https://www.kyotonaturalstones.com/collections/sharpening-accessories
These were fast and a reasonable price, msg him
These were fast and a reasonable price, msg him
Any recommendations for a REALLY coarse diamond stone?
- Thread starter Jaeger
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I'm no stone expert but I can only speak highly of the 400
I havent tried the non home made ones he has, but just basing it off of what he has told me it might be a little on the hard side for what i specifically want in this case.
Though i am planning to buy a 1000 grit vitrified from him at some point soon for sharpening edges.
Best fastest coarse diamond stone I’ve handled to date is a Practical Sharpening vitrified 400. It is in a league of its own imo. Unfortunately haven’t seen anything new from them in a while.
Have or have had also Venev f100-f240 Naniwa 400 Sankyo 500 Jki 300a.
Ah ok. So the practical sharpening one is currently unavailable?
I might just look for one of those rotary lapping machines that use the round diamond plates if nothing else.
I would looking a rotary whetstone, but it seems it might not be helpful since it might just glaze with the steels im using.
I would looking a rotary whetstone, but it seems it might not be helpful since it might just glaze with the steels im using.
Yeah, power tools might be the answer. In coarse diamonds, I have the Nanohone 200 micron, Naniwa 400, Venev 80/150 and 100/240, and a few different diamond plates. Of these, I use the Venev 100 for very coarse flattening work. I do not think that it is faster than the DMT xtra-coarse, but I haven't used that plate in a very long time (cuz it quit cutting relatively quickly). I found that the Venev 80 has diamonds which pull loose from the resin occasionally and leave very deep scratches in the blade, as well as scratches on the stone itself. Milan also said he found it to sometimes leave very deep scratches. This is the main reason that i use the Venev 100 instead. The Naniwa 400 is not very fast; the Venev 240 is faster even. But I've found the Naniwas to have a harder bond than the Venevs (so they don't need flattening as often as the Venev), and an even more consistent scratch pattern.
The Nanohone 200 micron is very slow for the nominal grit rating. I do not think you will find it useful for your purpose.
None of the resin bonded diamonds that I have tried work as fast (on low/med alloy steels) as the Shapton glass 120.
I've heard good things about the NSK 200, and I'd love to try it for myself. And it's damn shame that the BBB 400 is no longer available; I'd love to try that one out, too
The Nanohone 200 micron is very slow for the nominal grit rating. I do not think you will find it useful for your purpose.
None of the resin bonded diamonds that I have tried work as fast (on low/med alloy steels) as the Shapton glass 120.
I've heard good things about the NSK 200, and I'd love to try it for myself. And it's damn shame that the BBB 400 is no longer available; I'd love to try that one out, too
I havent noticed that issue with my venev 80. Maybe its because these are only hard steel. Cladding or softer steels might be more likely to pull abrasive.
A conventional stone like a shapton definitelty wont work for my purpose. Ive tried most, and so far the venev low grit are the best ive found. I think the only improvement i will get is probably going to be something with a softer bond like the nsk type stuff.
I wont rule out vitrified stuff if people point out one that is currently available, that for sure keeps cutting well.
Maybe try the NSK 200 then?
Yeah. Im probably going that route. I wanted to see if there were any currently available stones that anyone has tried that will compare in speed to it before i do. Since those are pretty expensive.
The vitrified options compared to the nsk are the ones I'm specifically wondering about how they compare to it.
I’m curious, if you use the NSK 200 leveling plate on the 200 stone and leave the slurry will that cause it to cut faster?
Idk.
I'll be honest though. No way im gonna get the leveling plate. But, i currently use stones with the venev, to refresh the surface, and i leave the slurry. That seems to help it cut.
Welp.
I already started to wear through my venev 150. Even though i haven't had it that long. The ammount of work it has had to do is pretty drastic. And i still think for a normal user, or someone just sharpening it could last years, if not decades. But it at the beginning stages of the end. I can see the baseplate on one little part of the 150 side.
Soon enough it will start looking like my f400
That finalizes it. Im definitely going to get something else probably the nsk. But ill see if anything appealing sticks out when the time comes.
I already started to wear through my venev 150. Even though i haven't had it that long. The ammount of work it has had to do is pretty drastic. And i still think for a normal user, or someone just sharpening it could last years, if not decades. But it at the beginning stages of the end. I can see the baseplate on one little part of the 150 side.
Soon enough it will start looking like my f400
That finalizes it. Im definitely going to get something else probably the nsk. But ill see if anything appealing sticks out when the time comes.
How thick was it to start? You're the first person I've heard to go through their Venev, well done.
Modestly, but not dramatically
Idk i havent kept track exactly.
But i've done a lot of work on it since ive gotten it.
I think the range is 1-2mm
Is this the Phoenix or Dragon line?
Pheonix.
But ive been using this after 60 grit. And sometimes 120 grit (just depends) off the belt grinder for my knives. Since after that point the belts are too dull to keep cutting after a pass or two on 10v, and similar stuff.
Coarse stones will never last. For people who use those stones for thinning/shaping bevels they are the stones you use the most for the longuest time so that's totally normal to wear a 150 grit Venev before a 1k by far
Infidelity
Active Member
Have you considered Kasfly sandpaper holder? I think that would be more ideal in your use case. Less time worrying about flattening, just throw the paper away when it stops cutting.
Could use diamond sheets (if they come coarse enough) also, since there's no worries about heat.
I havent found any sheets that are super coarse.
Really at that point i should just get aliexpress diamond plates and throw them out when they stop cutting. Which is an option.
Normal sandpaper. After about 80 grit. Ime doesnt really cut much at all. Specifically on the steels i use. To the kasfly option. If i was doing stuff like san mai, or normal monosteels it would probably be a good option.
60 grit low enough? Not sure about them, just what I found using Google-fu.
https://diamondabrasivebelts.com/products/280mmx230mm-sheet
Probably. Looks pricey though.
They have smaller sheets also. Might be able to find some from another company also.
Jaeger
Knifemaker from Germany
I also thought about the kasfly as an option for that. But as @Blank Blades. Said, normal sandpaper don't really work on this type of steel. But with those diamond sheets 
I think at this point. Like i mentioned about the aliexpress diamond plates it might be more affordable to go that route. I actually bought some of those foam hand sanding diamond bad things. Thats just a thin diamond plate, with a foam backer.
And used those for some of the coarse work on these blades. The ones i got dont give a very consistent polish, but they did do the work i needed them to do. So i think looking further into those in the future is a good option also.
But i still do think getting a coarse bonded diamond stone, that is soft enough to cut very quickly might not be a bad idea.
Idk if i mentioned it here. But i also think getting a lapidary setup that uses those round diamond plates seems like a good idea. And basically use it like a rotary whetstone, but with diamond.
