Shaving with straight razor?? Newbie Help

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In my experience sharpness is the deal.
 
Ya most I ever do is a wet face than lather. When starting out and getting used to it all, I suggest getting the prep done. Only because it does have a slightly easier cut facter than a dry beard. And most people do notice more irritation durring the learning curve due to the above reasons... Sharpness or lack there of, and angle. Once you get the mechanics down and the wicked crazy edge figured out (or a pro hone job) than the shaves get easy and faster.

Anyone starting out in straights should really have at least 2 razors. One done by a pro honemeister and one for you to practice honing with... or both by a honemeister. This gives you a known level of sharpness to test your own edges with, something most cannot get to without knowing what they are looking for. Once you can reproduce an edge equil to a honemiester on your own blades you will have reached self contained system that you will really enjoy :)
 
I've been lucky, so far. I've only had small nicks here and there since switching to my DE and straight (knock on wood).
Pesky, from one new guy to another, my advice is this: If you feel any sort of pulling, stop! Try a different angle (face to spine of) blade. If it pulls on your next, less aggressive angle of attack, try going across the grain. If this doesn't work, I imagine it's your razor's sharpness. See if you can strop it back to where it should be. A properly honed straight should be easy to bring back, from what I've experienced. Rick honed mine for me, and I've been maintaining it on an old natural leather belt, not even a strop, and it's buttery smooth on most of my face. I go AT LEAST 50 swipes per side, and often up to 75+. It IS worth the extra 20 seconds of effort.
A pretty smart dude just told me, "60 laps on a strop is much better than 20, and 100 is better than 60".
Anyways, keep at it Pesky! Out of curiosity, what shave cream/soap are you using, and what is your post shave routine?
 
Lefty said:
A pretty smart dude just told me, "60 laps on a strop is much better than 20, and 100 is better than 60".
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There I have to disagree. I did various testing, lap-counts from 5 to 50 and in my experience, there is nothing 50 laps can do better thand 15 if the edge is in general good shape. The only thing a high lap count does in my opinion is round the edge faster and therefore needs a stone sooner.
 
Intersting thought, Sean. Thanks for the input. I guess you could be right...I'd be interested to see what the general consensus is on this one. I've been wrong before, so you could very well be right. And this is why forums are a great place to learn!
So...anyone?
 
Lefty said:
Intersting thought, Sean. Thanks for the input. I guess you could be right...I'd be interested to see what the general consensus is on this one. I've been wrong before, so you could very well be right. And this is why forums are a great place to learn!
So...anyone?
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He is right, but you have to have a very good stone to get an edge that does not need more than 20 laps on the strop. Subpar edges only benefit from more stropping.
 
Once in a while 50 to 100 laps on leather can be a nice, gentle touch up. If that doesn't do the job, then a few laps on chromium oxide + leather and you should once again be ready for quite some time.
 
Are hanging strops "better" for razors then mounted ones, or is it just a preference? From what I'm reading above it sounds like a fine grit stone (10000 + or a J-nat) might be better to use then a strop?

Question if you want to play " old school barber" and use a strap hanging strop is there one kind of razor better suited for this then another? From what I'm reading above one would not want to use a Japanese style razor on a hanging strop?
 
Both kind of strops work very well. Imho it is just a matter of preference. A paddle strop might be better for a beginner, because you can't round the edge but in the end it's up to you.
 
Chef Niloc said:
Are hanging strops "better" for razors then mounted ones, or is it just a preference? From what I'm reading above it sounds like a fine grit stone (10000 + or a J-nat) might be better to use then a strop?

Question if you want to play " old school barber" and use a strap hanging strop is there one kind of razor better suited for this then another? From what I'm reading above one would not want to use a Japanese style razor on a hanging strop?
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Stefan, having much more experience with Japanese style razors (Kamisori), is probably the best source on this, but in the video I watched about Kamisori honing a loom strop was used. I use a paddle strop on mine. My hanging strops are used only on Western style (double bevel) razors.

So, if you are looking to play "Sweeney Todd", I'd say your best choice is a Western style razor.

Rick
 
Pensacola Tiger said:
Stefan, having much more experience with Japanese style razors (Kamisori), is probably the best source on this, but in the video I watched about Kamisori honing a loom strop was used. I use a paddle strop on mine. My hanging strops are used only on Western style (double bevel) razors.

So, if you are looking to play "Sweeney Todd", I'd say your best choice is a Western style razor.

Rick
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I too like paddle strops better for kamisori, but hanging strop works too.
 
