Is there such a Santoku blade?

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Interesting. In theory probably if the cut item stays touching the blade checks continuously after the cut but normally that is not the case unless it is like a giant potato but even then the hammered side would allow the cut item to peel away. Not sure if this would behave the same as a single bevel blade. One is differential is the differential at the point of cut and the other is after the cut.
 
On some stuff the mirror polish would create a far higher friction due to stiction. On other stuff, the hammer finish would, due to stuff getting jammed in the dimples and/or their rims creating high-pressure spots.

I'd love to try a knife like you suggest - and I would expect to have to use it differently than a plain ryoba.
 
I would love to try it too... but most likely no one will make it for me... :-(
 
Oh, somebody will - but makers that are into traditional designs, into making what they know works and making it well, might not be the best partners for such a project. You want somebody that likes to experiment, that is prepared to listen to you - and whom you are prepared to listen to.
 
You are 100% right. I think it might be difficult in Japan.... most seem to be traditionalists and others are just working with pre-fab blanks.
Maybe my next trip to JP if I have time, I will look for a knife maker, maybe in person can convince them to help....
 
Can i also ask are you're only concerns with this being smooth for your knuckles and food release?

Because tsuchime finishes (hammered) while they help are nothing compared to good convex food release oriented geometry.
 
malexthekid said:
Because tsuchime finishes (hammered) while they help are nothing compared to good convex food release oriented geometry.
Click to expand...

I have thought about this but not so sure about the ability of having a convex grind and a double bevel edge.
 
NMK64 said:
I have thought about this but not so sure about the ability of having a convex grind and a double bevel edge.
Click to expand...

Huh? There are heaps of double bevels which are convexed.

Not my area of expertise but ask and you will get heaps of suggestions.
 
@malexthekid I mean, will a convex grind still be better if it is a very thin slice that will be compliant to the blade face, or if cutting an ingredient like dried fruit that will stick as much as it can find metal surface to stick to?
 
malexthekid said:
Huh? There are heaps of double bevels which are convexed.
Click to expand...

Oh, right, I got it backwards... Yes, true, lots of convex on both sides.
But I was hoping for one side a straight with bevel cutting edge and I guess other side convex?
Per my earlier post, maybe I will try the Shun Sumo and see how that goes.
 
There are some blades like that but they are extremely asymmetric.

Back to my precious question, why does the knuckle side face have to be flat? Is it purely for you knuckles?

I have various knives, from relatively flat to quite aggreesively etched damascus. And none of them are an issue for my knuckles.

Sorry just trying to understand your why so can offer relevant suggestions.
 
Feels like you're over-equating a dimpled finish to food release.
If you want a 'flat' face for your knuckles then get something like a Misono or maybe Masahiro. Flat left face and convexed right for food to part away from it. But they're right biased asymmetric.
A rather lower shinogi line wide bevel knife will also have the tendency to part cut food away, but will also be prone to wedging in more foods (thinking something like a Moritaka)
I suppose you can always take sandpaper to the incoming Koishi and polish to whatever level desired
And what knives do you have right now that you're having such issues with your knuckles?
 
Right now it sounds like you're asking for heat-resistant chocolate just because your chocolate tea pot keeps melting. An overly complicated solution for a problem many of us here never experienced.
Good food release is possible on a polished knife.
 
here is single beveled gyuto with a polished ura. looks more like a santoku to me and I think is about the closest you will ever get.





Problem is I saved this on the fly a few days ago when I thought of your post, closed the mobile browser and cannot find the link for love or money
 
He wanted no kataba :) Otherwise, he'd have a range of funayukis to choose from...

Even a rough or dimpled finish on kataba, as the shun has, seems to be a nontraditional hybridization...
 
Just received my Masakage Koishi AS Santoku 165, pretty nice, decent build and the KU finish is not as rough as I had thought it would be and pretty happy with the discounted price.

As it seems for now this is what I use and maybe my next trip to Japan I'll spend a few days checking out some knife makers...

I definitely appreciate all the help and great advices provided by the people of this forum, definitely a learning experience.

Cheers all.
 
You bought a nice knife give it a workout. At just over two bills I got a Kochi 180 stainless clad kiritsuke santoku. Very tall at the heel 57mm. Versatile compact cutter. It is a great looking knife too.
 
Nice 57mm at the heel, something I would like.
I tried to get the Masakage Kujira Gyuto 180mm because he heel is quite tall but it was sold out, just as well, it was for much more $$...
Thank you.
 
I am sure Jon at JKI will be getting more Kochi blades in most are sold out for good reason.
 
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