(Updated) Quick Report: Shapton Glass 500 DT

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Can’t do it.... can’t... do... it...

Can’t order a 5mm coarse stone. Even if SG220 is 2$ less than SP220 where I’m looking.

It would basically take a few persons saying: I’ve tested them side by side with all sorts of repair and thinning madman job and they ended up lasting about as long.

Then proof... 🤔

just get either the 3k or 4k and see if you like it. that way you haven't bought 3 stones you might not like.
imo. stones dont have very good resale value. and then its shipping which is not exactly cheap today unless you run a company and have a good contract.

yeah get 1 single stone. thats my recommendation at least.
 
None amounts to free shipping. 😜 Liable to pay 15-20 for it - why not just buy that second stone. I sold a few of these too. At a loss obviously, but not as much as owning them and not using them.
 
they generally try to pull everything towards mirror in my experience.
i guess you could pull off some haze if you tried though.
Here is a link to someone getting some (really nice in my opinion) haze/kasumi with the Shapton Glass stones:
 
Yep but each stone is about 10$ more than Paul’s finest or worse. 😜 Or that’s Fendrihan. Or both. I stopped going back...
 
I am coming back round to Shapton glass my two favourite stones as far as synthetics are concerned are these & Nubatamas but since I sharpen in restaurant kitchens cutting down on weight is important & I can buy Shapton Glass without paying shipping plus been thin they are relatively lightweight I find Naniwa that I can get wear quickly so in terms of weight & price Shapton Glass are good plus they are faster than Naniwa comparable with the platinum Naniwas. I am open to trying other stones but UK is not the best place to be for buying stones & since I sharpen professionally speed -price- longevity & weight are things I consider I am open to suggestions if anyone has any to add but so far the contest is between Shapton Glass & Nubatama Platinum I also use about 6 or 7 different natural stones plus one Belgium Blue that I use on French or European Carbon steel the Japanese Natural stones are for Japanese Carbon steel.
 
I am coming back round to Shapton glass my two favourite stones as far as synthetics are concerned are these & Nubatamas but since I sharpen in restaurant kitchens cutting down on weight is important & I can buy Shapton Glass without paying shipping plus been thin they are relatively lightweight I find Naniwa that I can get wear quickly so in terms of weight & price Shapton Glass are good plus they are faster than Naniwa comparable with the platinum Naniwas. I am open to trying other stones but UK is not the best place to be for buying stones & since I sharpen professionally speed -price- longevity & weight are things I consider I am open to suggestions if anyone has any to add but so far the contest is between Shapton Glass & Nubatama Platinum I also use about 6 or 7 different natural stones plus one Belgium Blue that I use on French or European Carbon steel the Japanese Natural stones are for Japanese Carbon steel.

Don’t think anybody would have much to argue about a SG kit on the go - or even stationary for that matter. The smaller Cerax are quite inexpensive and quite light, but also quite the messy dishy kit so on the go wouldn’t be my first choice. Possibly some SPs could mix in though. In all cases - it’s what you can do that matters, stone is but a tool.
 
Don’t think anybody would have much to argue about a SG kit on the go - or even stationary for that matter. The smaller Cerax are quite inexpensive and quite light, but also quite the messy dishy kit so on the go wouldn’t be my first choice. Possibly some SPs could mix in though. In all cases - it’s what you can do that matters, stone is but a tool.
Absolutely so many think the stone makes the sharpener whilst the skills of the sharpener brings out the virtues of the stone as you said some SPs probably would be worth considering when flattening wide bevels; as a sharpener I continue to evolve & will treasure evolution so I do not like to become set in any pattern since things change which is often why I do not like to teach people since all blades & stones teach. I often think as well meaning people are about sharing their techniques it can shut spontaneous learning & as for stones I am not in a position to test all makes of stones but to date Shapton & Nubatameas work for me as far as synthetics are concerned.
 
(Also updated in the original post)

Edit: Follow-up

Okay so a bit of an update to this review, looking for some “long-term” appreciation of the stone. Indeed, I got to use quite a lot of it in various projects since my initial report:
  • Full Kasumi + relief beveling + initial sharpening Victorinox Chef (200mm)
  • Half Kasumi + relief beveling + initial sharpening Victorinox Santoku
  • Full Kasumi + edge convexing + initial sharpening Konosuke HD2 210mm
Through all of this, I did not pay the particular focus I usually do for stone preservation. I did loosely use the entire surface, but did not rotate 180* as often as I’d usually do: in the case of the Santoku half Kasumi, not at all IIRC; perhaps just one time when going full Kasumi on both others.

I also used the Atoma to flatten the stone EVERY time it was used for each job it was used - so three times per knives = 9 flattenings. That’s not counting some slurry raising too.

In sharpening I began to “verify” (I didn’t doubt it from stuff KKFers have been saying) the allowance of the stone to jump grits.

The knives: Victorinox Chef finished Imanishi 1.2K for the Kasumi, SP2K for the final edge; Victorinox Santoku finished SP2K – Ouka for the half Kasumi, SP2K for the final edge; Konosuke HD2 finished Morihei 4K for the Kasumi (I’m starting to hate that stone), and Ouka for the edge.

