Agree. Just use them individually.
Coarse stones are getting smoother
- Thread starter Kawa
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Kawa
Senior Member
Im not sure what grit it is. it's Shapton lapping powder, SiC coarse
https://www.knivesandtools.com/en/p...wder-silicon-carbide-granules-coarse-0502.htm
The link gets you to the product I bought.
The label doesn't state a grit size on it, not even in Japanese.
https://www.knivesandtools.com/en/p...wder-silicon-carbide-granules-coarse-0502.htm
The link gets you to the product I bought.
The label doesn't state a grit size on it, not even in Japanese.
Kawa
Senior Member
Ok, no mixing then 
These were considered a bit different. Somewhat confusing.
There are some grit ranges for every single one and for example, above 12k they recommend just the fine one alone and nothing else. Below 12k up to 5k, you can use medium and fine (coarse not recommended). And so on.
Kawa
Senior Member
Yeah, I even notice some differences among sites. Some say coarse is for 120-1000, some mention 320-500. So I take that with a grain of salt 
I guess i order the medium gritt aswell, and experiment with what works best on each stone.
I guess i order the medium gritt aswell, and experiment with what works best on each stone.
Bobby2shots
Senior Member
One more thought Kawa,,,, when you're sharpening badly damaged edges, don't be afraid to use an axe file instead of your coarse stone,,,, or, before using your coarse stone,,, especially if your coarse stone is easily scratched or damaged. Just clamp the knife in a woodworking vise (if you have one),,, and run the file perpendicular to the blade-edge,,,, heel-to-tip,,,, one continuous stroke after another,,at even pressure. That'll remove metal the full length of the blade until any nicks disappear.
Don't worry about mushrooming (burrs on both sides of the edge) at that point of the process,,,, you're just leveling the edge at that stage. This will work on "some" knives,,, but don't forget about finger-clearance. (knuckle clearance when using the knife) Shorter-height blades such as slicers, boning knives, etc) already have very little finger-clearance because it's not required in use. On a tall chef's knife, or especially cleavers,,, you have lots of room to work with. You can easily remove 1/4" of steel along the entire edge if need be. That said, you may have to thin that blade afterwards.
Once you've leveled the blade, use that axe file to roughly re-set the bevel evenly on both sides. Now you can go to your coarse stone without fear of gouging the stone with jagged edges on the damaged knife/cleaver. This is something that can happen frequently with cleavers, especially if someone uses a thin vegetable cleaver incorrectly, and tries to cut through bone, etc.(blade splits)
Don't worry about mushrooming (burrs on both sides of the edge) at that point of the process,,,, you're just leveling the edge at that stage. This will work on "some" knives,,, but don't forget about finger-clearance. (knuckle clearance when using the knife) Shorter-height blades such as slicers, boning knives, etc) already have very little finger-clearance because it's not required in use. On a tall chef's knife, or especially cleavers,,, you have lots of room to work with. You can easily remove 1/4" of steel along the entire edge if need be. That said, you may have to thin that blade afterwards.
Once you've leveled the blade, use that axe file to roughly re-set the bevel evenly on both sides. Now you can go to your coarse stone without fear of gouging the stone with jagged edges on the damaged knife/cleaver. This is something that can happen frequently with cleavers, especially if someone uses a thin vegetable cleaver incorrectly, and tries to cut through bone, etc.(blade splits)
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Some might put the last possible grit included, some not.
But coarse it's definitely from 120.
But coarse it's definitely from 120.
