Cpm 10v honesukis

[Blank Blades.]

So I've finally gotten around to making something I've been thinking about for a while. High edge retention boning knives. I originally was going to make them western style boning knives, but ended up going with the honesuki profile instead.

So far I've profiled and heat treated them. Well, I'm tempering them as I type this. I did them one at a time, so I let one soak, plate quenched, then got it into the cryo as soon as it was cooled. Then got the second one in the oven, cooled the aluminum plates, and repeated.

Running a temper at 400 right now. Then I'll go from there. I'm likely going to do 3 2 hour cycles. So it's going to be a little while. Just starting the 2nd now.

oh to the right you can see one of the blades covered in frost, warming up from the cryo.

Man, I really love the colors you get doing a heat treat in stainless foil. I feel like it would be interesting if someone controlled it, and left those on the blade somehow.

 

[Troopah_Knives]

Great work man! I suspect CPM-10V is an excellent steel for this sort of thing.

 

[Blank Blades.]

I usually will only profile before heat treating. The only other grinding I'll do, is it I need to change the thickness of the blade. I generally won't do any tapering of the blade, or bevels. I want the whole thing to be in contact with the plates. It minimizes any warping issues, along with making sure it's letting the aluminum act as a heat sink everywhere I want it too.

The tang on one was sticking out of the plates during the quench, well it was on both. But one warped. So I'll need to straighten that after tempering, but that shouldn't be too hard.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Great work man! I suspect CPM-10V is an excellent steel for this sort of thing.

Thanks! Yeah I think it's going to do well. I'm keeping one for myself, to test. Also because I want one lol.

 

[jedy617]

Sweet. Been using 10V a lot, really like it. Super aggressive bitey edge on it

 

[EnderzShadow]

So I've finally gotten around to making something I've been thinking about for a while. High edge retention boning knives. I originally was going to make them western style boning knives, but ended up going with the honesuki profile instead.

So far I've profiled and heat treated them. Well, I'm tempering them as I type this. I did them one at a time, so I let one soak, plate quenched, then got it into the cryo as soon as it was cooled. Then got the second one in the oven, cooled the aluminum plates, and repeated.

Running a temper at 400 right now. Then I'll go from there. I'm likely going to do 3 2 hour cycles. So it's going to be a little while. Just starting the 2nd now. View attachment 202540View attachment 202541View attachment 202542

View attachment 202543oh to the right you can see one of the blades covered in frost, warming up from the cryo.

Man, I really love the colors you get doing a heat treat in stainless foil. I feel like it would be interesting if someone controlled it, and left those on the blade somehow.

Are you going to use a WA or Western handle?

 

[Blank Blades.]

Are you going to use a WA or Western handle?

Wa handle.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Here's the real question. Should I do an assymettical grind? Is there a good reason so many honesukis are 70/30?

 

[Jovidah]

Personally I would cut down on the blade height near the tip. Makes it more nimble and easier to get into small spaces. There's some Japanese honesukis that also retain quite a bit of height up front and they always seemed awkward to me - although admittedly I never used one of those taller ones.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Personally I would cut down on the blade height near the tip. Makes it more nimble and easier to get into small spaces. There's some Japanese honesukis that also retain quite a bit of height up front and they always seemed awkward to me - although admittedly I never used one of those taller ones.

I actually just did that. I removed a few mms from both.

I cut them out with more metal than I needed to have room to make changes as I go.

 

[Blank Blades.]

I've got one ground up to 120 grit. The other I haven't started grinding yet.

Still not sure how I'm going to finish these. I'll see what happens as I go.

 

[mengwong]

it would be interesting if someone controlled it, and left those on the blade somehow

I was just watching this video about fiber lasers doing color marking, about 4:30 onwards

 

[Blank Blades.]

Ok. The first one is finished. The epoxy is currently curing on the second one.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Ive got to say. I always love the edge that 10v takes.

The second one is the on I'm keeping. So once. That one is done, I'll sharpen it up and start using it. I can't wait to see how it does.

 

[Bico Doce]

Super impressive work. Thanks for sharing

 

[Blank Blades.]

Ok. Here's the second one.

Because I'm keeping it I didn't put quite as much work into it as the other but I'm still pretty proud of it.

