Understanding Honyaki

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Interesting thread. Lots of interesting facts, view, insights and beliefs. Being me, I am somewhat excluded from taking part as I fear I would be breaking the gudlines. I will say this however:

The science behind the making of a honyaki is out there and in plain view. Those who contrive to brave this huge mass of information and knowledge will soon find it is a bottomless pit and will take several years of university to even begin to comprehend. This is not to say that there are no simplified explanations out there - and very good ones too. However, there is a big difference between understanding the science and application of it in the arts. It is one thing to be a maker of honyaki, and judging a honyaki from a standpoint of the experience gained in making them, and being a user of honyaki and judging them from a standpoint of the experience gained in using them. Both experiences refer to the same group of objects - but they are very different as far as approach is concerned. I am not a Cheff. I do cook my own food - but I fear my knife skills leave a lot to be desired in terms of kitchen work. As a maker of Honyaki I can say the following:

Honyaki knives are cnsiderably harder to make - mainly because of the reasons stated earlier. Oil quenched honyaki are different than water quenched honyaki. This is not to say one is harder than the other. The difference rests with the nature of the steels used in each of the quenching mediums. While water quenching is as a rule more prone to warping than oil quenching, oil quenching - especially certain steels that are a bit air hardening, allows for multiple quenches. While most of the crystals that grow while heating the steel retain their structure, some reverse back into nothingness. And so, while doing multiple quenches the steel structure is further refined - IF DONE PROPERLY. This kind of multi quench process will not only yield more refined steel - it will also yield multiple hamon lines - not always visible to the naked eye, and yet - still there. While hamon lines are a testament to fine craftsmanship and differential heat treating, I have seen many examples of blades that have been perfectly heat treated deferentially - but did not show a very accented hamon. And this is where application of science to the arts ends. At a certain point, knife making - especially honyaki knives - becomes a dark art. It is reliant on the experience, intuition, and knowledge of the craftsman. In most cases, the experience can be conveyed in words - but many times it cannot be explained to the uninitiated simply because they have not spent enough time staring into hot metal and flames and will not realize what they are looking at - even if shown. Not at first anyhow. In other words, while it is perfectly possible to explain swiming using nothing but words - chances are that most people who attempt to learn swiming this way will not do very well the first time they attempt to jump into a pool of water.
 
My (very basic) understanding it is harder to make a hamon on blue steel and it is often not as impressive. Very happy to have my knowledge refined here by someone who knows.

Accentuating a hamon line is not just an outcome of the heat treating. Some steels, as you note, are less cooperative in displaying a hamon line than others. One way to accentuate a hamon line - and this is true for all deferentially heat treated carbon steel honyaki is boiling vinegar etching the entire blade after it has been completely finished on stones - and then touching it up again on a finisher. The hamon line designates the boundary between harder and softer portions of the blade. Anything above the hamon line will usually etch differently than anything bellow the hamon line. So, steels that dont "like to display a clear hamon line" can sometime be helped along a bit in this way. At the end of the day though....it's not about the hamon's accent I think - it's about the overall performance of the honyaki - dont you agree?
 
My (very basic) understanding it is harder to make a hamon on blue steel and it is often not as impressive. Very happy to have my knowledge refined here by someone who knows.

Also I think you will find that life was close to the mark.. my understanding is that blue steel is more prone to warping and cracking during quenching hence it being a more expensive material. That is of course on top of traditionally having a softet hamon line. Especially if it is a mizu honyaki
 
Abura (sekiyu) Honyaki are just as likely to warp and just as tricky to make as Mizu honyaki. Certainly I would not consider one better than the other by any stretch. Im not in the habit of putting one steel in contest with another - it is a practice in futility and does not further any kind of insight regarding either steels in question (IMHO). There are many different kinds of steel alloys and they all have pros and cons all on their own. As far as kitchen knives go I venture to say that a 64 HRC Honyaki (Abura OR Mizu) is about as hard as it gets (or should go anyhow) - and even if it can go higher than that it probably doesn't make for a very fun knife to maintain or work with. But to each their own I guess.
 
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BTW, can/do smiths make a smaller blade (or two :) out of a large honyaki blade that blew in half during quenching, or does the fact it blew already show it was f....ed steel in the first place?

They will always try to salvage... a shorter knife ..depending where the crack line, size of crack. Even for Sai Mai knives.. makes sense...

RGDS z
 
I'm interested as to why people buy honyakis.

Is it because of:

1) The increased hardness (but then why not just buy a harder steel?).
2) The beauty of the blade.
3) The fact that it's made by an artisan who really knows their stuff and loves their work. So all of the other aspects of the blade should be great too.
4) The fact that the artisan has poured his (I assume there aren't many ladies making honyakis- apologies if I'm wrong) heart and soul into making the blade.
5) The rarity/ exclusivity.
6) Thy mystique of honyakis.
7) The fact that the blade you have is one out of 2 or 3 or more that actually made it without pinging when being quenched.
8) Some other reason.

I guess for me it's mainly 2,3,4 and 7, with a little bit of 5 and 6 mixed in.

Interested to hear your thoughts.

as for me... its going to be harder to come by and its a testament of the man's skill ....by my most recent count... there shld be about 10 masters ( pounding steel for more than 40 years in Sakai whose honyakis are sought after and I think it wld be generous to say that abt 5 are actively making.... for economic reasons or health reasons and some hv recently passed or taken to Association responsibilities..

So it will be harder to come by and comparing to Western custom knives... its a good price and I got to give it to the guy who is still pounding steel at that age.. mid 60s to 70.

Rgd
 
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