Harder to Maintain Angle on Higher Grit Stones

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Its_Raw

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Hello! I have a couple Naniwa Chosera stones and when using the 400-grit stone, I seem to be able to keep a more consistent angle. However, when switching to the 1000-grit stone, I am noticing some faceting on the edge like the angle is frequently shifting. I need practice and experience for sure, but can the slicker feeling, higher grit stones be more difficult to maintain the angle as you move the knife along the surface of the stone?

Thank you!
 
It may be that since the NP400 is a softer, muddier stone, that the swarf is creating scratches above your actual angle. The 1000 being harder is just showing you more precisely what your angle is. Or your angle control isn't as good as it could be. In the end the angle is controlled by your wrist and arm, not the stone.
 
I think its a stone feedback. The “grippier” the feedback the more it seems like the angle is under control. However, it might or might not be the case.
As long as you are getting good/fair results, the refining of technique will come.
 
Hmmm. As to the choseras both are hard stones. I find the 1000 to be much more muddier then the 400.

When I first started, I was using a king 6000. I found that stone, extremely gummy and with my poor technique the edge would catch/dig into the stone. With practice I got better but it was not an enjoyable stone. I have not had similar issues with choseras
 
It may be that since the NP400 is a softer, muddier stone, that the swarf is creating scratches above your actual angle. The 1000 being harder is just showing you more precisely what your angle is. Or your angle control isn't as good as it could be. In the end the angle is controlled by your wrist and arm, not the stone.
Quite likely the 400 is creating a somewhat convexed edge. I don't know the 1k, but it took me some time to let it follow by a harder, more exact stone like a SG4k. A very slightly higher angle makes sure you're hitting the very edge.
 
A package arrived today from sharpeningsupplies.com! Inside of the box was a 3000-grit Naniwa Chosera water stone and a set of those angle guides that sit on top of the stone. Those guides made a lot of difference. I was able to get a burr with less strokes and with the 3000-grit stone, the knife I sharpened was extremely sharp. Still not perfect and I could not be any more slow, but better than it was.
 
A package arrived today from sharpeningsupplies.com! Inside of the box was a 3000-grit Naniwa Chosera water stone and a set of those angle guides that sit on top of the stone. Those guides made a lot of difference. I was able to get a burr with less strokes and with the 3000-grit stone, the knife I sharpened was extremely sharp. Still not perfect and I could not be any more slow, but better than it was.
Good news, but use it to check what you're feeling and hearing. If you pay attention to it, especially with a stone that offers so much feedback, you won't use them any longer much sooner than you'd expect.
You can't rely on guides only, just as with a burr. Checking with a marker and a loupe should confirm that the entire bevel is clean, with no ink or swarf on top. Belly, tip and heel are likely to show that the very edge hasn't yet been reached.
 
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Belly, tip and heel are likely to show that the very edge hasn't yet been reached.
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I will definitely take your advice to pay attention to the stone and learn to sharpen without the guide one day.

I did notice the guide did put some scratches on the side of the knife from the swarf. I was practicing on a cheap knife, so it was not an issue. When I feel like I should move on to a better knife, I will put a strip of tape on the blade to protect it if I still need to use the guide.
 
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