Higher than 1095, lower than AS.Interesting, but I didn't find any b2 in there?
Enough to tell a difference. A few extra days/a week worth of knife work..How much differs percentage wise between them? Estimate ofcourse
What knife characteristic are you looking for exactly? Best edge retention?How much differs percentage wise between them? Estimate ofcourse
How much differs percentage wise between them? Estimate ofcourse
I think Larrin has some difficulty sourcing Japanese steels. Minimum orders and some memory that says it can be challenging to buy at all if you haven't worked in Japan. Not sure how true that is anymore.Interesting, but I didn't find any b2 in there?
I think Larrin has some difficulty sourcing Japanese steels. Minimum orders and some memory that says it can be challenging to buy at all if you haven't worked in Japan. Not sure how true that is anymore.
One big factor is cutting acidic stuff. Even though some think it's a controversial topic, but IMO it has a major effect.
We used to go thru about 15-20 kg of tomatoes and maybe 5 kg of lemons plus everything else on top of that every day in a super busy kitchen.
White2 lasts me about a day
With B2 I get by about 2-3 work days
with SKD I get by 5 days
Itinomonn is thought to be A2 or SKD or similar and gets me by about 4-5 days
With R2 about 5 days too
And VG10 and Ginsan also about 5 days.
At that point all of them still cut OK. My coworkers still think they cut great, but for me that's when it's time to put them on some stones. I'm aware my results don't reflect the popular views, but what can I do? That's what I got with my knives when I was at the prep station. Like I just don't get any major benefit from R2 compared to SKD. And I can't get passed 5 days with any steel. Not even Hap40.
Biggest difference for me is that White2 gets wrecked with tomatoes etc. B2 can handle them a bit better. Semi Stainless will be affected only a little and SS not at all. If I drop the acidic stuff out of the equation the White2 lasts 2-3 days and B2 3-4 days. Other steels mentioned won't be affected.
But in a home kitchen we're probably talking about weeks or months of use to get to the same volume.
It’s interesting to me that you found r2 retention to be about the same as skd. I found r2 to last a bit longer than skd and ginsan. Generally speaking.
I realize that, I know it should do better, but what can I say?It’s interesting to me that you found r2 retention to be about the same as skd. I found r2 to last a bit longer than skd and ginsan. Generally speaking.
Proving that the exact same piece of steel holds its edge differently when the geometry is changed. And proving that it's possible for people to think they're judging a type of steel when actually they're judging a knife, or a knife maker, or even judging how well the knife was just sharpened.The next time, instead of maintaining the OOTB edge, I thinned the hell out of the knife and rebuilt the edge from scratch. It took forever on a 1K stone. But damnit if I didn't get it stupid sharp, and, lots of prep sessions later, it's STILL the sharpest knife on my board and the edge is basically flawless.
This is exactly the issue in all these comparisons and opinions.Proving that the exact same piece of steel holds its edge differently when the geometry is changed. And proving that it's possible for people to think they're judging a type of steel when actually they're judging a knife, or a knife maker, or even judging how well the knife was just sharpened.
I can't claim (and don't want to claim) that you get it wrong or that any individual gets it wrong, but it's obvious that there's a lot of room for error in comparing types of steel - unless all the knives have perfectly equal profiles and grinds, and start out perfectly equally sharpened. (Not perfectly sharp, just perfectly equal)
Put a microbevel on it. Or just sharpen it normally.Takamura HSPS line comes ootb with a very low bevel...just crazy sharp...only other knife where I’ve seen anything remotely close to it is watanabe. Both are quite brittle.
Proving that the exact same piece of steel holds its edge differently when the geometry is changed. And proving that it's possible for people to think they're judging a type of steel when actually they're judging a knife, or a knife maker, or even judging how well the knife was just sharpened.
I can't claim (and don't want to claim) that you get it wrong or that any individual gets it wrong, but it's obvious that there's a lot of room for error in comparing types of steel - unless all the knives have perfectly equal profiles and grinds, and start out perfectly equally sharpened. (Not perfectly sharp, just perfectly equal)
This is exactly the issue in all these comparisons and opinions.
In addition you also need to identify what is making your edge dull, is it chipping, is it deforming, corrosion, wear? Depending on the mechanism different steels would show relatively different edge longevity even with exactly the same geometry.
The article by Larrin linked above is the best we have for wear. If wear is not your concern then you need to look at other attributes.
As a side note can we please stop calling aogami 2 a2, a2 is a different steel also used for kitchen knives and it is confusing.
Takamura HSPS line comes ootb with a very low bevel...just crazy sharp...only other knife where I’ve seen anything remotely close to it is watanabe. Both are quite brittle.
Good tip.Oh perhaps my fave favorite thing about blazen and takamura r2 knives are their ability to hold on to a 6k edge for an impressive amount of time. If you don’t have a preference for 6k edges then I could see how you feel meh about r2
@ Barmoley I was talking about the A2 tool steel, not Aogami2.
Sorry - I was just abbreviating to not have to keep typing aogami. Given the context of the thread, asking specifically about those three steels, I didn't fighre there would be any confusion.
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