I still need to put some kind of finish on the handle of the bottom one, but I'll decide that later on.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Just separated about 18 or so lbs of chicken leg quarters. Still shaving sharp no edge damage from hitting the bones.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Too soon for me to post a new wip thread. So I'll just update this one with the next knife I'm working on... Well I'm working on multiple kinda always, but the big ones that I care about are usually what I post pictures of, the rest are either experiments, practice, or just something random I'm doing, like making a blade to replace my worn out Spyderco para 3s blade.

Anyway. It's a nakiri in magnacut. It's going to be the first fully stainless knife I've made. I feel like for a nakiri magnacut is a pretty good choice, it should hold up pretty well to any acidic ingredients, and also should be able to handle an extremely thin grind. I'm going to shoot for 64ish HRC not sure exactly yet actually, but at least around there.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Oh and update with the cpm 10v honesuki that I kept for myself. It's doing well so far, I've used it 3 times now, hit bone several times no chipping, or really any edge deformation at all, that I could see.

It's also not showing even a sign of patina yet. Im thinking it's current level of stain resistance is because I tempered it in the lower range. Which is good for a knife thats used for food.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Alright I'm pretty much ready for heat treat, I don't tend to do any grinding before on these steels I plate quench.

 

[Blank Blades.]

This is going to be the hottest I've taken this thing. Hope it does alright. Probably going to take a while.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Well it did take a while. It gets exponentially slower the higher the temp is. It probably takes like 40 minutes to get to 1450, 1650 is maybe an hour. 2 hours for 1950, and this wasn't done heating until around 12:30 or 1am, and I posted that picture at 8pm. So it definitely took a while.

Oh, and man. This thing at 2200 is a completely different experience from opening it up at 1950, it caught me off guard. When using a forge, it's kinda expected. You see the flames shooting out, and the color of the inside, but this was like opening the briefcase in pulp fiction or something lol.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Got the heat treat done. I still need to finish tempering, but I've got the cryo, then first cycle done before I went to sleep.

More pretty colors.

Also a new blade for my para 3 I'm making. It needs one.

 

[Blank Blades.]

An update on the cpm 10v honesuki I've kept for myself.

I've been using it since the day I posted the finished pictures up here.

You literally can't see any sign of patina yet. I'm honestly surprised how stain resistant it's proving to be. I have a feeling me using cryo and tempering in the lower range, rather than up around the precipitation hardening range is playing a bit part.

The edge is doing just as well as you would expect a 10v blade to be. The only damage I've seen it take. was when I was doing something with it in my hand, and I moved it quickly and slammed the edge into the counter on accident pretty hard. Even with that. The damage was minimal, and I haven't sharpened it yet.

 

[Hardentknives]

Nice work! Those honesuki look gorgeous! must be a joy to use i presume!
I've always wondered, is there a reason for doing skinny vs handle wide tangs? just looks?

 

[Blank Blades.]

Nice work! Those honesuki look gorgeous! must be a joy to use i presume!
I've always wondered, is there a reason for doing skinny vs handle wide tangs? just looks?

For these particular knives it was purely because it was the only way i could get 2 of these out of the same billet. And a big part of why i wanted to make these in particular, is i wanted one for myself, because the knife i used for cutting meat was honestly terrible.

Super soft steel, that was only supporting the edge through being super thick, and even with that, the edge would still roll. And of course being thick, it was an unpleasant experience sharpening it even with it being soft. I mean, really i find harder steel easier to sharpen in general though.

 

[Blank Blades.]

Just an update. Been super busy lately, so the magnacut nakiri has been a slow process. Ive got the handle put together and polished up, ive got the blade ground, and geometry done, and 90% of the polishing done. Ive spent probably the last 2 weeks just trying to get the finish to look perfect, and its driving me crazy lol. Also when im making a knife to sell after, instead of a custom knife specifically for someone. I don't have quite as much pushing me to get it done in a certain time frame so i definitely can take a bit more time than id like.

Anyway, so the blade is laser thin, (its a nakiri, so i feel like thats how it should be). The grind has a right hand bias, and is convex ground. My goal was to completely optimize it for use by a right handed person. The handle is texas ebony, with a zebra bone ferrule.

Once ive got everything put together ill obviously get some good pictures of everything, with it all nice and clean.

 

[Blank Blades.]

My solution to a blade that is too tall to fit in my liquid nitrogen dewar.