To skim or not to skim (chicken stock / broth / soup)
- Thread starter Jovidah
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I use a pressure cooker. Raw chicken - or whatever - is put into fresh water, brought to a simmer; take off the heat, wash the carcass, wash the pot, new water and start again. Bring to full pressure, 2 hours, let cool before releasing the pressure. Clear fragrant stock.
I make a brown chicken stock with roast chicken wings, as above but skip the initial blanching, which removes proteins loose fats and blood from the carcass.
Alternatively, I cook a stock @ 90 C for 12 hours, not skimming, fat forms a thin seal on the surface - deeper flavour (more Maillard effect), less fragrant.
1 kg meat/bones : 2 kg water
I make a brown chicken stock with roast chicken wings, as above but skip the initial blanching, which removes proteins loose fats and blood from the carcass.
Alternatively, I cook a stock @ 90 C for 12 hours, not skimming, fat forms a thin seal on the surface - deeper flavour (more Maillard effect), less fragrant.
1 kg meat/bones : 2 kg water
Jovidah
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In my (limited, amateur) experience I found that I get away without skimming - and still have fairly clear stock, but it might be because of the combination of:
-Rather low temperature... I actually measured the other day and when I have it really low it's like 75-80 degrees. Potentially too low for maximum extraction?
-The way I filter it afterwards. I line a normal sieve with a hairnet to pretty much get everything remotely solid out of it. I guess this also takes out anything that would normally be skimmed out?
I'm wondering about one thing though... in the past I've had a few occasions where my stock went bitter. Supposedly this was because I left it for too long, but is it possible that this could have been prevented by skimming?
I'm also intrigued by the idea of using a pressure cooker... saw the suggestion before from Heston Blumenthal a few years ago but I can't really justify getting a pressure cooker just for stock.
-Rather low temperature... I actually measured the other day and when I have it really low it's like 75-80 degrees. Potentially too low for maximum extraction?
-The way I filter it afterwards. I line a normal sieve with a hairnet to pretty much get everything remotely solid out of it. I guess this also takes out anything that would normally be skimmed out?
I'm wondering about one thing though... in the past I've had a few occasions where my stock went bitter. Supposedly this was because I left it for too long, but is it possible that this could have been prevented by skimming?
I'm also intrigued by the idea of using a pressure cooker... saw the suggestion before from Heston Blumenthal a few years ago but I can't really justify getting a pressure cooker just for stock.
ThirdJewel
Orca ninjas go Rambo
Does it count as skimming if I preboil the meat/bones to release the scum, pour out all the liquids, rinse the meat/bones, and then put the meat/bones back into the pot with fresh water?
unless your pro kitchen
As for low temp, shouldn't be a problem. Just needs more time. Stock making in essence equalising the distribution of flavour molecules between all ingredients, including the water.
Never heard of bitterness due to leaving the stock too long - my experience is that the flavours flatten out and the aromas are lost - there are a limited number of flavour molecules.
As for low temp, shouldn't be a problem. Just needs more time. Stock making in essence equalising the distribution of flavour molecules between all ingredients, including the water.
75-80 Celsius is just warm enough for collagen to melt, but it won’t happen fast, so as long as you let it cook extra long, it should be fine.
The only time I’ve had stock go bitter was when I didn’t cool it quickly enough and it spent too much time above 60C (140F).
If I see it I skim it. Mostly everyday stocks are made in a pressure cooker, but something like bollito misto I do conventionally and skim like mad.
I also always separate out the fat (refrigerate overnight, toss the fat cap) and figure that anything bad from the scum would float up to the top and get tossed with the fat.
I also always separate out the fat (refrigerate overnight, toss the fat cap) and figure that anything bad from the scum would float up to the top and get tossed with the fat.
A pressure cooker just for stock is worth it.
I have a 10 liter zavor that wasn’t too expensive and a pair of tall plastic containers that turn the process into a breeze. I cook the stock, fill the tall container, refrigerate overnight and pull off the fat the next day. I have 250 ml containers always full of frozen stock, the whole thing takes almost no effort, I probably do this 2-3 times a month. I can make a pretty good soup in half an hour on a moment’s notice.
I figure these “free” soup dinners paid for the pressure cooker after about the sixth time I did it.
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I'm curious why restaurants don't use pressure cookers for stock. Is it the bulk of the appliance?
Probably more of a volume thing.
It can be set to the side while working on other stuff. Generally some prep cook handles that.
Yeah, they are way too small.
Edit: Meaning the yield is too small for the size. Side note, I always laughed/empathized during those cooking shows when the professional chefs were struggling with the pressure cookers because they had obviously little to no exposure to them. I never saw them in a kitchen myself.
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I get that. Does the final product turn out better when prepared in bigger batches? Yes, I chuckled at those pressure cooker scenes, too.
I personally have found slow-simmered stock that I make in large batches to be superior to pressure-cooker stock. The slow cooked variety just seems to have more depth of flavor and a better mouthfeel. Pressure cooker stock is still infinitely better than store-bought, however. Just my opinion.
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It makes sense to me that it would, reducing gently over a long time. I can't say I make big batches often enough to tell, but the pressure cooker variety is so good, comes out so clear, and is so easy, I can't say I'm likely to try. For a home cook, making 2-4qts of stock keeps me going long enough to roast another chicken or two...
There’s a point where the flavor doesn’t get better and it can get worse for some things. My general guidelines are 30-40 minutes for veg stock, 1 1/2 for fish/shellfish, 4 hours for chicken and 10 or 12 for beef.
For sure, bigger the bones, longer the simmer. Turkey I let it go 6-8 hours if not using pressure.
For shrimp ATK did a test and found that the optimal time for shrimp stock (shells only) is 10 minutes. Beyond that the shrimpy flavor gets muted.
Oh yeah, that’s a good point about shrimp. Haven’t made stock with them in ages.
It is also fine to strain and reduce most stocks beyond the timeframes above.
Jovidah
I'll make you a sponsor offer you can't refuse...
Perhaps of use to others. The way I usually strain my stocks and fats is by putting one of those disposable hair nets in a strainer. The right ones have a really thin yet very tight weave that catches just about anything, and they cost virtually nothing. Works with warm stuff though, you only have to watch out with fats since if they're to warm they can melt.
Works really well for filtering frying fats as well.
Works really well for filtering frying fats as well.
