I want to get the most from the stones I have

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Mr.Wizard

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I have only a few bench stones. I want to learn to use them properly before I consider adding another.

Background: most of my sharpening time has accrued on an Edge Pro where I learned pressure control, angles, and deburring, but not methods that I read about here like slurry and slurry mixing, and where stone feedback takes a lower priority after cutting speed and shape holding. I have been moving toward freehand sharpening, starting from the need to thin then coming to sharpen small blades to a working edge by holding a 6" stone in one hand for convenience. I recently did a benchstone-only edge on a good quality knife for the first time in a while and I enjoyed the process and the minimal gear.

Existing bench stones: Zandstra FOSS 7205, Suehiro Cerax 320, King Neo 800 ST-2, King Deluxe 1200, Naniwa Hayabusa 4000.

The FOSS stone is a large coarse dual-grit silicon carbide stone from a speed-skate brand. I don't expect others have it but it seems to me a straightforward stone to use. The coarse side is just as vulgar feeling as other porous coarse stones but strikes a good balance of hardness. The finer side actually feels pretty nice to me; I hope it lasts.

The Cerax 320 I find very slow for the grit and it wears super quickly. I can see it being useful for cosmetic finishing but I haven't gone down that path yet. I really don't know what else to do with it and it sits unused.

I think the King 1200 was my first water stone and I have used it now and again over the years when I needed a bench stone of some sort but I have never come to like it. As with the Cerax 320 I find it very slow, but with tolerable wear. I tried soaking it for several days after reading here that "permasoaking" made it better but I still was not impressed with its speed or the edge I got. I'll grant that it feels nice to use but I still find myself avoiding it. I don't want to perma-soak stones, I don't like how long it takes to dry.

The Hayabusa 4k gives me a high polish and a sharp edge and I really like the fact that it dries quickly. I find its feel strange, kind of sticky, almost like leather-hard clay. The rubbery Naniwa Super Stones make more sense to me in that my senses accept what they are, whereas I keep feeling like there is something off about the Hayabusa even though it seems to work well enough.

The King Neo #800 is my latest purchase and I have only used it once. I was going to wait until the King 1200 was worn out to get another medium but I realized that since I kept avoiding it that would never happen. @Deadboxhero recommended this one for working on a broad range of steel. It feels finer than expected for #800, and seems like a direct replacement that works faster. It needs some soaking but dries a lot faster than the Deluxe 1200. At the moment I don't know why I would ever use the KDS 1200 again.

Where to go from here?

I am open to guidance on using any and all of these stones, though I am particularly interested in maximizing the Hayabusa and Neo #800. I think I am just the wrong person for the Cerax 320.

The King 1200 is interesting in that I struggle to get good edges from it and I suspect this most clearly shows my lack of freehand skill as I've had plenty of opportunity. I haven't gotten the sharp, toothy edge described by @KingShapton and @branwell among others. But even freehand I get better edges from BORIDE stones of similar grit that I use with the Edge Pro. Should I retire the KDS 1200 now that I have the Neo, or is there something special in there I have yet to reveal?

The Hayabusa leaves me feeling like I am doing something wrong even though I cannot complain about the result. This stone does not seem to create any mud by itself; maybe I need to raise one?
 
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I have the Hayabusa and I think it is the bees knees. I agree, it does have an ever so slight creamy-gummy sensation. Would I like a natural stone in this grit range? Sure and maybe my Dan’s hard Ark is sorta similar with the right surface prep. However, the range, consistency, and speed of the hayabusa is just on another level. For straight razors the hayabusa 4K and Fuji 8K combo is superb.

Something cheap and you can use with your current stones is some Smiths Honing Solution (non-petroleum) and a little bit of car wax on a strop. These have been stepping up my edges lately.

 
Eclectic collection. I don't have a Hayabusa, but it sounds a bit like the Naniwa Hibiki, which is one of those stones aimed at woodworkers, super-hard, barely wears at all, mud is unthinkable. These can make very nice edges, but you may need pressure to get tooth.

I cut my teeth on the King 800 and 1200, and I'd probably still be using them if they did not dish so much. Excellent feedback. It seems likely that you should watch some JKI videos and work on fundamentals for a while. Or you could do the KKF thing and buy more stones. It's certainly possible that you might click better with a different sort of stone. When it comes to synthetics for my preferences, Shapton Glass is the main act, and everything else is a sideshow. Your preferences may turn out to be very different, but a toe in the water in the form of picking up an SG500, the one stone in the line that almost everyone seems to love, might be a fun step. Get a great edge on that, and you can go almost anywhere from there, including straight to the kitchen to cut stuff.
 
