Mineral oil and wood glue?

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I'm gluing up some hardwoods for a knife block. I'd like to coat the insides (the slots for the blades) with mineral oil before gluing with Titebond3. Any reason this approach might cause problems? TIA.
 
Titebond is water based. Oil and water won't mix. There might be a product that bonds to oil, but I don't know what it is. Would be interested to find out.
 
I'm gluing up some hardwoods for a knife block. I'd like to coat the insides (the slots for the blades) with mineral oil before gluing with Titebond3. Any reason this approach might cause problems? TIA.
oiling the wood won't help your knives they'll still rust and if you build it right the blades wont touch the wood
 
oiling the wood won't help your knives they'll still rust and if you build it right the blades wont touch the wood
Not concerned about rust, I can handle that. My question was about oil and glue. Don't put the cart ahead of the horse.
You could always glue it up and then soak in oil - similar to what is done with a cutting board.
I think this is the correct answer. I'll pull a oil-soaked cloth through the gaps after gluing and sanding. Thanks for the help!
 
FYI. I just check the manufacturers website and they state:

"Get better results gluing woods that are oily or high in tannic acid.

When working with woods that are high in tannic acid or are considered oily, wiping the joints with acetone before gluing them up ensures a good bond. Acetone clears the contaminants from the wood's pores on the bonding surface and dries quickly without leaving any residue. A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints.
 
FYI. I just check the manufacturers website and they state:

"Get better results gluing woods that are oily or high in tannic acid.

When working with woods that are high in tannic acid or are considered oily, wiping the joints with acetone before gluing them up ensures a good bond. Acetone clears the contaminants from the wood's pores on the bonding surface and dries quickly without leaving any residue. A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints.
This just means naturally oily woods, like amboyna. This is a far cry from wood that's oiled with mineral oil, which will have a much, much higher oil content.
 
I wouldn't touch them with oil until after gluing. I'd agree with oiling after which seems what you're going with. I made a knife block to mount next to my island less than a week ago. Rushed the the project as usual, ended up being to close to countertop for some handles. Already oiled it with several coats and wax.

Long story short I cleaned it with acetone and was able to glue a spacer board on the back with no issues. Granted, I use CA glue.
 
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