IMG_9740.jpg


BTW: My Victos are sort of a compound of a very low angle relief bevel, and a barely higher convexing to edge (the latter what looks like the edge bevel from a distance, on the chef getting wider near the tip from a start with some extra low relief there), but the actual edge is kept soft western ballpark 20 dps ballpark. Also a closer look to how good SG500 - Imanishi 1.2K make of a polishing combo even with a first start Kasumi on soft SS.


IMG_9741.jpg




  • The jump SG500 – SP2K is just highly natural as expected. A real good combination for softer SS of decent quality.
  • The jump SG500 – Ouka is however much more interesting. Edge is crazy good out of that for the Kono semi-SS, and sharpening on the Ouka is always a pleasure. There’s somewhat of a strong feeling correlation there too that makes it all the more rewarding: SG500 is certainly harder and coarser, yet Ouka manages to “imitate” that coarseness pretty well with its grit-rich mud, while my usual drop of pressure when going on the finer stone compensates for its softness. Continuity is surprisingly satisfying. That combo is really great.
Next in line to try will be jumping to Morihei 4K. I’m intrigued by that jump. I’m not convinced it will be such a natural one. For one thing, Morihei 4K starts to seriously load when polishing anything below 2K or about. For another, it’s rather slow.

As for the toll all of that took on the SG500:

IMG_9736.jpg


1mm. That including also working on the Mabs with some maintenance thinning and kasumi and initial sharpening, with flattening at each step. It’s been thus about 15 times Atoma was brought to it for some rather serious amount of strokes, 3 knives thinned/polished in full, 1 in part, two of these soft SS with rather flat surface that incurred the most dishing/clogging, 5 sharpenings total. Used a bit more wisely, and on lesser areas to polish, and on more behaved steels, I can maintain that it is not a dishy stone, and that there’s a better lifespan to it that I would have expected.

As for my conclusions, working with the soft SS sure brought a different perspective to SG500 polishing behavior, but then again it would many a stone, and it still performed admirably well. However, Imanishi 1200 may not be as tidy as SG500, but it doesn’t differentiate so much between steels or size of contact area where behavior is concerned – one of the reasons why it works so well. Nor do Cerax 700 or Ouka, two stones that work tremendously well in polishing, close to that level of perfect feedback SG500 and Imanishi 1200 manage to bring to the pond. I’ll soon have a go with Shi.Han mono 52100 on the SG500 for a bit deeper comparative study.

For sharpening however, the more I use it the more I like it – and that is an understatement. I’m starting to consider it may be a bit faster than I primarily thought it was, but that is to a personal level of minute considerations, and does not affect the outcome of my bullet points. I guess sharpening would have got a bit of an uplift there with my actual state of mind, but then again, I still stand by the bullet points, and still consider NP400 to be the superior stone where sharpening is concerned. And more than ever, SG500 to be an unbeatable all-around one.
 
I wish I would have gotten this. I love the 500 but it does go quick. I have a hard time shopping for a jnat because I am very happy with my SG progression. I have yet to polish though.
 
It's not like you can't find the DT easily if ever you're inclined to. ;)

For JNats I'm trying very hard not to fall into that rabbit hole. I like trying different stones too much and it would properly ruin me.
 
i think the DT is one of few stones that provide more abrasion power than wear-ratio somehow. almost all other stones that remove metal fast also wear very fast. and some wear too fast for the material they remove. but this one is the other way around. sure its not super fast but a lot faster than most 1k stones.

also no need to flatten it all the time. just use the unworn parts until its flat-ish again,
 
i think the DT is one of few stones that provide more abrasion power than wear-ratio somehow. almost all other stones that remove metal fast also wear very fast. and some wear too fast for the material they remove. but this one is the other way around. sure its not super fast but a lot faster than most 1k stones.

also no need to flatten it all the time. just use the unworn parts until its flat-ish again,

As I said, I did these knives for tests. I didn’t focus on preserving flatness. I made a point of flattening it each step. I was mostly looking at wear as I did a lot of other things. None of the three knives really needed work you see. SG500 could still be 10mm thick... but then again I wouldn’t have used it much. These knives are just my go-to for testing stuff when I’m out of a project. 😜

I agree that the DT can do a lot of work for what little it sheds... and yet it sheds surprisingly plenty enough, doesn’t it? From its readiness to release abrasive you’d think it would wear down thrice as fast as a SP stone. I’ve been impressed with a few stones, but this one squarely just hits notes beyond my understanding of how it actually can do so much with so little compromises that I thought were unavoidable from experience with any other stone I tried.
 
For me, the SG 500 is as close to "the perfect stone" for how slow it dishes, speed of cutting and continually working without reconditioning.

It's pretty much the stone I compare all other ones too.
 
i would say the pro 1k is close in "performance" but its too close in grit to be really useful when you have the 500.
i never use the 500 then the sp1k in a progression. maybe the 2k pro though.

i also feel the glass 3k is quite similar to this one. but of course finer. yeah the 1/2k pro and the 3k glass those are similar but higher grit.
 
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