Chef Niloc said:
From what I'm reading above it sounds like a fine grit stone (10000 + or a J-nat) might be better to use then a strop?
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Stones for razors is a whole new can of worms really, it is a lot about personal preference.
Technically 8k will give you a very nice edge that after CrO or diamond spray and some stropping will be a very comfortable edge to shave off. Now if you want to go all the way then you have to go 10-12k or even 16k on synthetic and move on to a natural such as a very hard Jnat or an Escher/thuringian. Some people like the results off coticule but I personally find them to be prepolishers for razors.
 
mainaman said:
Stones for razors is a whole new can of worms really, it is a lot about personal preference.
Technically 8k will give you a very nice edge that after CrO or diamond spray and some stropping will be a very comfortable edge to shave off. Now if you want to go all the way then you have to go 10-12k or even 16k on synthetic and move on to a natural such as a very hard Jnat or an Escher/thuringian. Some people like the results off coticule but I personally find them to be prepolishers for razors.
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I think I got some stones that would do any razor justice, but I got a nice strop on the way. But no razor...see some of Butch's out there for sale, one Hoss that I found out there too. Was hopping Bill had a sheephorn one for the show but no luck.
Any other ideas for razors? I only buy custom blades
 
Chef Niloc said:
I think I got some stones that would do any razor justice, but I got a nice strop on the way. But no razor...see some of Butch's out there for sale, one Hoss that I found out there too. Was hopping Bill had a sheephorn one for the show but no luck.
Any other ideas for razors? I only buy custom blades
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Tim Zowada - http://www.tzknives.com/Razors.html
- http://www.classicshaving.com/Zowada_Straight_Razors.html

Robert Williams - http://customstraightrazors.com/wordpress/hurricane-irene-3/

Charlie Lewis - http://www.lewisrazors.com/#/31-blog/?link=354-washer-making-video/
- http://www.straightrazordesigns.com/charlie-lewis-razors/in-stock-customs

Mastro Livi - http://www.straightrazordesigns.com/the-custom-straight-razor-shop/mastro-livi-razors

Max Sprecher - http://www.madaspenhome.com/straightrazors/straight_razors_shaving_honing_sharpening.html

Rick
 
Chef Niloc said:
I think I got some stones that would do any razor justice, but I got a nice strop on the way. But no razor...see some of Butch's out there for sale, one Hoss that I found out there too. Was hopping Bill had a sheephorn one for the show but no luck.
Any other ideas for razors? I only buy custom blades
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Usually knife stones are prepolishers for razors. Custom blades as the posted above can be had from many makers now, but there are some vintage production blades such as Filarmonica, Puma, and Bocker and a few others that are top top notch.
 
Pensacola Tiger said:
Tim Zowada - http://www.tzknives.com/Razors.html
- http://www.classicshaving.com/Zowada_Straight_Razors.html

Robert Williams - http://customstraightrazors.com/wordpress/hurricane-irene-3/

Charlie Lewis - http://www.lewisrazors.com/#/31-blog/?link=354-washer-making-video/
- http://www.straightrazordesigns.com/charlie-lewis-razors/in-stock-customs

Mastro Livi - http://www.straightrazordesigns.com/the-custom-straight-razor-shop/mastro-livi-razors

Max Sprecher - http://www.madaspenhome.com/straightrazors/straight_razors_shaving_honing_sharpening.html

Rick
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I like one of the mastro livi, his stuffs good? I like the zowada's but I'm looking for something I can buy now, not wait god knows how long for.

mainaman said:
Usually knife stones are prepolishers for razors.
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I have a few that I think would be fine enough for razors, this one comes to mind.

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Colin,

Livi is very good, but the fit and finish on the one I have is just not in the same class as the other razors I have from Butch, Robert Williams, Charlie Lewis or Tim Zowada. It is a great shaver, though. It is one of 30 that were made for SRP, so perhaps it just isn't up to the same level as his damascus razors.

You could post a WTB at SRP and see if anyone has a Zowada they want to sell.

If you want a razor now, without waiting, I'd say get one of Butch's from Classic Shaving. They aren't damascus, though, if that's important.

Rick

Chef Niloc said:
I like one of the mastro livi, his stuffs good? I like the zowada's but I'm looking for something I can buy now, not wait god knows how long for.
Click to expand...
 
The Zowada made from "Michi-gane" is hands down the coolest razor I've seen. Lake Superior beach sand! Maple scales. Amazing. I wish I had a few grand to blow on a razor.
 
Livi made a few batches with AS steel from Takeda, the early ones in damascus. Hands down the only razors I would buy from Livi, just because I liked the cross connection. But Livi makes outstanding razors if you can afford them.

I just love the older pre 1850's razors, the vintage feel and lines just seemed to go away soon as you get to the 1900's, almost like every one of them was a custom made razor. Every time I came up with an idea for a custom made razor by one of the guys linked earlier... I'd find one made back in the day and I would just try and find it for sale. So I gave up on getting a custom made razor. Not that there is anything wrong with them, I just like the vintage ones better at this time.
 
Being new I will likely just work this out with Butch, can't go wrong that way.
 
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