140 grit to flatten 1k and 3k - too much?

Discussion in 'Sharpening Station' started by agp, Jan 9, 2019.

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums by donating:

  1. Jan 9, 2019 #1

    agp

    agp

    agp

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Messages:
    242
    Is 140 grit too rough to use to flatten 1k and 3k stones?
     
  2. Jan 9, 2019 #2

    panda

    panda

    panda

    O.G.

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2012
    Messages:
    6,202
    Location:
    south florida
    No
     
    Xenif, Ruso and Nemo like this.
  3. Jan 9, 2019 #3

    Ruso

    Ruso

    Ruso

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,352
    Jon mentioned some time ago that rougher finish (deeper scratches) means faster action but less polish. Hence you decide what you need.
    Otherwise I am with the vulnerable species.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2019 #4

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2017
    Messages:
    2,010
    The Main reason to get a 140 plate is to be "one and done"
    and also able to flatten 300 and 200 stones that need alot of flattening.

    If you go for a 140 plate, there are options to soften the grit/finish,
    like using a small 1200 or 600 diamond or other nagura, etc.

    The Atoma 400 plate should flatten reliably down to about 30 microns range,
    like Shapton 500 or Chosera 400.
     
  5. Jan 9, 2019 #5

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Supporting Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    5,474
    The Atoma 140 comes a bit aggressive OOTB. Use it first for neglected stones of any grit. Very soon it gets smoother. I use it with all stones, up to 8k. With the finest ones it indeed leaves a rough surface. No problem at all. If you don't like the feeling though you may rub the stone with the next coarser one and you will be fine.
     
    Cyrilix and Lars like this.
  6. Jan 9, 2019 #6

    agp

    agp

    agp

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Messages:
    242
    The stones I use the 140 on all have these very visible and distinct scratch marks on them. That's what led me to question if 140 is too rough for 1k and 3k stones. I want the 3k to be flat without being groovy.
     
  7. Jan 9, 2019 #7

    Grunt173

    Grunt173

    Grunt173

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2017
    Messages:
    741
    Location:
    Northeast Ohio
    I use the 140 also on all my stones up to my 8k's. What I do after flattening is take my mini diamond plate of 600 grit and rub the stone in small circles , like building up a slurry, to smooth out the heavier scratches left by the 140.
     
  8. Jan 9, 2019 #8

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Supporting Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    5,474
    Use little pressure and lots of water. The grooves will be only superficial.
     
    Cyrilix and Xenif like this.
  9. Jan 9, 2019 #9

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2017
    Messages:
    2,010
    I feel that with jnats you hear more about
    people getting into performance variations
    with 140 or 400 or 1200 etc stone surfaces (slurry),
    but not sure if it matters as much on syth stones.

    small naguras are modest cost if you go that route.
     
  10. Jan 9, 2019 #10

    Dave Martell

    Dave Martell

    Dave Martell

    Forum Founder Professional Craftsman

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Messages:
    13,694
    Location:
    Airville, PA
    Using a coarse plate to flatten (even fine) stones is no big deal, just helps you get them flat faster is all.


    Tips:

    1. If you want your coarse stones to work fast leave the rough scratch marks in them from your coarse grit plate. The sharp scratch marks (of a coarse grit stone) cut faster than a smooth surface will. Try refreshing the rough surface when the stone slows down.

    2. If you want your fine stones to work fast then remove the rough scratch marks that come from the coarse plate. Smoothing the surface (of fine stones) allows for a greater stone surface area to contact the steel. Some fine stones flat out suck until made to be smooth.
     
  11. Jan 9, 2019 #11

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Supporting Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    5,474
    Thanks, Dave!
     
    Dave Martell likes this.
  12. Jan 10, 2019 #12

    Cmfuen

    Cmfuen

    Cmfuen

    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2016
    Messages:
    9
    In a timely coincidence with Dave’s above, I received my Shapton diamond lapping plate yesterday. Using it on my 4K and 6k made a noticeable difference from my previous lapping with the 140 Atoma.
    Would a smooth surface improve harder stones more than softer ones?
     
  13. Jan 10, 2019 #13

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2017
    Messages:
    2,010
    Shapton plate is approx. Atoma 400 (micron size) equivalent
     
  14. Mar 18, 2019 #14

    Foltest

    Foltest

    Foltest

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2017
    Messages:
    56
    once the 140 breaks in its absolutelly no problem
     
  15. Mar 18, 2019 #15

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Benuser

    Supporting Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    5,474
    Exactly. When brand new, use it first with medium-coarse or strongly neglected stones.
     
  16. Mar 30, 2019 #16

    adam92

    adam92

    adam92

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2016
    Messages:
    71
    i flatten my stone with similar gtir 1000/2000
    or 6000/8000
    1000/4000
    on properly after 3 or 4 time sharpen session , i found out better than using rough stone to flatten the stone & get less scratch , now my stone always stay completely flat by this way...
     
  17. Apr 1, 2019 #17

    catalystman80

    catalystman80

    catalystman80

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2016
    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    NJ
    I used to solely use my Atoma 400 for flattening anything above 600 grit, but now I also use the 140 and 1200. Can't beat 140 in speed of removal, but I do find that I like to finish at least with the 400 to smooth out some deep scratches you can get. Even the 400 can leave some deeper scratches (especially when it's new), so I finish with the 1200 for anything above 1000, and all my naturals (with exception of Arks) get finished with the 1200. Of course it helps not to use unnecessary pressure during the flattening.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2019
  18. Apr 2, 2019 #18

    CutFingers

    CutFingers

    CutFingers

    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2014
    Messages:
    316
    The Atoma 140 is fine...just little pressure...if primarily a flattening stone...

    Little tip for ya...when you wet the stone and load up the atoma with mud...after you are done, take an ordinary brown paper grocery bag...the thicker ones not the beer bags :)

    slop that mud on top of the paper, let it dry and you've got a strop of nice stone dust. Cheap...and great :)
     

Share This Page