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steeley

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[video]http://youtu.be/5F8PedsUmB0[/video]


fun little video
 

Marko Tsourkan

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[video]http://youtu.be/5F8PedsUmB0[/video]


fun little video
Cool video, though I would not run and buy his DVD if you think about making sayas. I would buy one or two saya chisels, a small bandsaw and 6x48 belt sander (if possible). These tools along with rasps, clamps, granite plate (flattening) will be all you need to make a saya. Don't bother about Dremmel, router, etc. You will get better results (and work faster) with hand tools.

M
 

Eamon Burke

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I don't understand, Marko, aside from his saw not being small, and using a different kind of sander, he uses almost exactly those tools. He doesn't use a dremel or router to shape the saya...
 

Pensacola Tiger

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Cool video, though I would not run and buy his DVD if you think about making sayas. I would buy one or two saya chisels, a small bandsaw and 6x48 belt sander (if possible). These tools along with rasps, clamps, granite plate (flattening) will be all you need to make a saya. Don't bother about Dremmel, router, etc. You will get better results (and work faster) with hand tools.

M
Marko,

Would you provide links to saya chisels you recommend for us?

Rick
 

SpikeC

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A paring chisel could be modified to do this without too much effort, for a lot less money!
 

steeley

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bent shank paring chisel .
there is a lot of info out there mostly in sword sites.
[/IMG]
 

Marko Tsourkan

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Are all three sizes necessary, or will one do for a beginner?
Yes, JWW chisels are same chisels I use. Unlike other chisels, they are quite long and flex, which allows you to apply pressure while carving. Sharpening them can be a little challenging, due to the bull nose tips.

I have two smaller sizes - I think it's 12mm and 16mm chisels and find them fully adequate. I use a small size to do an outline and to shape the edges and the larger to do most stock removal. The largest (25mm) size would be useful for tall knives' sayas, like cleaver, but even those I carve with smaller chisels.

My comment about using Dremel tool or routers in carving a saya cavity was not in the connection with the video. That was just an OT comment based on personal experience.

Also, unlike on swords sayas, on knife sayas you only carve a cavity on one side.

M
 

Marko Tsourkan

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A paring chisel could be modified to do this without too much effort, for a lot less money!
Paring chisel won't give you much flex. It might work adequately for small knives' sayas, but once you start carving sayas for 240-300mm, you will see the deficiency. Same can be said about all other chisels out there, even the offset ones.

If you plan on making a few sayas for your knives, buy right tools. It will make your work easier and quality of your work better.

M
 

steeley

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Thank you for your answer Marko Saya-Nomi seems like the way to go.
also Marko has post on KF about the saya making. if you search for it .
The Saya-shi is the scabbard maker who construct the Saya and Tsuka with the material, Ho-no-ki ( Japanese magnolia wood ), which are the products of Japan.
 

Pensacola Tiger

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Paring chisel won't give you much flex. It might work adequately for small knives' sayas, but once you start carving sayas for 240-300mm, you will see the deficiency. Same can be said about all other chisels out there, even the offset ones.

If you plan on making a few sayas for your knives, buy right tools. It will make your work easier and quality of your work better.

M
Thanks for your reply, Marko. I appreciate it.

Rick
 

Eamon Burke

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My comment about using Dremel tool or routers in carving a saya cavity was not in the connection with the video. That was just an OT comment based on personal experience.
Ah that makes sense. Yeah, I bet it's rare to see a chisel burn the wood from a 1/2 second pause.
 

Marko Tsourkan

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It's not that much about burning wood, as for being in control how much wood you remove, at which angle etc. I carve sayas with same geometry in the cavity as on the knife, so there is little to no movement inside the saya once a knife is in. I include apin as a extra protection, but often it is not needed.

M
 
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