around at other options.
coffeelover191919
Senior Member
Why would anyone need a 10k or 13k stone for a kitchen knife? What do u slice with it and what does it feel like?
If you're technique is good, like a scalpel. But disappearing fast against poly and other harder cutting boards.
mpier
Senior Member
It has nothing to do with that, it’s more for project knives, refurbishing, straight razors and just plain fun. No it don’t want or need a high polished edge for cutting food. I will put my yanagiba on it once in awhile to polish it out but not the edge.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
mpier
Senior Member
There are times I put a high polished edge on a knife for friends or customers if I know that they primarily use it as a show piece or sometimes just for practice you know LOOK WHAT I CAN DO!!
I cut anything with it, from obviously cooking ingredients to cloth and other stupid stuff. Knives are tools.
There is a huge misconception about high grit stones.
Jovidah
I'll make you a sponsor offer you can't refuse...
Wasn't the misconception that it's worth bothering going that high? 
That it does nothing or the edge will be lost in seconds or that razor sharp is not needed or that polished equals inability to cut most vegetable skin, meat and so on.
I think this discussion happened already several times. Sides are well consistent. Might just be one of those situations where it is a different perspective for different guys. Fine grits, in my book, aren't related to razor sharp edges to start with. That can be obtained easily enough with very coarse grits (think ~100). What can't be done, that I want, is to obtain a closed edge with the added resilience. Won't do wonders for everything. But that's not the main issue. It's not that easy to do so. I think it's easier, to some extent, to obtain a usable edge, even shaving capable, from a (very) coarse grit, than the refinement to the point where the edge is not ruined by the sharpening process itself and will perform great for longer. So it's more of a principle thing. If it can be done, why not. Give it enough practice and it doesn't need much more extra effort either. Anyway, this made me have the best edge with ZDP, after Sigma 13k. But that's a different problem. Not every or any high grit (or any grit) will behave the same with any alloy. This making testing even more problematic.
I think this discussion happened already several times. Sides are well consistent. Might just be one of those situations where it is a different perspective for different guys. Fine grits, in my book, aren't related to razor sharp edges to start with. That can be obtained easily enough with very coarse grits (think ~100). What can't be done, that I want, is to obtain a closed edge with the added resilience. Won't do wonders for everything. But that's not the main issue. It's not that easy to do so. I think it's easier, to some extent, to obtain a usable edge, even shaving capable, from a (very) coarse grit, than the refinement to the point where the edge is not ruined by the sharpening process itself and will perform great for longer. So it's more of a principle thing. If it can be done, why not. Give it enough practice and it doesn't need much more extra effort either. Anyway, this made me have the best edge with ZDP, after Sigma 13k. But that's a different problem. Not every or any high grit (or any grit) will behave the same with any alloy. This making testing even more problematic.
You hit the nail on the head at the end. I sharpen a lot of cheap knives with horrible steels for people, and if I go above 800 grit with some steels it basically turns into a butter knife. However with my aogami, shirogami, and vg10, I can go up to 8000+ and the edge will slice through anything like a breeze. It really makes a difference with the heat treatment, and if the type of steel is even meant to be used on a knife (in the case of some of the gas station knives people have me sharpen, I doubt it is.)
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
i like the 12k shapton pro. it makes the blades feel truly scary sharp. so sharp that you have to concentrate pretty hard on never ever letting the edge touch your fingers.
it just slides through everything like it wasn't even there basically.
it just slides through everything like it wasn't even there basically.
