Finishing Magnolia Handle

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 25, 2023
Messages
24
Reaction score
38
Location
DC
Hi KKF,

I recently purchased a S. Tanaka gyuto from BST that has an unfinished handle. I believe it to be magnolia with buffalo horn based on another offering.

My plan is to torch it, apply some butcher block conditioner I have laying around (John Taylor), and polish it with 0000 Steel Wool. Seems simple enough, but as it is a first for me, any advice or guidance is appreciated.

IMG_5010.jpeg
IMG_5011.jpeg
 
I’ve never torched a handle so can’t give any advice there. But I’ve been playing with different finishes on my handles recently.

0000 steel wool works well, some people here advised using a wire brush or Scotch Britte pads to avoid small bits of metal impregnating the wood.

For finishing, any board conditioner works well. I’ve been using a homemade beeswax + mineral oil paste for my burnt chestnut handles. After drying I apply some carnaúba wax and buff. Carnauba hardens and gives a bit more protection, also it gets shiny if you buff it.

For non-burnt handles I use tung oil diluted with limonene 50/50. Maybe it works well on burnt handles but I haven’t tried yet.
 
Last edited:
Protect the horn before torching.
Go hot and fast.
Brush off the ash with a stiff brush.
Keep in mind that burning removes material, but can also make it swell. So it may result in a step at the transition between materials.

Note that ho wood won't have the same pronounced texture like chestnut or oak when burnt.
 
Doing a shou sugi ban to a Ho handle looks great and is pretty easy to do. Main concerns are getting the scorch even, not too deep, and not burning the horn.

To protect the horn, I wrap it in aluminum foil. Works well. For the scorching, go easy. Keep the torch at a reasonable distance, not too close. Keep it moving or things can get out of hand quickly. Take special care around any corners, they will burn faster. You can always burn a little more, but you cant take the burn away without deeper sanding.

To finish, yes, light sanding with steel wool then oil/wax is all you need.

Here are some pics of one I did.

Pre burn with foil
IMG_2849.jpg
IMG_2850.jpg

Post burn, pre sanding
IMG_2851.jpg

Post sanding
IMG_2853.jpg

Finished with mineral oil and beeswax
IMG_2855.jpg
IMG_2857.jpg
IMG_2854.jpg
 
Last edited:
I haven't done a burn yet, but planning on it.
There is the option of ebonizing too. It depends on the tannins in the wood, but you can also add strong tea. Both the saya and the handle were white woods. Mixed vinegar and steel wool. Let them sit for like a week. Then just sponge brush the tea on if you want it darker. Then the Iron acetate you made with the steel wool and vinegar. You can go darker with more coats. Apparently if you do enough it gets almost black like ebony.
wokshopcleaver ebonize.jpeg
 
Doing a shou sugi ban to a Ho handle looks great and is pretty easy to do. Main concerns are getting the scorch even, not too deep, and not burning the horn.

To protect the horn, I wrap it in aluminum foil. Works well. For the scorching, go easy. Keep the torch at a reasonable distance, not too close. Keep it moving or things can get out of hand quickly. Take special care around any corners, they will burn faster. You can always burn a little more, but you cant take the burn away without deeper sanding.

To finish, yes, light sanding with steel wool then oil/wax is all you need.

Here are some pics of one I did.

Pre burn with foil
View attachment 272816View attachment 272815
Post burn, pre sanding
View attachment 272814
Post sanding
View attachment 272813
Finished with mineral oil and beeswax
View attachment 272812View attachment 272811View attachment 272810
Nice Mazaki...
 
Doing a shou sugi ban to a Ho handle looks great and is pretty easy to do. Main concerns are getting the scorch even, not too deep, and not burning the horn.

To protect the horn, I wrap it in aluminum foil. Works well. For the scorching, go easy. Keep the torch at a reasonable distance, not too close. Keep it moving or things can get out of hand quickly. Take special care around any corners, they will burn faster. You can always burn a little more, but you cant take the burn away without deeper sanding.

To finish, yes, light sanding with steel wool then oil/wax is all you need.

Here are some pics of one I did.

Pre burn with foil
View attachment 272816View attachment 272815
Post burn, pre sanding
View attachment 272814
Post sanding
View attachment 272813
Finished with mineral oil and beeswax
View attachment 272812View attachment 272811View attachment 272810
This is awesome. Is the handle magnolia as well? That is how I am hoping it turns out.
 
I finally got around to this. I torched it, sanded it with 0000 steel wool, and finished with a mineral oil + beeswax mix. Since I am unfamiliar with magnolia, or wood properties in general, the charring went a bit farther than I would have liked because it burned very quickly. Overall, pretty happy with the results and prefer it to the before. Thank you all for the advice.

Before
IMG_5010.jpeg



After (pictures are a bit dark)
IMG_5056.jpeg
IMG_5055.jpeg
IMG_5057.jpeg
IMG_5058.jpeg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top