Best TIP Kiritsuke/Bunka or ?

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Tall and Lasery. Feels smaller and lighter than it looks.
I have the Hitohira Togashi 210 K-tip gyuto in white 1 ss clad. I don't feel that way at all. It is a pretty robust knife, very forward heavy, and stiffer than a horny teenager. I wouldn't use the word laser to describe it, though it's a wonderful knife. Maybe you mean the full convex one? Mine is wide bevel.
 
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I have the Hitohira Togashi 210 K-tip gyuto in white 1 ss clad. I don't feel that way at all. It is a pretty robust knife, very forward heavy, and stiffer than a horny teenager. I wouldn't use the word laser to describe it, though it's a wonderful knife. Maybe you mean the full convex one? Mine is wide bevel.
How thick is your spine? Mines at 2.1mm. And just remembered, the newer Kasumi finished are thinner, especially Protooling's. My Blue Gyutos from Protooling from my White Kiritsuke says it from Bernal so for a bit, I thought I did get standard.
 
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How thick is your spine? Mines at 2.1mm. And just remembered, the newer Kasumi finished are thinner, especially Protooling's. My Blue Gyutos from Protooling from my White Kiritsuke says it from Bernal so for a bit, I thought I did get standard.
Just measured. Spine is 2.2 out of the handle, down to about 1.9. What’s interesting is that I measured the shinogi and it’s thicker than the spine, 2.5 at the heel down to 2.2.

Weight is 160, 199 edge, 50 height.
 
Just measured. Spine is 2.2 out of the handle, down to about 1.9. What’s interesting is that I measured the shinogi and it’s thicker than the spine, 2.5 at the heel down to 2.2.

Weight is 160, 199 edge, 50 height.
Oh, mines 240mm, forgot that.
 
A 4000 stone will maintain sharpness for a while, especially if you use it at a slightly higher angle than the original bevel. You’ll essentially be creating and maintaining a microbevel. This is how I maintain my knives (I actually use a strop until that becomes ineffective, then go to the 4k stone). But eventually you’ll need a lower grit stone to recut the primary bevel once you’ve worked through it, and then later down the road you’ll need something coarse for thinning.

If you’re not familiar with sharpening then starting off with a single stone is a good idea as lack of angle consistency negates the benefit of stone progression anyway. If this is the case then a 4k might turn out to be too fine of a starter stone and a 1k might be better as you won’t be able to maintain the consistency for a reliable microbevel and might find the 4k to be too slow and ineffective until you get more consistent.
 
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