Going to cut some holes in a knife to improve food release, any suggestions?

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I already cut some large rectangles in a knife. Food release was really good but the knife became flimsy. I decided to try again to see if I could still get excellent food release but improve the stability. I think triangles would work, any suggestions would be appreciated.
I drew a design on a 210mm Ginsan 3 gyuto.
IMG_3688.jpeg
 
Only way I’d take on a project like this is with a cutting laser or a water jet, cnc controlled.

Seems to me there is room for one more Z toward the heel.
 
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I'm waiting until we reinvent the rhinochop knives that were posted in the ugly knife section a few years back.

I'd probably try the experiment on something cheaper like a victorinox or a kiwi and you can afford to keep a larger sections of metal between the triangles.
 
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I'm waiting until we reinvent the rhinochop knives that were posted in the ugly knife section a few years back.

I'd probably try the experiment on something cheaper like a victorinox or a kiwi and you can afford to keep a larger sections of metal between the triangles.
That looks like one of Rutan’s homelier designs.

Trypophobes need not apply.

1723950002384.jpeg
 
a line of circular holes might work better than triangles.
I thought about doing circles but I decided on triangles. I think the triangle shape will help to guide the knife into and out of the cut by always having some contact with the food. If I remember correctly, I think the triangular shape is supposed to improve structural integrity. I don’t know if this applies to a knife but it looks like it will be easier to cut than a circle. I don’t have the knowledge or skill to put convexity on a knife with whetstones which is why I’m cutting holes in it.
 
Fascinating! Do you really need that big of a hole? I also feel like monosteel will be much stronger than sanmai with the holes.
The first knife with the large rectangles was too hard to sharpen on a whetstone because the area by the cutting edge was too narrow. I didn’t like sharpening the knife because my guide finger on the knife would rub against the whetstone. On this knife, I made the width by the cutting edge wider and the area by the spine narrower. I did this to decrease the food contact area. I plan to mainly cut potatoes and onions with this knife if it works.
 
Food release might be improved, to the detriment of most of the other attributes of the knife.
Yes, this knife will be a gimmicky, one trick pony. The first knife has the best food release of any knife I ever tried but I don’t want to use it because it’s flimsy and seems dangerous. I was hoping to make this second knife more stable. There are many downsides to the first knife with the large rectangles.
1. It’s uncomfortable
2. It’s flimsy
3. Seems dangerous because of the lateral play at the cutting edge
4. It’s hard to clean with the holes and ridges (starting to rust)
5. difficult to sharpen
6. If the path of insertion isn’t straight, tall foods will bump against the top of the window
7. Food will sometimes catch in the window if the path of withdrawal isn’t the same as the path of insertion.
8. Can’t use a knuckle guide against the knife
9. Can’t use the knife to transfer food

After writing this, I’m wondering why I’m attempting this again.
 
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Fascinating! Do you really need that big of a hole? I also feel like monosteel will be much stronger than sanmai with the holes.
Good idea, I didn’t consider using a monosteel knife, it probably would be stronger. The only monosteel knives I have are MSicard knives but I don’t want to screw them up.
 
Yes, this knife will be a gimmicky, one trick pony. The first knife has the best food release of any knife I ever tried but I don’t want to use it because it’s flimsy and seems dangerous. I was hoping to make this second knife more stable. There are many downsides to the first knife with the large rectangles.
1. It’s uncomfortable
2. It’s flimsy
3. Seems dangerous because of the lateral play at the cutting edge
4. It’s hard to clean with the holes and ridges (starting to rust)
5. difficult to sharpen
6. If the path of insertion isn’t straight, tall foods will bump against the top of the window
7. Food will sometimes catch in the window if the path of withdrawal isn’t the same as the path of insertion.
8. Can’t use a knuckle guide against the knife
9. Can’t use the knife to transfer food

After writing this, I’m wondering why I’m attempting this again.
Because you have the right tools and attitude for some geek-level ****ery?

One practical suggestion I have is that you chamfer/relieve every surface around the holes with a shallow bevel. Ideally an elliptical cross section on the struts. This will prevent shaving of product by the hole edges, and it will greatly facilitate keeping the unit clean.

It’s a frightful amount of work, but in for a penny …
 
Wild thought.
Instead of cutting through holes, how ‘bout using a spherical bur to dimple the blade face like a golf ball?

1) Blade integrity is not significantly reduced.
2) You can reduce the food-contact area to a few per cent of original, especially if you use a smaller bur to make dimples in the residual blade real estate.
3) It’ll be easier to keep clean.
d) You could usefully restrict the treatment to the active (the right side for dextral folks) side of the blade. You can dimple all the way to tip, heel, spine, an option not available in the through-hole model.
In a san-mai blade, the cladding would provide a convenient depth indicator, assuming it’s visible freshly ground. Reduced ad extremum, perhaps someone should make ball burs from Jnats so the kasumi would reveal the cladding horizon.
Sunday morning woolgathering …
 
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Wild thought.
Instead of cutting through holes, how ‘bout using a spherical bur to dimple the blade face like a golf ball?

1) Blade integrity is not significantly reduced.
2) You can reduce the food-contact area to a few per cent of original, especially if you use a smaller bur to make dimples in the residual blade real estate.
3) It’ll be easier to keep clean.
d) You could usefully restrict the treatment to the active (the right side for dextral folks) side of the blade. You can dimple all the way to tip, heel, spine, an option not available in the through-hole model.
In a san-mai blade, the cladding would provide a convenient depth indicator, assuming it’s visible freshly ground. Reduced ad extremum, perhaps someone should make ball burns from Jnats so the kasumi would reveal the cladding horizon.
Sunday morning woolgathering …
Bonus, can do just half the work. Make the dimples on the dominant hand side.
 
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