Adding a rockstar to my solitary SP1000.... 3000? 4000?

[fourmations]

hi all

J knife relative newbie here......
i have a shibata koutetsu 210 sg2 for six months and probably love it more than my children!!
and i've a shiro kamo ao super petty on the way,
i was advised to add a 4000 SG to my armoury on the forums when i got the shibata

the rockstars were only introduced at the time but they seem like much better value, is that the case? i can get one for 57€ free post on amazon prime
3000? or 4000?, i have no strops to speak of and am happy to use dry newspaper for now

for the record my shibata has never seen a stone, only a few strokes on a 1k ceramic rod every week or two, im afraid to mess it up
but its time to get brave, ive sharpened all my other non j knives on the SP1000 to reasonable effect, but the shibata is another matter

EDIT....ive since gone to youtube for rockstar videos and there are very few.......is this telling me something? thanks

cheers

 

[azn_knives_4l]

I think either 3k or 4k would work really well but haven't used these higher grit Shapton stones so can't speak to them directly. Grit rating is helpful but fast/slow cutting and the finish are more important. A bunch of my knives never see anything coarser than a JKI Synthetic Natural except for thinning and you can switch to this stone instead of the rod if you're into that and your space/use allow it.

 

[M1k3]

I like my Glass 4k. That said, you won't be disappointed with either the 3k or 4k.

FYI the 4k can load up with swarf some, but is pretty easy to wipe off the majority of it, instead of resorting to lapping it. Which if left on the stone, can make it act like a higher grit. If that's of any interest in the grand scheme.

Anyway, both are good.

 

[1315]

If it were me, I'd get the 4k. Though the Pro and glass will give you different feel, the 1k>3k jump is not very significant, where 1k>4k will give you a bit more of a difference. Also, the SG2 and Super coming off 4k will make you a.... rock star. (Sorry)

 

[fourmations]

sorry, i meant ive sharpened all my other knives on the sp1000 not the rod, oops

 

[Kawa]

Don't be afraid to start sharpening the J-knife on the stones. I know the feeling: 'I have to practise more crappy knives before its time to start with the real stuff'
Only to find out later that the good knives sharpen easier then crappy knives and are more fun too.

There is nothing to fail about. At worst you sharpen them twice in a row

If anything can ruin your knives in the long run, ita a ceramic rod. Unless you are a rod star (sorry)

 

[aporigine]

Don't be afraid to start sharpening the J-knife on the stones. I know the feeling: 'I have to practise more crappy knives before its time to start with the real stuff'
Only to find out later that the good knives sharpen easier then crappy knives and are more fun too.

There is nothing to fail about. At worst you sharpen them twice in a row

If anything can ruin your knives in the long run, ita a ceramic rod. Unless you are a rod star (sorry)

I’m curious about your comment regarding the ceramic rod. Details please.

 

[Kawa]

I’m curious about your comment regarding the ceramic rod. Details please.

If you look at knives that have seen a lot of rod use, you see a recurved spot around the heel. That is where the metal gets removed the quickest, since you start hitting the knife there. That makes it hard (near impossible) to sharpen on stones later on.
Ceramic really intensifies this, since it actually abrades metal quite fast.

Next to that, using a rod freehand is very hard to control (keep a steady angle). Most of the times the knife gets sharp because the angle is way too high, ruining the original 2nd bevel by creating an unintended microbevel.

I'd say, leave a rod for crappy, soft knives which need straitening a lot due to wobbly metal. On better knives, only use it once when you find out that the knive doesn't perform anymore, but you need to make a diner right now and you dont have time to touch up the knife.
The next day, sharpen it on stones.

 

[aporigine]

If you look at knives that have seen a lot of rod use, you see a recurved spot around the heel. That is where the metal gets removed the quickest, since you start hitting the knife there. That makes it hard (near impossible) to sharpen on stones later on.
Ceramic really intensifies this, since it actually abrades metal quite fast.

Next to that, using a rod freehand is very hard to control (keep a steady angle). Most of the times the knife gets sharp because the angle is way too high, ruining the original 2nd bevel by creating an unintended microbevel.

I'd say, leave a rod for crappy, soft knives which need straitening a lot due to wobbly metal. On better knives, only use it once when you find out that the knive doesn't perform anymore, but you need to make a diner right now and you dont have time to touch up the knife.
The next day, sharpen it on stones.

New info — thanks!

 

[Vertigo]

New info — thanks!

I agree with @Kawa for the most part, in a catch-all "general good advice" sense, but with judicious use you can safely milk 3-4 mock edges off a ceramic before you should consider hitting the stones. You won't really need to worry about a recurve or long lasting damage if you aren't going Ramsey on it. The caveat being, of course, judicious use.

 

[aporigine]

I agree with @Kawa for the most part, in a catch-all "general good advice" sense, but with judicious use you can safely milk 3-4 mock edges off a ceramic before you should consider hitting the stones. You won't really need to worry about a recurve or long lasting damage if you aren't going Ramsey on it. The caveat being, of course, judicious use.

Yeah, I have one — and I use lightest pressure and like two passes/side max.

If that doesn’t do the trick, it’s time for the stones.