Eclectic collection. I don't have a Hayabusa, but it sounds a bit like the Naniwa Hibiki, which is one of those stones aimed at woodworkers, super-hard, barely wears at all, mud is unthinkable. These can make very nice edges, but you may need pressure to get tooth.

I cut my teeth on the King 800 and 1200, and I'd probably still be using them if they did not dish so much. Excellent feedback. It seems likely that you should watch some JKI videos and work on fundamentals for a while. Or you could do the KKF thing and buy more stones. It's certainly possible that you might click better with a different sort of stone. When it comes to synthetics for my preferences, Shapton Glass is the main act, and everything else is a sideshow. Your preferences may turn out to be very different, but a toe in the water in the form of picking up an SG500, the one stone in the line that almost everyone seems to love, might be a fun step. Get a great edge on that, and you can go almost anywhere from there, including straight to the kitchen to cut stuff.
I'll echo what you're saying.
I started with the King 1k.
Got usable edges.
Then got a SG500.
The King 1k just kind of sat there.
Got a Shapton Pro 2k.
Then I sold the King 1k. Haven't missed it.
 
I like the shapton rockstar better than my pro 2000, and i liked the pro version a lot. A five minute soak makes it a much different stone than just using it as a splash and go, it turns creamier, but it’s also great as a splash and go. More like a traditional shapton
 
@Mr Kooby Shemayrew How do you use the Hayabusa? What do you usually use before it? How much pressure? Do you finish edge leading or trailing? Do you use a slurry stone/plate? Any other tips?

I am watching one of Jon's videos in pieces today; I hadn't realized he was posting new material in the last year or so.

I see I am not the only one who isn't in love with the King Deluxe 1200, but I am annoyed that I don't get the result from it that others describe and I think if I can get there I will have significantly improved my freehand game. Anyone want to give me detailed instructions for finishing on that stone only?

I'll keep the Shapton Glass 500 (or maybe Rockstar 500) on my list, but I don't want to buy any more stones right now. When I wear out the fine side of the FOSS I know where to go.
 
@Mr Kooby Shemayrew How do you use the Hayabusa? What do you usually use before it? How much pressure? Do you finish edge leading or trailing? Do you use a slurry stone/plate? Any other tips?

I am watching one of Jon's videos in pieces today; I hadn't realized he was posting new material in the last year or so.

I see I am not the only one who isn't in love with the King Deluxe 1200, but I am annoyed that I don't get the result from it that others describe and I think if I can get there I will have significantly improved my freehand game. Anyone want to give me detailed instructions for finishing on that stone only?

I'll keep the Shapton Glass 500 (or maybe Rockstar 500) on my list, but I don't want to buy any more stones right now. When I wear out the fine side of the FOSS I know where to go.


I use the Hayabusa primarily for razor honing. I have A LOT of stones so I have a lot of choices for stone progression. For me, I consider the Hayabusa a 6K stone and I believe the particle size is very uniform so the resultant edges are also more uniform (read: smoother) than many other stones in this range. That makes for great smooth straight razor edges but less aggressive knife edges. Most of my knives do not get a 6K edge as I prefer them toothier. My nakiri or yanagibas can appreciate this stone.

I do use a small diamond plate to generate some slurry. This greatly speeds up the stone. This speed also means that I can jump from a ~400 grit stone which is very convenient (1K would be better / faster though). I will use half strokes (some say scrubbing), 10 per side, work my way down to 2 per side, then do edge-leading-only alternating strokes. From there I will rinse the stone clean and do some edge-leading-only alternating strokes, gradually lightening the pressure, and checking the edge frequently for development.

The stone is just barely hard enough that it won’t generate slurry on its own. This is nice because it is easy to generate slurry when you want the speed, and subsequently easy to clean and flatten. It also will not generate slurry on its own so it can be used that way when you want those attributes. I recommend using it both ways in a progression.

Edit: Btw, if your stone is new, make sure to flatten and chamfer all the edges before every use. It will have some expansions between uses. These seem to go away after a while.
 
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